Mercruiser 228 TBIV WOT RPM won't go much beyond 3000 RPM

iron ranger

Cadet
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Jul 21, 2017
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7
Looking for suggestions here...
1984 sea ray 24' Sundancer with mercruiser 228 (305), quadrajet carb, thunderbolt IV ignition.

We had gone through the carb recently and adjusted the float level as it was a tad low. Test ran the rig and it was great. Throttled up great and up to around 30mph or so.

This past weekend we took her out for a fishing trip to Isle Royale on Lake Superior. We had 4 people on board as well as about 30 gallons of extra fuel. We started to make the crossing to the island and could not get up on plane. She would get to around 3000 rpm and pretty much hold there.

Went back to the marina to check out a few things such as fuel restriction in the anti siphon valve and that checked out fine. While we were messing with it, I also checked to see if she would throttle up to normal rpm in neutral. She would get up to the 5000 neighborhood just fine in neutral. We figured try leaving some weight at the dock and try it. Left two guys and a couple coolers and tried t out. I was able to get to about 3800 rpm and 22mph. We chalked it up to the extra fuel weight and went on our way since the weather was ok for a slow crossing. The crossing normally takes about 40 minutes and this time took 2 1/2 hours or so and burnt up about 3/4 tank of fuel that normally will use maybe 1/4.

While out there trolling, she was getting a bit hot so we pulled the thermostat (less than ideal but not much option). She would run at an ok temp then.
During the return crossing on Sunday we were able to get her up to around 3800 to 4000 and 22 mph or so but every once in a while she would start to lose power a bit and then gain again. This happened several times during the return crossing. Made it in about an hour with the spontaneous slow downs.

My thought is two things changed before returning.
1- thermostat removed and running cooler.
2- less weight as we used up the extra fuel.

Another thought I had, and I doubt it could be the issue but wondering if it could cause the lack of gaining rpm under load. I know there's a lead off the wiring harness by the ignition module or distributor that is intended to use as a ground to set base timing. Ok, so IF in theory somehow this lead got moved around and was making ground on the intake, etc, could this ground out cause the ignition not to advance the timing while under load and maybe at times would move so it wasn't making ground and then would allow it to advance, hence the fact that my return trip I was able to get up to around 4000 rpm?

Maybe 2 years ago we put in a new distributor, coil, ignition module, plugs, and wires but I am leaning toward the ignition module acting up since I have heard of guys having trouble with them and holding ice on them to temporarily clear the issue. Kind of matches the fact that we ran cooler on the return trip.

Any other thoughts or maybe ways I can try to confirm the ignition module is the problem? Also is there any good way to be sure the secondaries are opening at the right time on the quadrajet? That's also a thought I had since it seems like it should get a bit more power out of the hole to get up on plane.

Thanks for any input you guys might have. We have been fighting miscellaneous issues with this boat since we got it 5 years ago. Started that they swapped the block after freezing it and used an automotive delco distributor so that is why we had to change out everything to brand new thunderbolt components.

I know this is a long post, but I wanted to include as much info as I could right now.

Thanks for reading and any input you may have.
 

Scott Danforth

Grumpy Vintage Moderator still playing with boats
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Jul 23, 2011
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47,537
5000 in neutral only takes a few drops of gas

5000 under load takes 1/2 gallon of gas per minute

you have a fuel issue. motor is running out of gas.

put the thermostat back in, clean the crud out of your fuel system, which includes cleaning the carb (and running a wire thru every passage to ensure they are not plugged). ignition modules either work or they dont. they dont cut out at a given RPM.

see sentence #3 above

see link 15 http://forums.iboats.com/forum/engi...ion-for-diyers-an-work-safe-search-version-of
 

iron ranger

Cadet
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Jul 21, 2017
Messages
7
Thanks for the info. I didn't know if it was possible for the ignition module to cause that problem. I'll check out the fiel system and go from there.
One thing I don't believe I mentioned is that on our return trip it would randomly start to gain power and then suddenly start losing again. I don't recall the rpm offhand but I know we would go from 24 mph down to about 15mph and back up again. With no change to the throttle.
 

Rick Stephens

Admiral
Joined
Aug 13, 2013
Messages
6,118
Wow. I bet every time it randomly started losing power your stomach would clench wondering if this was the time it quit altogether. Stressful trip.

I think fuel is the problem as well. However, I would hook up a decent adjustable timing light and make sure I was getting appropriate advance. I would want to see it go from I think its 8? BTDC at idle to 24? or so at 1800 RPM. That at least will tell you the module is using the programmed curve and not malfunctioning. I agree that TBIV usually either works or doesn't, but my peace of mind would be satisfied checking it that way. Gives you a chance to verify timing while you're at it.
 

Scott Danforth

Grumpy Vintage Moderator still playing with boats
Staff member
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Jul 23, 2011
Messages
47,537
One thing I don't believe I mentioned is that on our return trip it would randomly start to gain power and then suddenly start losing again.

classic symptom of crud and water in your carburetor and fuel system.
 

harleyman1975

Ensign
Joined
May 12, 2003
Messages
959
I think I would start by changing the fuel separator and pour it into a jar and see if it separates then check fuel pressure and look inside carb float bowl is it clear or cloudy?
 

iron ranger

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Joined
Jul 21, 2017
Messages
7
Ayuh,.... Or a build up of sealife on the hull,... if a dock boat,.... it's gettin' that time of year,...

Unfortunately she lives her life on a trailer other than the occasional outing, so I can rule out any hull buildup anyway.
 

iron ranger

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Jul 21, 2017
Messages
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I've got to say, I've gotten a TON of information here over the last several years since we picked up this boat. When we got it, I knew absolutely nothing about mercruiser or any inboard for that matter. I have always had outboards. I've dealt with lots of issues in the last 5 years or so md a lot of my answers come from here (before I joined to post I just searched the posts)
 

iron ranger

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Joined
Jul 21, 2017
Messages
7
I checked timing and it's dialed in at 8? BDTC. I don't have an advance timing light at the moment to check that yet. I can see when I raise rpm that it is definitely advancing. Just no way to know exactly how much advance yet. Pulled the fuel/water separator and dumped it into a glass jar. It's sitting now but so far no obvious desperation or gunk. When looking into the filter, it doesn't look bad at all. I'm not sure if you can even tell by looking at it though. Just sent someone for a new filter now. I didn't have the number on hand when I was in town.
 

wahlejim

Master Chief Petty Officer
Joined
Jul 23, 2015
Messages
884
Also check the filter inline by the carb. I have the same engine you do and just ran into that situation. That filter was plugged up with some white crud/crystal formations. I have the exterior filter as well. I have come to the conclusion that it formed over the winter while sitting as the pieces were way too large to make it past the canister. I am blaming ethanol. You will actually have to pull the filter from the line as the fuel is filtered from the inside out. Was the boat sitting fro awhile between uses?

And FYI, I am starting to agree with Bondo here, a lot of additives are just snake oil. I used fuel treatment for storage for the 6 month Wisconsin hibernation, still didn't make a difference.
 

iron ranger

Cadet
Joined
Jul 21, 2017
Messages
7
Also check the filter inline by the carb. I have the same engine you do and just ran into that situation. That filter was plugged up with some white crud/crystal formations. I have the exterior filter as well. I have come to the conclusion that it formed over the winter while sitting as the pieces were way too large to make it past the canister. I am blaming ethanol. You will actually have to pull the filter from the line as the fuel is filtered from the inside out.

And FYI, I am starting to agree with Bondo here, a lot of additives are just snake oil. I used fuel treatment for storage for the 6 month Wisconsin hibernation, still didn't make a difference.


The boat sits a lot. Only used a few times each summer. I had read a lot of guys will remove the filter at the carb since it's already filtered anyway. I did that to remove that possibility. Gas in the bowl looks clear. Dumped gas from the filter into a jar and it was also clear but replaced main filter. Just picked up a new anti-siphon valve too. The new one I can blow through a bit but the old one I feel like I'll bust an artery trying to blow through it. Hoping that was the issue. May be testing it on the water tonight after work if rain holds out.
 
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