"New to me" 3.0/Alpha One on Maxum 18

interalian

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Neighbor picked this 18' Maxum up for a song. Hadn't run in a couple of years and apparently suffered a trim switch/relay malady so they removed the four hydraulic lines from the block at the bottom of the transom plate in order to manually lift the drive (grumble). The boat is really weathered but will buff up with some compound and elbow grease. The interior is another story, but his wife is a seamstress and has an industrial machine. Should be nice when it's done.

Disclosure: I'm an outboard guy, 2-smoke mostly, but I have vast experience with automotive work on top of the 2-smoke work.

Fired up the engine with no problems then did a compression test - 145-155/hole. Runs quiet and smooth. Will warm it up and change the oil today. Plugs were very worn, gap erosion to about 50 thou - I just gapped them down to 35 for test but will replace. Timing is on spec.

The trim lines - diagrams I found online show the line to the forward end of the rams goes to the forward ports on the block, and the lines that go to the stern end of the rams go to the rear ports on the block. Is this correct? Oil is 10W30 motor oil? Any wiring diagrams for the T/T?

The bellows under the driveshaft is torn - can it be run like that or is that a problem aside from noise? We'd like to get a lake test in ASAP and see if it needs anything else. Drive bellows is OK.

Here's a 'beauty shot' with my Rottie guarding the show. Miss Makani says 'hi!'.

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Bt Doctur

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Replacing all the bellows would be a better idea stand by for a wiring link
 

interalian

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Thanks! These just seem to be tables of contents though - more to follow?
 

interalian

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Got the trim pump working. Turned out the problem was just the fuse holder (corroded) and the PO never even checked it. I wasn't getting power to the motor but the relays were clicking, so I took the T/T relays out, took them apart and flipped the posts and copper disc to expose unused surfaces. Working fine now, just purging the air. Relay innards (yes, I'm a cheapo...).

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Neighbor ended up buying an exhaust bellows, so now we have the leg off to install it. Once the leg came off, we found water in the driveshaft bellows, but there are no defects in the bellows. We'll replace the shaft o-rings and the ring gasket and hope for the best.

Any tricks for filling the gear oil on these? Please bear with the dumb questions, as posted up top I'm a stern-drive noob.

Cheers from sunny Chestermere.
 

interalian

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The 6 nuts weren't tight - whats the torque spec? Sillycone on the gasket or no?
 

Rick Stephens

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Aug 13, 2013
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No Sillycone. Dry and very clean. Torque to 50, step up to to it so you don't pooch out the gasket along the sides.

Fill oil from bottom until it comes out the top. Insert top 'vent' plug, then remove pump from bottom and insert bottom plug. Has to be done with leg sitting vertical or it leaves air in the lower case - a no no.

I replaced the fuze and holder with a circuit breaker on my hydro pump.
 

interalian

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Thanks Rick! No sillycone it shall be (there is residue of it from a prior service).

Any sealant on the rubber ring aft of the CV joint? Or a smear of grease maybe?
 

interalian

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OK, all back together. New waterpump impeller kit, gear lube, exhaust bellows, oil change, spark plugs and a functioning trim/tilt system.

We'd originally tried to fit the new bellows without removing the drive unit. Well, no, that doesn't work. After the drive was off we still had trouble with it. Fashioned an installation tool using a couple of 1 foot lengths of 3/8" all-thread, four hex nuts and two fender washers. Buddy at the parts place had a good tip: once the outer end of the bellows is fitted, drill through the band clamp and into the housing - drive a short stainless screw in to keep the bellows from popping off.

Legless:

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Look out bellows:

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Boat and trailer for C$1000, C$250 in parts and 20 hours of labour. Off for a test run in the AM.
 

Rick Stephens

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That big square ring should be glued, using bellows cement or other rubber cement product, into the bell housing. That way it stays right where it is supposed to be during assembly.

Changing bellows isn't all that hard. Shouldn't need stuff to hold in place... well, the exhaust bellow can cause some verbal agonies.
 

interalian

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Verbal agonies indeed. The boat's new owner is an evangelical pastor and he dropped the f-bomb when it popped off the first time we thought we had it.

We plan to do more work on it this fall once 'hard water season' begins, and the drive will come off again for that (and to let the boat fit in the garage).

Thanks for your assistance!
 

Rick Stephens

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Check out the adults only section. It has directions to make a tool to help install that puppy. Spares bystander ears ;>)
 

interalian

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The expletive was before we figured the need to make a tool (described in post #9). I didn't find the 'adults only' section until later. Good info for next time, as well as the complete manuals on boatinfo.no. That said, bought the boat on Tuesday as a non-runner and on the water on Thursday. A win in my books.

Out of curiosity, what was the HP rating for a '99 3.0? We managed a 39mph GPS reading here today at 3500' elevation. No working tach. Turning a 21" wheel. Not quick out of the hole.
 

interalian

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Quick follow-on question: Trailer switch works to lift the leg, IN/DOWN works to lower, but UP/OUT doesn't work. Trim limit switch or wiring?

Also, the trim gauge jumps around, sometimes pegged UP and other times showing where trim is. Dirty wiring or bad sender?

Owner is now in another province, so I can't put my hands on the boat.
 

Rick Stephens

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Probably 135 hp at the prop. They improved the heads in '92 and changed from flywheel hp to prop hp.

Probably a bad trim sender.
 

Scott06

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Ricks right 135 hp. The speed you mention is right on the money for a 3.0 in that size boat. For holeshot go down to a 19" prop, or a 4 blade 18". I used a 18" 4 blade on my 3.0 for tubing and cruising, swapped to a 16" 4 blade for skiing, both Michigan Vortex, made a big difference
 

interalian

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Yeah, I'd suggested he go to a 19" prop since it needs replacing. The 21 is beat and has been straightened one too many times - showing some metal fatigue on the tips. I'm a bit leery of the change without a working tach though. I'd imagine the 21 was fitted to keep WOT RPMs within range.

They sent me a video this morning showing the trim "UP" switch is now working suddenly - must be a dirty connection. But they're happy, that's all that matters.

Thanks for the input - appreciate it.
 

Scott06

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Yeah best to have a working tach but almost can guarantee that a 3.0 in a 18 ft (assuming it has the 1.98 drive ratio) will not over rev with a 19" pitch. Willing to bet the 21" won't swing more than 4200 rpm
 

interalian

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We'll tackle the tach in a couple of weeks after vacations are done for July. I thought I saw 4500 was max RPMs on these?
 
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