Outdrive mystery continues ...

[zul]

The lower was changed one time after a hard strike last year. I'm beginning to think that I should have replaced the entire outdrive.

I do run wide open throttle occasionally for short periods but for long periods we cruse (3,000 rpm or 25mph) where the boat rides best.

We did the pressure test and it held for 10 days. Is there a way to open up the upper to inspect for damage? The boat has run smooth for 130 hours since the lower unit was changed. No strange noises or grinding sounds. But I am now beginning to think there is damage in the upper. And a leaky seal up in there.

So, if there is damage in the upper, will this be ruining my new lower? Would it be suicide to continue running this setup ... until 'something goes'??

I'm plan to purchase a new upper soon. It looks like $750. Better than chasing a mystery or making things worse down the road.

 

[thumpar]

Replacing the upper now won't fix the problem if it related to the lower going and contaminating the lube. What happens when a lower or upper go is that it can cause metal to be in the lube. Once you replace the bad half you then are running the same left over lube through both the new half and old half. At this point IF that was the case here replacing just the upper would still leave the lower that was run with that lube.

 

[achris]

How do you shift? Ease it in nice and slow, or just drop it in with a quick movement?

 

[zul]

We are careful to shift with confidence (my son and I are the ones to drive). No 'slow shifting' to grind 'er up.
I guess the next step is to drain, tear it down and see.

It is (of course) tempting to just go boating. It is also SO frustrating to not be able to figure it all out. Ergh.

I would like to think a new Upper fixes 'all' the problems. Is that fantasy or good reasoning?

 

[tank1949]

A small amount of water is getting into the gear lube, visible in the bottom / lowest corner of the Fill To resv.

I replaced the lower outdrive last year. Did the break in and replaced the gear lube as suggested.
I've been getting shavings on the plug every time I pull the plug.
Run the boat a few times and notice the small amount of discoloration in the bottom / lowest corner of the Fill To resv..
Drain gear lube again, notice some more fine metal shavings on the magnetic plug, fill with new gear lube.
New drain plug gasket. Plug back in.

I've done this a several times.

I made an air pressure tester (last year) and it held 8lbs of air for 10+ days.

Back to where I was on this one ... ??

Getting water in fill bottle?????? Perhaps moisture??????? How did you run pressure test? Did you plug fill line to housing from reservoir???

 

[achris]

Also test at very low pressure 2 or 3 psi.... Because of a seals' design it could hold at higher pressures and still leak in service. I had a fuel tank that was definitely leaking fuel. Pulled it out and put 5 psi in. Soapy water everywhere, no leaks. Reduced the pressure to just 1/2psi and bubbles for Africa!

I also saw someone recommend a vacuum test. Well worth doing. Most of the seals are set up 'back to back'. One seal to stop oil getting out (and a pressure test checks those ones) and the other seal to stop water getting in. You need to vacuum test to check those... If you've got a 'water getting in' problem, a pressure test is not going to find it. You need a vacuum test. Be aware that the shift shaft seal is only an oil seal, and will leak above about 10 inches (5 if the seal is old)... That's the other thing, units of measure. Pressure is in pounds per square inch, and vacuum is in inches of mercury (as in how high a vacuum will pull a column of liquid mercury)....

Chris.......

 

[zul]

Thanks to those that have read along with this long post. I guess I'm left with 3 options. Perhaps yall might vote and reason before I move ahead:

1. Run what I've got till she blows ($0 for now, $$$ Later)
2. Replace the Upper $800
3. Replace the entire outdrive $1,500

First, I should buy stock in Gear Lube.

 

[thumpar]

I would go with 1.

 

[flipbro]

Go with 1.

 

[achris]

Thanks to those that have read along with this long post. I guess I'm left with 3 options. Perhaps yall might vote and reason before I move ahead:

1. Run what I've got till she blows ($0 for now, $$$ Later)
2. Replace the Upper $800
3. Replace the entire outdrive $1,500

First, I should buy stock in Gear Lube.

Option 4. Investigate, find and fix the problem. (small $ now, $0 later)

I would pull the drive and drain it of oil. Then do a LOW pressure (2 or 3 psi) test, followed by a vacuum test at about 4" Hg.... If you don't find a problem with those, start looking around at the bell-housing oil feed and the hose connections at the back of the bell-housing and inner transom plate...

All it's going to cost you is time....

Chris.......

 

[flipbro]

Now that there's an option 4 I would go that way.

 

[zul]

Well, I just don't think I've got the skills to solve and remedy the current drive. I believe that the gears in the upper are causing the shavings. Now the discolouring makes me think the upper is starting to lock up. It's starting to make sense of the mystery.

So, I am planning to purchase a new upper OR an entire new outdrive. With 100 hours on this new lower and 4 gear lube replacements, I've found a full set of shavings on each plug.

I am tempted to purchase the upper, install and go boating for $745. Can anyone make reason to purchase the Upper or an entire new outdrive ($1495)?

 

[thumpar]

I wouldn't just purchase the upper. Either go boating or buy a whole drive. The lower has now been run with that upper. They share the same lube.