Rebuilt carb now confused lol need help

ilove2fixx

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hi guys ok I took out my 2 barrel carb off my merceuiser 2003 3.0l and rebuilt it.. pretty easy but I have couple questions and issues
The replacement accelerator pump is a little shorter than the original ?
And also want help with adjusting the links and rods.. the manual makes no sense ..
i measured from too rod to mounting surface of flame arrester about 29mm

here are some pics

also it seems like the bottom of the accelerator rod is broken off ? Or is that normal ? See last pic , bottom it look broken. Not fresh , like it's been broken for years.
 

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ilove2fixx

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This little part is broken on mine , and have been for a while just didn't notice until I took it apart to rebuild
 

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Fun Times

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The throttle lever part it appears you need should be item number 32, Part number 3302-810925, http://www.mercruiserparts.com/bam/s...30905/4893/110

^ Don't think you'll need the "cam" item # 22 but will mention it just in case.

Not sure if you'll need to know about the nut that holds the throttle cable or not but just in case have a look at this past topic too since he seems to have had the same issue as you, http://forums.iboats.com/forum/engin...er-3302-810928

Here's some photos of your carb part number that matches better used for references too, http://www.ebay.com/itm/2-Barrel-Mer...tYxAku&vxp=mtr

What number service manual are you using, 13 or 26?.... #13 might offer a few better tips for the rod placement over #26. both Mercarbs are under section 5B...There's some pretty important notes about the accelerator pump that you'll want to read/know about should you of missed it near the beginning of section 5B...Best to go through all the pages in case something was over looked.

Is the accelerator pump from an OEM or aftermarket repair kit? The spring number count and small metal ball is important too...So you might need to try another accelerator pump as maybe it's the wrong one altogether.
 
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ilove2fixx

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Thanks I'll go over the other manual and I was thinking of just drilling a hole through the lever and putting a piece of copper/aluminum and gold it down with a nut and bolt.. instead of wasting $80 and waiting a week .. I'll ask the seller if the little difference in the accelerator pump makes a diff .. I've seen many videos and aftermarket kits and they all have the same Blue accelerator pump like the one I got .. I just wanna put this thing back on and run her already lol
 

ilove2fixx

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Thing is I used the boat like 10 times last summer without that piece ??? That Pull off lever tab that's in last pic.. do I really need it??
 

ilove2fixx

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Yes I have seen his videos already.. but what I don't get is the broken tab on the bottom , is it really necessary? I ran the boat many times last year without it ??
 

ilove2fixx

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Some carbs don't have that little tab on the bottom lever ?? Like this one
 

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wrench 3

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I believe that tab is the choke unloader. It's used to open the choke a bit if the engine is flooded and you go to full throttle to start it.
 

ilove2fixx

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So really not necessary ? Maybe that's why it's been working fine for years without that ?
 

gm280

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lifesucks86, I looked closely at that carb in question, and honestly, it doesn't look like anything was broken off to me. But then I am not there to see it in person. But it looked too clean of a finish to merely be broken off. But what do I know. :noidea:
 

ilove2fixx

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Here's a close up.. it is broken I don't think it's a factory finish like that? I haven't seen a tab the same dimensions or look like mine, All the levers that I saw looked thinner or wat different , like on an angle ..

 

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ilove2fixx

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I put the carb back and I'm leaking from the fuel inlet hose brass nut area ?
I've already took it apart 3 times and I still leak ? I made sure there's a washer on the inside where the fuel filter is ..
i tightended the fuel line really good ..
 

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wrench 3

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If that's as far as the flair nut is screwing in, it doesn't look right. Can't really tell from the picture but is it possible that it's cross threaded.
 

ilove2fixx

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It's not it's as far as it goes I checked about 10 times..
i almost got it to not leak, but after cranking about 10 times she didn't start but the leak came back.. I took everything apart again inspected everythig
and all looks good? But the leak is from the brass threads area.. so maybe worn threads on the brass but or on the carb part ? How would I know ?
 

wrench 3

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If you get another flair nut you could see how far it will screw into the fuel inlet without the pipe. It should go in at least one extra thread. If it won't then the thread in the fuel inlet is damaged.
 

airshot

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Double up the gasket in that area and see if the leak stops. Threads may be bottoming out before gasket seats
 

ilove2fixx

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I fixed it.. a guy at a Classic hot rod shop used a Brass washer and she's not leaking no more.. She's running pretty good now to.. thanks guys !
 

km1125

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Didn't realize you had two threads on this issue. (no pun intended) Even Wrench3 could see those threads were not all the way in.

For future readers of this thread, here's my response to this fix:

Well, your boat and your rules I guess. Just hope you're not docked next to mine. For others: "Don't try this at home"!

The guy would of told me if it's bad idea.. he does build engines for a living , he has a huge shop with 10 garages and like 10 workers.. I think he knows his stuff .. he also says he does the same thing for break lines to.
Again, a CAR is much different than a BOAT. When you have a gas leak on a car, the worst thing that happens if you don't notice a leak that they just burn to the ground while you sit there on the shoulder and watch. They do not have enclosed compartments to collect fumes, so they can even leak a pretty good stream of gas right on the engine without being much of an issue (lots of cars have that problem and they're still driving around every day!)

The fact that he would even ADMIT to doing something like that on a brake like is --very-- scary. (OH, and don't buy a starter or alternator for you boat from this guy!)
lifesucks86;n10364873 I checked the brass nut it goes in almost the same amount as it did without the washer [/QUOTE said:
Yea.. that's part of the problem... you KNOW it wasn't going in all the way because it could not tighten the flare in the first place (just from your picture it was obvious to me). Therefore, there are LESS THREADS THAN DESIGNED holding that thing in place. On top of that, you know they've been compromised! Engineered systems ALWAYS have a safety margin built in. What you're doing is eliminating a portion of that, so who knows what could happen!
ive ran the engine for about 20 minutes not one drop.. also I'll put a Metal screw down clamp behind the brass nut on the line .. and that will ensure the nut never moves even a Milimeter



That nut may never move if the threads give way but it will still leak.
 
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