Cannot go faster than 10 MPH, but runs fine in neutral.

[q7myfirstboat]

Bought my first boat last year; 01 Tahoe Q7 With 5.0 Motor. Winterized properly and it ran fairly well, but never got about 35mph area. (I will save max speed for another day.) Just took it out and it will not go past 10 MPH. (Winterize procedure I did.....changed oil, drained block, filled with antifreeze, replaced water separator and filled with seafoam. Filled tank with stabilizer and ethanol free gas and fogged it a few minutes, then overloaded to stall it.)

After a lot of google... hub/prop/bearing? Neutral, it revs fine and motor sounds great. In gear, 10MPH max and 1900 RPMS... From 30% to WOT, nothing changes.
In reverse, it appears to work better, but almost sounds like a slipping clutch when I go faster...

In gear with motor off, I can spin prop easily and it clicks, but will not spin in reverse. In reverse, I can spin backwards with clicks, but not forward.

I have already removed carb and plan to rebuild it as well since some gas was on the manifold after sitting through the winter. I am going to replace water separator, plate and filter as well. (Hopefully this will contribute to my sluggish WOT.)

Last year, I put on a 4 blade 19 pitch and replaced the bearings with it, but what exactly would I replace now? (The whole kit you can purchase from Iboats.)

Also, when going in to gear, it clicks or tries to grab, so I have to push lever forward fairly far, then pull back to go slow? Does that make sense?

 

[alldodge]

replaced water separator and filled with seafoam

Have no idea why anyone would do this. Seafoam is not gas it's:
PALE OIL 40-60% - light weight machine oil
NAPTHA 25-35% - solvent
IPA 10-20% - Isopropyl Alcohol

So this was filled full and choked the motor down and it sat for the winter. This stuff was pulled in a high concentrated form thru your fuel pump and into the carb.

Yes, replace the filter and fill with gas. Then I would start with the list in the adults only section as to why you cannot reach WOT. In that list is the answer

I don't see any problem with the drive or engine coupler with what you have posted so far

 

[q7myfirstboat]

Thanks for the input, I watched a lot of videos on winterizing... you know how the internet goes. I try to keep common post to a minimum if possible. I actually filled with seafoam and ran it first for what that's worth while loading up the antifreeze and fogging it.

I have pulled all the gas related items off and will rebuild carb while I am at it. Is there any easy way to test my fuel pump?

Also, the only filter for the gas is one on carb and water separator... Suppose a inline from tank to separator wouldn't hurt since there's not one there.

 

[alldodge]

Right now I'm not so sure its the carb, it acts more like you have low compression. If fuel pressure was low it should bog and then backfire do to lack of fuel. If you were smelling burn rubber I would look at the coupler, but without that its try to figure out what happened?

Only way to check fuel pump is get a pressure gauge inline between pump and carb. Adding another filter won't help and make things worst. The canister filter is more then capable of filtering the fuel

 

[q7myfirstboat]

Ok, I am going to replace fuel separator and go from there. Compression test next......Is that normal? Run fine, winterize and boom? Reading adults only now. I see the summarize section.. Suppose that first would have prevented a wasted day at the lake haha.

 

[GA_Boater]

You don't need another fuel filter. You have two now with the carb filter and the water separator/filter. Too many filters make getting gas to carb even harder.

Also, when going in to gear, it clicks or tries to grab, so I have to push lever forward fairly far, then pull back to go slow? Does that make sense?

Not really. I think you need to adjust cables reading this from afar.

What 5.0 motor do you have. This thread needs to moved out of the prop section because the prop isn't causing the poor running.

But one prop question before moving - What prop bearing are you talking about, did you buy a prop and hub kit?

 

[q7myfirstboat]

Another Q while you're hot to respond.... The grabbing/clicking while going in f/r....having to push the lever further forward/backwards, then backing off to go wake zone speeds... is that a linkage issue or just something getting tired?

 

[alldodge]

Compression test next......Is that normal? Run fine, winterize and boom? .

Its not normal for a motor to do this after winterization, something happened. Something that could change my thoughts would be if you have a EFI motor and not a carb.

 

[alldodge]

Another Q while you're hot to respond.... The grabbing/clicking while going in f/r....having to push the lever further forward/backwards, then backing off to go wake zone speeds... is that a linkage issue or just something getting tired?

That would be a lower shift cable adjust or replacement

 

[q7myfirstboat]

You don't need another fuel filter. You have two now with the carb filter and the water separator/filter. Too many filters make getting gas to carb even harder.



Not really. I think you need to adjust cables reading this from afar.

What 5.0 motor do you have. This thread needs to moved out of the prop section because the prop isn't causing the poor running.

But one prop question before moving - What prop bearing are you talking about, did you buy a prop and hub kit?

5.0 Alpha 1 Mercruiser -

Here's what I purchased and installed.

http://boatpropellers.iboats.com/Me...143-19_Propeller/767/20507/?cart_id=522970473

 

[Sea Rider]

Is the new prop torqued right, probably not and slipping badly. Assume has factory specs, check.

Happy Boating

 

[GA_Boater]

This is in the Mercruiser section now.

No prop bearing, just a prop and hub kit.

Before getting too carried away finish the carb rebuild and replace the water separator/filter canister. Also replace and/or adjust the lower shift cable. Try the adjustment first.

 

[q7myfirstboat]

Ok, guys, thanks for all the input... I will finish reading up on the adults section. Do a lot of what's been discussed and check back in.

Is there any easy way to test my ongoing issues without going to the lake.

As far as torque on the prop... No, bought the wrench and twisted until the prop wrench was about to slip one turn.

 

[alldodge]

Is there any easy way to test my ongoing issues without going to the lake.
.

Yes, As for testing, many of those can be done off the water/ The final has to be done on the water

 

[tpenfield]

Wild guess . . . it may be ignition related. Not sure if your engine has the ICM , but if you post the serial number, then that will help.

 

[q7myfirstboat]

Wild guess . . . it may be ignition related. Not sure if your engine has the ICM , but if you post the serial number, then that will help.

I am checking out as much as I can before going out again.... checked distributor cap and 1 screw was completely loose. Pulled cap and all looks very good inside.

Another thing I forgot to mention.... after first few minutes yesterday, when I turned on bilge pump, it was milky.... checked it out and could hear water dripping fairly heavy, but could not see where at all.. milky like a headgasket in a car. Anyway, drained and never happened again...strange.

As far as number, I can't find it... looked on block and nothing

Breather states:
5.0 Mercury Mercruiser Thunderbolt Ignition ..alpha one... if this helps at all

While doing all my reading today, I have read where a few said oil pressure sensor activated due to too much oil and tapped out at 2k RPMS, which was my max as well. Well, I changed oil and winterized it. I checked today, somehow I am about 1.2" above the full line.....I'll do the obvious, but if that could be my problem, that would be awesome.

 

[alldodge]

While doing all my reading today, I have read where a few said oil pressure sensor activated due to too much oil and tapped out at 2k RPMS, which was my max as well. Well, I changed oil and winterized it. I checked today, somehow I am about 1.2" above the full line.....I'll do the obvious, but if that could be my problem, that would be awesome.

If your fuel pump is mounted on the block, the you might be leaking fuel into the block

 

[q7myfirstboat]

I think I overfilled it........ electric inline FP between separator and carb.

 

[R055]

I think I overfilled it........ electric inline FP between separator and carb.

How much quarts did you fill?

 

[Bt Doctur]

That motor should take about 5 Qts of oil , how much did you drain and how much did you put in?
Overfilling aerates the oil and you lose oil pressure and maybe some rpm with the crankshaft sloshing thru the oil.but it does not limit the rpm of the motor
The tag is just above the starter on the block