How to Repair Cool Fuel stud

[alldodge]

Doing some work and was reinstalling the bracket on the cool fuel module. Still using one finger to tighten and the stud snapped off. Tired of feeling like a pretzel, I took a pic and got out. Looking at the listing I don't see where the studs are part of.

http://www.mercruiserparts.com/bam/subassembly/31912/4854/100

Here is the image of the above listing



And here is the pic I took



It looks like its part of the Insulator box, but there isn't anything which shows the studs. So the question is has anyone had one of these apart to tell me how it can be repaired before I take it off and find out?

 

[Bt Doctur]

Looks like it in a plastic housing . Remove the coll fuel unit and get it on a bench. Get a Dremel
With a small disc cut it flat, then grind a slot for a screwdriver
With a small disc cut away some of the plastic housing, remove stud remains, install spacer with new stud.

 

[Fun Times]

Don't recall snapping one of those studs but I've had many of those studs just pull out of the insulator base while tightening the two nuts down. I was always able to just put the stud back in with some glue and not put the nut on as tight as one would like it even though with the way everything sets into place it almost holds it self in place with just one nut handling most of the holding power. Below you can see studs mounted in the box but can't find them in a parts diagram... Only the nut.
http://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_from...7685T&_sacat=0

Now for the interesting part that I don't know if this idea may work for you or not specially as for stud diameter but I'll through it out there for you AD just incase as it sort of seems like it might just work.:noidea:

While looking for the stud I ran across one place that called the nut where the stud would connect to a TILT PIN STUD. So I searched 11-29598 NUT, TILT PIN STUD Mercruiser and found where else the same nut was used and located part # 16-68925 STUD, TILT PIN that fits one example of many, A 1984 Mariner Outboard 7001204 CLAMP AND SWIVEL BRACKET.

While the stud 16-68925 is going to be longer, the nut is the exact same so maybe the stud diameter could be nearly enough the same to fit within the CF insulator box and all you'd have to do is cut the stud down to fit the length of the insulator box stud plastic port. If the diameter is somewhat close, just modify the box port to fit with some good glue. Just a guess is all should other repair ideas don't come easy parts wise. Good luck.:eagerness::encouragement:

http://stores.outboardparadise.com/1...lling-new-nos/

 

[alldodge]

Thanks guys, will get into it and see what I have to do. Probably should remove the unit to fix, but as we all know it is hard to get at anyway. Don't know why it snapped but as before looks like fatigue.

Probably should remove it but it is a real pain to get at, but hey its a boat

Least I have some time

 

[gm280]

AllDodge, do you think a heat gun would soften up the plastic enought to allow you to pull out the remaining part? :noidea: I certainly won't use a torch, but a heat gun could help. Then once you removed the broken off part, see if you can either buy another or even repair that one with some clever drilling and new bolt or even weld it up. You could even drill and rethread it with a smaler bolt. JMHO

 

[alldodge]

Its an idea, thanks. Going to have to get into it and figure something out

 

[GA_Boater]

Twisting studs off using a finger. Lay off the spinach when you put it together. :smile:

Often studs in plastic have a knurled end to seat and grip in plastic. Not knowing what kind of clearance is on the back side, it might be possible to drill through the stud and plastic, then use a long machine screw from the back and a nut on the front.

Just an idea.

 

[alldodge]

All good ideas, will take me a few days maybe to get back to it.

 

[Bondo]

Often studs in plastic have a knurled end to seat and grip in plastic. Not knowing what kind of clearance is on the back side, it might be possible to drill through the stud and plastic, then use a long machine screw from the back and a nut on the front.

Ayuh,.... Once ya get it apart, ya might be able to rebuild it with epoxy, like the 2-pt structural adhesive I find at Napa,...
For plastic bumpers I think, or on a '90s Ski-doo hood, that I used it on,...

 

[Bt Doctur]

Old School. remove the remains of the stud shorten the height of the plastic the thickness of the nut, drill thru and use a SS bolt and nut. This locks the bolt in place and assemble normally with a additional nut.

 

[Scott Danforth]

i hate plastic parts near an engine for this reason

you could pull the cover out and fabricate a replacement out of light gauge stainless sheet, line the inside with sound deadener and you have a better end result.

 

[alldodge]

The plastic box does next to nothing except a strain and slight vibration relief. I could get away with a good size tie rap to hold. Well get it fixed soon, was bush hogging all day yesterday, it was brier city. Maybe work on it today, its suppose to rain most the day

 

[alldodge]

Pulled it out, and it is a plastic box mounted to a 1/8 plate with 4 each 1/4 28 hex socket screws.





Used a cut off tool to cut it flush.



Drilled 7/32 hole and tapped for 1/4 28
Now to decide if I want to order a brass stud from McMaster 47 cents (with shipping probably $5 bucks), or use a stainless bolt or stud. My thought is if I use brass and epoxy in, and if there is another issue I can drill back out. If I use stainless, could go clean thru from the back side, then no need to a nut on top. There is no room for a nut. If SS used will also need to order but can probably get it from the hardware store

 

[alldodge]

Wound up using a SS bolt on my tapped hole from the top. Nut on one side and bolt on the other. All went back together fairly easy.

Last note for those who reinstall the fuel line in the pump which does not use threads, but only O-rings. The hose just slides in and then a special screw (item 9) that goes in between two brass side rings.

http://www.mercruiserparts.com/bam/subassembly/31912/4854/100

If you don't get it all the way in, the screw will go in, but will not be between the two sides. Then later the line will work its way out.



It doesn't take much to miss the slot. Once it's installed, I would suggest grabbing the fuel line and try hard to pull it out. Not so hard your going to break it, but do some real pulling and wiggling it can take it. Took a pic of it together but you can not make out the setting, and really don't want to crawl back in to get another.