Shift Cable Bell Housing Nut Frozen - Alpha 1 Gen 2

[Slap-Shot]

I'm doing some maintenance on my Alpha 1 Gen 2. I need to remove the shift cable to replace it; however, I cannot get the shift cable nut off so that I can remove the shift cable from the bell housing.



It is starting to strip, and I am not sure how to proceed. I noticed another user had a similar issue, but I did not want to resurrect that post to determine what their resolution was. Here is that post:

http://forums.iboats.com/forum/engi...tuck-won-t-unscrew-86-mercruiser-alpha1-gen-1

I've tried using a deep well 9/16" with a hammer drill, but as I stated above it is starting to round off. I've tried wd40, pb blaster, but nothing has helped. I'm going to try some Kroil Oil as well. I noticed in the above post they mention tapping and using an "easy out". I do not have a tap system, but I'd be willing to try an easy out if it works.

Can anyone confirm or offer me some suggestions? Thank you.
Jake

 

[Fishermark]

Is your deep well 9/16" socket a six point? Or 12 point? Be sure you are using a six point. Otherwise, if it rounds off you will need to resort to drilling - carefully! If you need to use a tap, it will probably be hard to find the appropriate straight tap - most of the ones you can find in the local hardware store will be tapered. I ended up ordering the correct tap online. Good luck!

 

[Bondo]

with a hammer drill,

Ayuh,.... Welcome Aboard,.... Are you crazy,..?? Use a 6 point socket, 'n a Ratchet,.....

 

[Slap-Shot]

Is your deep well 9/16" socket a six point? Or 12 point? Be sure you are using a six point. Otherwise, if it rounds off you will need to resort to drilling - carefully! If you need to use a tap, it will probably be hard to find the appropriate straight tap - most of the ones you can find in the local hardware store will be tapered. I ended up ordering the correct tap online. Good luck!

12 point. I started with a 6 point, but it appeared to start the rounding process so I switched to a 12 point. I just soaked the fitting with Kroil, and I'm going to let it soak for a few hours before I try it again. I do have access to an "easy out" system if worse comes to worse.

Do you know what size threads for the bell housing?

Thank you.
Jake

 

[Fishermark]

I guess I missed the hammer drill part!

 

[Slap-Shot]

Ayuh,.... Welcome Aboard,.... Are you crazy,..?? Use a 6 point socket, 'n a Ratchet,.....

Thanks Bondo,
I started with a 6 point and ratchet; however, that seemed to be the beginning of the stripping process. So I switched to a small impact driver with a hammer setting. I also went with a 12 point at that time because I am new to this.

 

[Fishermark]

12 point. I started with a 6 point, but it appeared to start the rounding process so I switched to a 12 point. I just soaked the fitting with Kroil, and I'm going to let it soak for a few hours before I try it again. I do have access to an "easy out" system if worse comes to worse.

Do you know what size threads for the bell housing?

Thank you.
Jake

I think you may have that backwards. On the left is the six point, on the right is a 12 point....

 

[Fishermark]

The post you reference above has the correct tap size - 1/4 - 18 NPSF

 

[Bondo]

Do you know what size threads for the bell housing?

Ayuh,.... 1/4" pipe, Straight thread, not 1/4" pipe, tapered thread,....

Try puttin' some heat into the brass piece, throw water on it to quench it, then the kroil,...
Also, cut the cable ahead of the housin', 'n squirt more kroil in from that side,....

A good fitting 6 point is waayyy better than any 12 point for this task,...

 

[Slap-Shot]

The post you reference above has the correct tap size - 1/4 - 18 NPSF

Good deal. I just wanted to verify so we use the correct tap if worse comes to worse.

 

[Slap-Shot]

Ayuh,.... 1/4" pipe, Straight thread, not 1/4" pipe, tapered thread,....

Try puttin' some heat into the brass piece, throw water on it to quench it, then the kroil,...
Also, cut the cable ahead of the housin', 'n squirt more kroil in from that side,....

A good fitting 6 point is waayyy better than any 12 point for this task,...

Great advice Bondo I will try the heat and water quench, then put more kroil on it in a few hours. Gonna let the kroil i put on it this morning soak a bit more. I was thinking about squirting some kroil from the other side as well so I will do that too.

Gonna use a 6 point from this point on, and I will post back my results ASAP.

Thank you again I appreciate the quick responses and advice from you guys!
Jake

 

[Bt Doctur]

1 use a 6 point socket
2 use a 6 point impact socket AND RATCHET
3 use a metric socket hammered on to the fitting
4 Drill out the bushing using a final drill size for 1/4 inch pipe thread
5 Retap using a 1/4 inch pipe STRAIGHT TAP

 

[Slap-Shot]

1 use a 6 point socket
2 use a 6 point impact socket AND RATCHET
3 use a metric socket hammered on to the fitting
4 Drill out the bushing using a final drill size for 1/4 inch pipe thread
5 Retap using a 1/4 inch pipe STRAIGHT TAP

Thank you for the advice. Worse came to worse so I removed the bell housing and cut the shift cable. I'm going to take the bell housing to my brother's machine shop, and let them try to remove the fitting with an easy out. I will stress to them that they need to use a 1/4 inch pipe straight tap. Thank you all for helping me. I will report back with my results this week.
Jake

 

[Bt Doctur]

No, the "easy break" will break. Use the drill and tap method

 

[Alumarine]

As bt doctor says, use the drill and tap method.
They will set it up on the drill press and be able to drill it out so just the brass theads are left in the housing.
It's easy then to get the rest out and then tap it.

 

[Slap-Shot]

As bt doctor says, use the drill and tap method.
They will set it up on the drill press and be able to drill it out so just the brass theads are left in the housing.
It's easy then to get the rest out and then tap it.

Yes and thank you. I did drop off the bell housing this afternoon at my brother's machine shop. I did instruct them to utilize a drill and tap method and to just tap out the remnants with a 1/4 pipe straight thread. Thank you guys for all the advice. I will keep you posted as soon as i can. Jake

 

[Bt Doctur]

The reason that way is recommended for the average owner/mechanic is because a easy-out is usually "hammered " in and not tapped in. This expands the stuck material even more . With a heavy hand the easy-out breaks and now your in worse trouble because of its hardness.
Another method it to drill a hole that you can tap in an allen key, either standard or metric size. Its not as brittle like a easy out, dosent expand the material either
and it works just as well

 

[Slap-Shot]

Great news gang my brother was able to utilize the drill and tap method to remove the fitting. He said there was no way that I was going to get that fitting out any other way. The brass had fused to the cast aluminum and the corrosion from the water made it worse. I asked him if Mercury would have anodized the bell housing before painting could that have prevented this issue, and he agreed it may have. I'm happy it's fixed. I'm now waiting for the new shift cable to arrive, and once that is here I will put it all back together.

Thank you all for giving me the advice necessary to correct this issue. I appreciate the fast responses and great detailed advice.
Jake

 

[Bondo]

I asked him if Mercury would have anodized the bell housing before painting could that have prevented this issue,

Ayuh,.... You should coat the threads with Perfect Seal to help combat that problem,....

No anodixin' done, paint won't stick to it,....

 

[Slap-Shot]

Ayuh,.... You should coat the threads with Perfect Seal to help combat that problem,....

No anodixin' done, paint won't stick to it,....

I was wondering if the paint they use would stick to anodizing. Thanks for the tip concerning the Perfect Seal.
Jake