Water in ujoint bellows, but they're new!

wrench 3

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It's not uncommon to have to pull it in the last little bit. However, Always check to make sure that the shift mechanism is sliding together properly under the bell housing first.
 

smiles16

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Not gonna lie, I made that mistake to. Bumped the prop during the install, but that distance was more like 1".

So yes, definitely keep an eye on the shifter.
 

bspeth

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The big Oring could have gotten cut,just sayin.Ive done it a couple times.
 

Scott06

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Wrench has it, as long as the shift mechanism is sliding together not unusual to need a nudge to get the last bit in. I thought if the drive shaft has a lot of grease on it there is no where for the grease to go when it engages the coupler except down the splines of the shaft
 

smiles16

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That's kind of what I was thinking, squeezing the new oring on the way end and squishing all the extra grease out in the coupler.
 

smiles16

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Update!

Well boys I ran her last weekend and was able to pull the drive today.... Good news and Bad news.

Good news is, it ain't the bellows. They were nice and dry.

Bad news is, there was water in the shift cable region.

So, she has a new shift cable bushing and I verified the water inlet oring was in place. This must mean the water source is either from the shift cable or the outdrive gasket right?

I did notice the gasket was torn right by the shift valve area and that the stud came out instead of the bolt when removing (one of the six, and did this last time).

And yes, I use a new gasket every time I pull the drive as well as check alignment.

Unlike last time (used an electric impact to reinstall), I made sure to torque the six bolts to 50 ft-lbs per manual. By the way, drive slid all the way in with no issues this time.

So, unless you guys feel there is something I'm missing or anything otherwise, I think I will run this drive for the rest of the season.
 

wrench 3

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I don't know if it's enough to make a leak but you should get the nut off of that stud and Lock Tight the stud back into the housing. The nut end has a finer thread than the other on. With the same torque on it the courser thread will give you less clamping load than the fine one. Also that is a very thin piece of gasket running through there. So pay special attention to make sure it's lined up properly before you tighten the bolts
 

smiles16

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Wrench, I was thinking about that myself. For now I just drove it in and torqued it down, but now I am wondering if that stud is backwards now. I did notice there isn't the same amount of thread sticking out the top of that nut compared to the other 5.
 

wrench 3

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You shouldn't be able to screw the nut onto the wrong end of the stub. That's if it's the correct nut. If it's been in and out a few times the shoulder on the stud could be wearing itself into the housing. All the more reason to get it Lock Tighted back in.
 

Grub54891

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I'd just replace that stud with a new one, And replace all the nuts that hold the drive on, they do wear out and then they don't torque correctly. The one on the stud that came out could be compromised also.
 

smiles16

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I'll deal with the stud later on as that's an easy fix, but I'm confident I found where the leak is coming from. Just noticed the gasket is squeezing out from either side around the water inlet and shift cable area. I bought the oe gasket that supposedly covers MC-1, Alpha 1, and Alpha 1 G2. I guess it isn't properly aligned? I can see the red line from the outside
 

Grub54891

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Seeing the red from the outside, is from either overtightening, because of the nuts being wore out, or the surfaces are not flat.
 

superfets

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No Title

Took me about an hour by myself. The hardest part was getting the boat under the chain fall properly. Put it in forward and remove the drive. Then just follow the steps in the manual.

Cheers :thumb:
 

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Rick Stephens

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Aug 13, 2013
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I'll deal with the stud later on as that's an easy fix, but I'm confident I found where the leak is coming from. Just noticed the gasket is squeezing out from either side around the water inlet and shift cable area. I bought the oe gasket that supposedly covers MC-1, Alpha 1, and Alpha 1 G2. I guess it isn't properly aligned? I can see the red line from the outside

I have seen a lot of gaskets push out at the thin spot there. Make sure the surface is totally clean of oils and dry. Check flatness. NO SILICON. Any kind of gasket maker will act as a lubricant and the gasket will push out slicker n a seagull pooping on your deck railing. Take your time tightening up the nuts. You will get it to stay put.

Rick
 

smiles16

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Yeah I think I'll order some new hardware and take another stab at it. Thanks guys
 
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