Don't know where to start. So many problems with 95 Crownline

[littleguydave]

This is my first boat so I have no idea what I am doing. Let me give some info
95 Crownline 4.3L v8

When I bought the boat it had a lot of issues. It would not start without beating on the starter, and the tilt/trim would not operate unless I beat on the pump. So I rebuilt the alternator and replaced the tild solonoids and motor. Now the tilt/trim works great and it starts up.

When I get the boat out on the water it runs good, but after about 20 minutes it will start to sputter. Sometimes it will make a loud "PUFF" sound and then start to stall. Usually it will start right back up and run for another 10 minutes before dying. So I took it home, added seafoam and ran it with muffs. It ran for 2 hours and never overheated or stalled. I had it slightly above idle and it burned a quarter tank. So I started to add non-ethanol fuel and I tried to keep the tank as full as possible.

Now I have the boat in my garage and I am rebuilding all of the wood. Since I have it open, I decided to do some engine maintenance. The first thing I did was look at the carb. I noticed that the flame arrestor was covered in debris and oil. It took 2 cans of carb cleaner to get it clean. I looked at the fuel/water separator and dumped it into a jar. This is what I see....

So this is where I am. Could this be why my boat runs like crap? I am about to add some fuel stabilizer. I want to put the new fuel filter on and run it for a day, then replace the filter again. I am also trying to change the oil and researching how to do the engine fogging.

The last 3 times I took the boat out to the dock I could not get it to run.

 

[Scott Danforth]

Drain your tank. What is in it has long quit being fuel

 

[littleguydave]

I just added heet to it. I am not sure how to drain the tank, but it is completely full. I was thinking about running it at the house until empty with muffs on while I flush with anti-freeze and do the fogging. Everything I am learning is from youtube. I only add non ethanol gas and the last time I took the boat out was 2 months ago

 

[GA_Boater]

Welcome aboard.

Adding new fuel to what is in your tank only makes more bad gas.

At this point you have a couple of options;

Buy a bunch of water separator/filters, run it in the driveway on muffs and keep changing filters until the water is gone. Some water/sludge will still be on the bottom of the tank. Then rebuild the carb. I don't recommend this one.

Or find the fuel gauge sender on top of the tank, take it out and siphon the gas out, then clean the tank out as best you can. Then put on a new WS/filter and rebuild the carb.

 

[wrench 3]

To drain a fuel tank I remove the fuel gauge sender and put the suction hose of a pump in through the sender hole and basically vacuum out the bottom of the tank. I'm not sure how to access the sender on your boat but your tank is probably down the center under the deck. There should be either a small hatch in the deck or the fuel tank may extend back into engine compartment and the sender may be there.
Before you store it I'd get good fuel in the tank with fuel stabilizer added, run the engine long enough to get that stabilized gas into the carburetor, then remove the fuel water separator, start the engine and run it until the carb runs out of gas.

 

[Rick Stephens]

+1 to GA_Boater. It will keep right on being a mess until you get the whole system clean. A once over of the entire fuel system will let you move on to boating. Any half measures will leave you still cleaning it up next year.

 

[achris]

This is my first boat so I have no idea what I am doing. Let me give some info
95 Crownline 4.3L v8

Is it a V8 or a 4.3litre? Can't be both.Can you post the engine serial number? How to find serial numbers HERE. (The year and brand of the boat are fairly meaningless to the engine.)

Chris...........

 

[littleguydave]

Ok when I get off of work I will try to figure out the gas issue. The biggest issue is finding a 20 gallon container to hold all of the gas, and then disposal.
Do I have to clean the carb? I have never cleaned one. I cleaned the flame arrestor, but I have never touched a carb in my life and don't know where to begin with removing it. Thanks a lot guys
​I know I can search old threads to find answers but I am overwhelmed

 

[redneck joe]

How much fuel did you add to what size tank? My boat sat for seveal years empty. I added a spot to add a cheap basic filter ahead of the water seperator and for the first 20 hours or so went thru 10 of those and two water seperators.


so if you added 5 gallons to a 20 gallon tank, I'd drain. If you added 15 to a 20, I'd take my course. Cleaning a drained take involves removing it.

 

[achris]

Ok when I get off of work I will try to figure out the gas issue. The biggest issue is finding a 20 gallon container to hold all of the gas, and then disposal.

Local petrol shop should be able to help with disposal.

Do I have to clean the carb? I have never cleaned one. I cleaned the flame arrestor, but I have never touched a carb in my life and don't know where to begin with removing it.

Not only the carburettor, but the fuel pump and all the fuel lines too. First thing you'll need to do is identify the carb. It's most likely a Weber (if 4 bbl) or a Mercarb (if 2bbl).... Removal is very simple and straightforward, the instructions are quite clear in the service manual (you have a manual, yes?).... If you're not confident about stripping and cleaning, just remove and take it to a carb specialist, NOT a marine shop (you'll likely overpay).

HTH,

Chris........

 

[littleguydave]

Is it a V8 or a 4.3litre? Can't be both.Can you post the engine serial number? How to find serial numbers HERE. (The year and brand of the boat are fairly meaningless to the engine.)

Chris...........

Sorry bro it's a v6. I'll get the serial number after work

 

[littleguydave]

I've added 5 gallons each outing and never let the tank fall below 3/4

I ordered a new fuel pump for $90 that will be here Tuesday

 

[littleguydave]

When I removed the fuel pump there was a rubber hose remaining that runs under the deck. I can siphon it out for there but I won't be able to clean the tank. I don't see a latch to access the tank. It looks like the entire floor is one piece and carpeted.

By the way you guys are awesome for helping me and not bashing me for amateur questions. It's much appreciated. I live in South Carolina and in 2 months it'll be warm. Oh yea and I store the boat in my garage

 

[redneck joe]

By the way you guys are awesome for helping me and not bashing me for amateur questions. It's much appreciated.

we were all new at one time or another, and some of us a realllllly slow learners.


5 gallons. OK - how many times out and how big is the tank? I think you can look that up here.

 

[littleguydave]

I've taken it out 8 times. The last 3 times it worked after adding a can of seafoam. It ran better when I added it. But it's been sitting for 2 months now. I'll add pictures when I get off of work. I think 20 gallon tank and it is full

 

[Rick Stephens]

EVERYONE starts out needing to learn the hard way. Most of us can't afford a nice shiny new boat for our first, or even later boats. And we usually get someone else's headache. The especially neat thing on this forum are those few pro's that are willing to share their hard earned wisdom. They don't make any money hanging here, and this is their business they are sharing oh so kindly with us. You have no idea how appreciative we all are at their graciousness. Anyway, welcome to the forum and keep on hanging in. You'll get it all fixed up and be the better for learning all about it. Always keep it in perspective that boats are expensive, both in labor and in actual $$. Learning to fix it yourself is the best way to manage the costs.

 

[GA_Boater]

I don't remember when I rebuilt my first carb, it was so long ago. No internet and of course no forum like this one way back when. This place is a good resource and we won't let you down.

When you do start to do the rebuild, invest in a gallon can of carb cleaner from the auto parts store. It will have a basket to hold the parts after disassembly for soaking, then use compressed air to blow out the passages.

 

[redneck joe]

ok similar to mine, but like I said I added an inline ahead and changed as it started coughing on me. First couple trips ran rough pretty quick maybe 30 minutes. Then next couple maybe hour. after about nine prefilters and one more water separator ran much better. My tank sat empty, but what little was in there that did not get siphoned would have completely dried and all the varnish was flaking off. Yours would be old gas - but by now you have mixed 30 gallons to an old 20 so you are almost thru the old. BTW 2 months won't affect anything. Two years will.

I also did the same to the breather, two cans.

I double seafoam suggested amount.

Draining would be best, but not sure at this point if you are past the benefit of that.


I am NOT the expert, just telling you what I did that worked for me.

 

[achris]

It was also long ago for me, but I don't have dementia yet and do remember what and when it was. 1977. It was a Solo chain saw. Carb with a pulse chamber fuel pump integrated. The only parts agent was 250 miles away. :facepalm: That was real 'seat of the pants' in those days. ..

Dave. First thing to do is identify the carb. What make is it? (Weber, Rochester or Mercarb)

Cheers

Chris. ...

 

[Rick Stephens]

Dave. First thing to do is identify the carb. What make is it? (Weber, Rochester or Mercarb)


Chris. ...

Indeed. Take a picture and post it if it isn't obvious. Most V6 carbs are a piece of cake to rebuild if you have a skosh of patience. I really like the Weber for ease of working on. Once you know which carb we can help with a short list of tools, most of which aren't fancy.