Cannot go faster than 10 MPH, but runs fine in neutral.

q7myfirstboat

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May 31, 2016
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Going to do plugs as well while doing compression test if I don't have issues..... I have not done since ownership, but guy said they did new one before winterizing the previous year. So, that would be a minimum of 2 years on current plugs. From what I gathered, ac mr43lts is the appropriate plug, would you agree? Reading spark plug threads is 10X harder than the auto world.
 

alldodge

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MR43TLS is the correct plug, but I'm of the opinion that if they look good, reuse, if not change
 

q7myfirstboat

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May 31, 2016
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OH yea, only if needed, but want to make sure I know which ones.

Thanks a lot for all the replies and info. I will keep this thread updated as I get answers!
 

wahlejim

Master Chief Petty Officer
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Jul 23, 2015
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884
I am concerned about your milky oil in the bilge that you briefly mentioned. That combined with the overfilled oil. Usually that means that water is making its way into parts of your engine where it shouldn't be.

Before you get to far, you need to figure out where that milky oil came from.
 

q7myfirstboat

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May 31, 2016
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I am concerned about your milky oil in the bilge that you briefly mentioned. That combined with the overfilled oil. Usually that means that water is making its way into parts of your engine where it shouldn't be.

Before you get to far, you need to figure out where that milky oil came from.


The engine oil is clear as can be too. That boggled me as well, but never happened again. Prior to, I had cleaned everything with the hose, so not really sure where it originated from.

Another part I forgot to mention, not sure if it's normal or not, but the left manifold {while looking towards stern) was hot to the touch while the right was cool as the lake water.
 

alldodge

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The engine oil is clear as can be too. That boggled me as well, but never happened again. Prior to, I had cleaned everything with the hose, so not really sure where it originated from.

Another part I forgot to mention, not sure if it's normal or not, but the left manifold {while looking towards stern) was hot to the touch while the right was cool as the lake water.

One should be pretty warm and the other a bit warmer but not enough to burn. What your describing makes me think you have a restriction and it needs to be cleared up
 

q7myfirstboat

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May 31, 2016
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Not too hot to touch, but very hot compared to the other.. I pulled a lot of tubing off today and all looked good.

Today, I replaced separator...put carb back on after taking apart and cleaning..tightened distributor cap screw and drive belt was really loose, fixed that. Cranked right up and ran great... just running rich.... both risers felt normal today and hot water coming out both sides of exhaust.....

I will continue on with compression check next and go from there.

Want to clear up as much as I can before making lake trip that's 45 minutes one way :(

Side note... oil pressure steady at 40psi, about 175 degrees on water temp.
 

Bt Doctur

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Aug 29, 2004
Messages
19,111
Properly winterized engines usually come back to life normally, in most cases anyway. If the boat ran well the previous season and now it dosent , something happened or was overlooked at the end of the season. Was there any issue prior to winterization?
What does this mean? Last year, I put on a 4 blade 19 pitch and replaced the bearings with it.
Does the prop turn freely in neutral or do you need 2 hands to turn it?
I get the feeling your leaving something out from your story.
 

q7myfirstboat

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May 31, 2016
Messages
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Properly winterized engines usually come back to life normally, in most cases anyway. If the boat ran well the previous season and now it dosent , something happened or was overlooked at the end of the season. Was there any issue prior to winterization?
What does this mean? Last year, I put on a 4 blade 19 pitch and replaced the bearings with it.
Does the prop turn freely in neutral or do you need 2 hands to turn it?
I get the feeling your leaving something out from your story.


Here goes, may be long, but want to put it all out... and thanks for the responses. This is my first boat, and learning at a slow pace lol.

Bought it last year, it was sluggish, never really got past 35 MPH or 3800 RPM area if I remember right.... got on here did some research and a post. Put a 4 blade 19 pitch prop. got to 4k rpms roughly and I would say around 38 MPH which still seemed slowed, but I just figured it was old and tired. Had a few gauges replaced as well in the meantime.

Winterize procedure......sucked out oil, replaced and it's a little high........drained lube from lower unit and pumped back in from bottom port until reservoir was full using OE fluid....replaced separator and filled with seafoam.. (won't do that again) Filled gas tank with ethanol free gas and used blue stabil.


Bought several gallons of pink antifreeze... drained all ports on the block 2 on left and 2 on right and one in front center..... filled up bucket, used muffs and ran boat while slowly fogging the carb and pink was coming out the exhaust... fogged it a lot and once i was almost out of antifreeze, fogged it until it died, then parked it.

I read the procedure here on adults only and will not use muffs again :(

This year, pulled boat out, hooked up hose and it cranked right up. Ran really rough and rich. Let it run at idle for a while. I had to turn up the idle screw a hair cause it kept wanting to stall out..two days later, started it again before going to the lake and it ran better, but still had a slight roughness along with running rick... took to the lake and here we are on this post making way.


Prop spins all day in neutral with ease.....I did not replace bearing, I was mistaken. I bought prop/hub kit.
 
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1999 Searay 180BR

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May 23, 2006
Messages
43
Checking compression next and if it passes, and plugs look bad, I'll replace...

FYI, I once had similar issues...Boat ran fine one season...winterized and sat up all winter. Next season, boat cranked on 3rd turn of the key and ran like a top on the flusher. Got to the lake and the boat wouldn't get over 10-15 MPH...Like you, I expected the worst, hit the internet and spent hours checking all sorts of things like anti-siphon valves and fuel pumps and carbs....

Two of the 4 plugs were dead, but they "Looked Good" ....
 

q7myfirstboat

Seaman
Joined
May 31, 2016
Messages
64
FYI, I once had similar issues...Boat ran fine one season...winterized and sat up all winter. Next season, boat cranked on 3rd turn of the key and ran like a top on the flusher. Got to the lake and the boat wouldn't get over 10-15 MPH...Like you, I expected the worst, hit the internet and spent hours checking all sorts of things like anti-siphon valves and fuel pumps and carbs....

Two of the 4 plugs were dead, but they "Looked Good" ....
Good to know, I'll just replace plugs for the hell of it while checking compression.... Got them for 17 bucks at summit today....
 

q7myfirstboat

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May 31, 2016
Messages
64
Alright folks, what do you think? After last post, I decided to pull prop again and check everything I could..... this is rubber piece fairly big....assuming nothing should be in here, correct? Exhaust was restricted a lot I would suppose.
 
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q7myfirstboat

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alldodge

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Alright folks, what do you think? After last post, I decided to pull prop again and check everything I could..... this is rubber piece fairly big....assuming nothing should be in here, correct? Exhaust was restricted a lot I would suppose.

Correct, something overheated and melted. Since your boots are intact, I would say those are what's left of your exhaust flappers.
Shutters 807166A3 old.jpg

Shutter 807166A1 new.jpg

And a clogged exhaust can cause your issues
 

q7myfirstboat

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May 31, 2016
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So, replace, yes? Next, maybe this is why it's been slow since day one and previous owner overheated it, as the temp gauge was broke when I bought it :(
 
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