Don't know where to start. So many problems with 95 Crownline

[floater212]

being new to you boat, I would swap the distributor cap, rotor and spark plugs, and maybe plug wires this way you know those are all good to go too!

 

[muskyfins]

You could also disconnect the fuel inlet to the separator and crank the motor over a time or two to pump fuel into a jar and examine just how bad the fuel really is. If it's not in the very bad category, you should be able to use Joe's method.

 

[GA_Boater]

You could also disconnect the fuel inlet to the separator and crank the motor over a time or two to pump fuel into a jar and examine just how bad the fuel really is. If it's not in the very bad category, you should be able to use Joe's method.

Since the separator is before the pump, he won't see anything except the dribbles from gas draining out of the hose.

Better to disconnect the pump output or carb input and do the crank over.

 

[littleguydave]

Well I tried to access the fuel tank. Seems like they threw plywood on top of the rotten floor. Is it ok to rip out all of this rotten wood? I am not sure what is under it and if I could even build a good floor.

 

[littleguydave]

being new to you boat, I would swap the distributor cap, rotor and spark plugs, and maybe plug wires this way you know those are all good to go too!

I will man but I have no idea where the spark plugs even are.

By the way here is a picture of the engine and carb

 

[GA_Boater]

The distributor is at the back of the motor behind the carb. Spark plugs are under the manifolds kind of where the side two arrows point.

The circled hose on the water pump should be removed when the motor is winterized, not the top hose on the distribution manifold.

You have a 4 barrel carb - I'll let those that know advise you.

 

[littleguydave]

I have the top hose off so I could access the fuel pump. That hose is full of water
Thank you so much for that picture. It helps a lot. I have no idea how to remove a manifold

 

[wrench 3]

Well I tried to access the fuel tank. Seems like they threw plywood on top of the rotten floor. Is it ok to rip out all of this rotten wood? I am not sure what is under it and if I could even build a good floor.

It would be a good idea to pull the old floor out and see what shape the framework underneath it is in. In marine terminology the floor is a deck and the framework underneath is stringers running for and aft, ribs going side to side.

 

[littleguydave]

The ptoblem is that the screws are broken and impossible to locate. So when I start ripping the plywood I may end up destroying the support beams underneath. I guess I can replace each piece of wood one at a time. I have a few saws. By the way guys the boat is in my garage so it will never fall below freezing

 

[redneck joe]

Not a ggod sign to have plywood on top of old.


not a dethnell, but you may be in for a project now.



may be able to run for a year or so but you will, and i mean will, need to find out more below deck



if your goal is to run this summer, just keep running fuel and clean out .



there will be lots more opinions coming. Soon.

 

[littleguydave]

Well here in the upstate South Carolina it is warm from April until November. So I have time. I work full time but I can dedicate Sundays and maybe a couple hours on Mondays. I have about $900 I can spend. I am going to buy good plywood and bulk outdoor rugs. I have already started to build the furniture and replace the old seats

 

[littleguydave]

Here is the back seat I built. I have also built a back rest and seat for 3 people with cup holders. But the other audio speakers were rotted and were not connected. I just installed Sony Xplode 6.5s. I know they aren't marine grade but they are only meant to last a few years. The boat is garage kept and has a bimini top so rain won't be too much an issue, just moisture

 

[littleguydave]

Not to be corny, but with the help of you all I might be able to make this a respectable boat and I am feeling confident about it

 

[wrench 3]

With a bit of patience you should be able to get that deck removed. Pry up gently on it to find where the screws are. Then if necessary dig some wood out around the screw head to get vice grips on it.

 

[achris]

That carb is a Weber 4 barrel, the easiest of the 3 to strip and clean. I can usually have those off and in pieces in less than 30 minutes. Throw all the parts in a tin of cleaner overnight and it's about another 30 minutes to rebuild and fit. You will need to get yourself a set of Torx drivers. THIS set has all the sizes you'll need.

To remove the carb, just remove the throttle cable. A 7/16" socket will do. Undo the fuel inlet nut (hold the fitting in the carb with another wrench to stop it turning). Then remove a small clip that hold the choke linkage to the shutter. Remove the 4 nuts holding the carb to the inlet manifold and lift the carb off.

To replace spark plugs, you don't need to remove the exhaust manifolds. The spark plugs are accessible under the manifolds. Just get your head down there and you'll see them....

Chris........

 

[Baylinerchuck]

Good luck on your endeavor, following along for moral support.

 

[Rick Stephens]

I'd say no way to household carpeting. The backing isn't designed for the water. Marine carpet is pretty inexpensive, even ordering from iBoats and paying UPS to deliver it, which is where I got mine last time. The backing can take a lot more weather and water and won't break down. That's really the only difference.

First time I did a rebuild on a Weber I was blown away. It is so easy that I put one on my new V6. Great carb for working on. Take your time. Get a rebuild kit, from local auto parts, the gaskets won't survive being taken apart. Take the time to make sure each passageway is open, either spraying carb cleaner through it or using compressed air. The Mercruiser Service manual has a great step by step section on it. Probably more involved in the manual than you'll need, like adjusting linkages, but setting float height and how to disassemble, great.

 

[achris]

I'd say no way to household carpeting. The backing isn't designed for the water. Marine carpet is pretty inexpensive, even ordering from iBoats and paying UPS to deliver it, which is where I got mine last time. The backing can take a lot more weather and water and won't break down. That's really the only difference.

Completely agree. Marine carpet in a boat. Indoor carpet will go nasty and rot in a matter of weeks.

First time I did a rebuild on a Weber I was blown away. It is so easy that I put one on my new V6. Great carb for working on. Take your time. Get a rebuild kit, from local auto parts, the gaskets won't survive being taken apart. Take the time to make sure each passageway is open, either spraying carb cleaner through it or using compressed air. The Mercruiser Service manual has a great step by step section on it. Probably more involved in the manual than you'll need, like adjusting linkages, but setting float height and how to disassemble, great.

Mikes Carbs have rebuild kits for the Weber 9600...

HERE is a link to that manual. BTW, cylmer and seloc are not manuals, they are only really good to use as kneeling pads.

Just been looking at the engine pictures again. I think that engine is either 1992, 1993 or early 1994, But definitely not 1995 (as the hull is).... It has a 'Design I' themostat housing, which finished in late 93/early 1994, and an electric fuel pump and Weber carb, both of which started in 1992. Can you find a serial number anywhere?

Chris......

 

[FreeBeeTony]

Just a word of caution:

The 2 "wings" (1 on either side) on top of the carb are held in place by small torx head screws.
When re-assembling the carb, DO NOT OVERTIGHTEN these screws......they break VERY easily......
I know from experience......

Other than that....a very simple carb to rebuild!

Good luck!

 

[redneck joe]

i've thought about AstroTurf in the boat. The new stuff fells just like grass, again at HD. Did't look over the back much but should be outdoor rated.

grass on a boat, just because I can....