Change to High Volume Oil Filtration

alldodge

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For those that remember or find my threads on my repower, please don't mention the builders name. This is just documenting my changes and things I found out on OSO and another member.

Had an oil leak on one of my hoses for my remote filter setup, between the cooler and manifold head unit, so started taking it apart. Found where a piece of 1/2 inch ID fuel line was used instead of oil lines. All other lines feeding everything were also 1/2 ID.

Oil line return.jpg

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Doing some research found that when using a high volume pump, you also need larger oil lines and different manifold. So another builder fixed we so AN-10 lines, fittings and manifold.

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You can see these ar much larger lines (AN-10 = 5/8). To use the new manifold I have to remove the center fitting on the block. Removing it was a real bear, next to no room and is a 1/2 hex bit. Wound up using a impact wrench set on max (around 500 ft lb) and still took some banging to break it loose.

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alldodge

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Managed to get it off

Photo1129.jpg

The manifold will use two 5/16 Hex head screws to secure. The output port is lined up with the outer hole next to the block. Two O-rings are used to seal it. My plan is to drill and tap for a temp sender on the input side of the remove filter housing. Will post more pics as progress goes
 

alldodge

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Got the manifold installed, only issue other then being hard to get at, was hoping the center O-ring stayed in the right spot. If it didn't there will be a mess when its fired back up in the spring.

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Fittings on the filter housing

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Fittings removed from housing and oil cooler

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These items are parts to the original oil manifold. Part I'm pointing at is what was removed from the block, last pic in post 1

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alldodge

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The sender came with some adapters so the install will be easy. The filter housing has two inlets so remove the one not being used (arrow pointing in). The plug was tuff getting out, had to use an extension.

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Then install sender without pipe dope (need a good ground)

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Then installed new fittings, with pipe dope

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Scott Danforth

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looks like the old thread on adapter was swapped for the Canton unit https://www.cantonracingproducts.com...R--MK-5-GEN-6/

Im undecided if I am going to buy it for my build or have the machine shop at work turn one out of stainless.

the threaded oil adapter that you removed is a bear to remove, even with the engine on a stand and the fitting pointing upward.

like the pics.

I myself will be using the two oil cooler ports in the rail next to the pan (stock GM location). if that doesnt provide enough cooling, I will change to full-flow cooling like you have at that time.
 

alldodge

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Thought about using the pan location but with the motor still in the boat the cool fuel caused more issues. This was the easiest way to install. Only issue I see with it, is if there is a bad ground, otherwise should work OK.

Edit: need to mention I mis-spoke in the first post saying the original lines were 1/2 ID, they were only 3/8 ID, hence the reason to change
 

Rick Stephens

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Nice job and writeup.

Removing that center fitting on the block filter mount must of been nerve wracking. I can see all sorts of ways that could go south.
 

bruceb58

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Did you make the hoses yourself? I made some -6 AN last year for my auto trans cooler. Never realized how easy they are to make once you figure out the technique.
 

alldodge

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Nice job and writeup.

Removing that center fitting on the block filter mount must of been nerve wracking. I can see all sorts of ways that could go south.

Thanks, and I was worried a bit. Didn't have a 1/2 hex impact, so I cut a piece off a 1/2 Allen and stuck it in a 6 point socket. Every time it hammered was hoping it wasn't going to go south. Lucked out

Did you make the hoses yourself? I made some -6 AN last year for my auto trans cooler. Never realized how easy they are to make once you figure out the technique.

No didn't make them my self, the OSO guy made them up for me. Have no doubt I could have done it, but the guy I'm working with is an expert it what I need to do the job right. He's been great
 

alldodge

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Still need to install the hoses, found the fittings going to the cooler need to be changed. My cooler is the standard Merc and is an old one which uses 3/8 NPT fittings. So were going to get a couple 3/8 NPT to AN-10 and do some test runs later. By watching the heat we will be able to determine if the cooler can handle the job, if not I'll be changing the cooler later
 

NHGuy

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Did you have an oil temperature sensor last summer. How hot was it?
I have been contemplating doing a cooler on my remote filter too.
I am convinced that when doing the cooler it will require a thermostat. You have to let the oil get to temp.
 

alldodge

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No did not have a temp gauge on it originally.
My motor came with an oil cooler from Merc, and this was used with the rebuild, found later it was restrictive for a high volume pump.

For standard builds, I don't nor does my guy believe we need a thermostat housing. Agree we need oil at temp, and this is the reason I'm going from 20W50 Castrol to Brad Penn straight 50W. So plan to do some runs and find out what the temp is. If there is a problem, will be replacing the cooler with a larger one
 

NHGuy

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I am of the opinion that the oil can run too cool without an oil stat. I will be watching for your results!
 

alldodge

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Feel like a pretzel but the new lines are on. Still need to install and wire the new gauge. One of these days I'm going to redesign the helm layout and probably get rid of the speed-o

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alldodge

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Updates: :facepalm:

Replaced 12 inch oil cooler with 18 inch 525/500 oil cooler.
Changed oil to straight 50W Brad Penn
Installed mechanical gauge Tee'd next to electrical gauge

Motor runs at a bit under 50 psi at idle and electrical gauge is about 15 psi lower then actual. I'm thinking a 100 psi sender was installed where a 80 psi sender was. My gauge only goes to 80 psi. Replaced sender and now mechanical is only about 2 psi higher then electrical.

Once motor is warmed up, cruise at 3600 rpm and pressure at 68 psi. When not totally warmed up it gets to 8o psi. Found my oil filter gaskets was leaking a bit at this pressure. Oil temps at 230 degrees cruising at 3600 rpm, but get it to 3800 and temp goes to 240 degrees. At WOT (very short stay) it starts climbing higher.

So I need yet a bigger cooler and changing oil to 20W50 for now. Guy I'm working with would prefer me to go to Brad Penn 40W but for now not going to do at this point, will do later once we get temps under control.

With new epoxy paint on the bottom, it appears I need to go from 22 4x4 to 26 3x3 because I'm starting to over rev. A slick bottom sure pays MPH
 

alldodge

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Have done some changes and recording data. Changed back to 20W50 and idle is about 60 and once block gets to 140 (thermostat) pressure is right at 50 psi. Running on plane between 3800 to 4k RPM, oil temps get up to 260 if running for long enough, WOT climbs above and I slow it down. Block temp is running steady 160 degrees, and at WOT temp climbs to 170 but no more.

Picked up a AN10 with 1/8 NPT fitting in an attempt to install a second oil temp sender after the cooler. The sender (VOD 300 degree) will fit but the sender is to long, and even if it was a bit shorter it would restrict the oil flow, taking up almost half the diameter. Current sender is before the cooler in the filter housing, and temps will go above 260 degrees at 4k rpms. Like to find out how much the cooler is cooling the oil but still think the 525 cooler is not enough.

Looking for ideas of how to install

oil 2.jpg
 
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