470 mercruiser rebuilt engine install questions

stonyloam

Vice Admiral
Joined
Mar 13, 2009
Messages
5,827
Nothing on the head gasket. Mercruiser says retorque is an absolute necessity. I think that is because of the iron head on the aluminum block, the two metals expand at different rates when heated. So after the first time they are brought up to operating temperature you need to retorque. I did mine hot. Your mechanic is probably more familiar with iron on iron.
 

aarons 470

Petty Officer 1st Class
Joined
Aug 29, 2012
Messages
351
Shop is mounting engine today, and maybe bolting down head depending on what they'll charge me. I

have a very stupid question, have mercy, lol. And Boat is at shop so I can't look at engine.

Looking at the online manual it seems like lifters would already be installed in my engine when it was built?


But I have some lifters the machinist gave me when I picked up engine. Maybe there just extra as this is a 4 cyl, and a standard lifter kit has enough for a 460- so there already sitting on my engines cam?

Since the 470 has that long narrow plate bolted to side I have been assuming; because of having lifters in a box, that they would go in there? Didn't cross my mind they could already be in. I'm green when it comes to internal engine parts.
 
Last edited:

stonyloam

Vice Admiral
Joined
Mar 13, 2009
Messages
5,827
Yes that plate covers the lifter gallery. The lifters should have been installed if the plate is on I would think. If you drop the pushrods in and they disappear, then you know they were not LOL.
I would have them bolt on the head and make sure all of the pushrods are the correct length to properly set the valve lash. They should be able to do that, I think it is the same procedure as the 460. Kind of a pain to do. Then take it home, and once you get it running, retorque the head bolts. I just backed off about 1/4 turn, than retightned to proper torque. Do it in the correct sequence. You will need to remove the rocker arms to do it, make sure you reinstall and torque each rocker with the valve closed.
 
Last edited:

aarons 470

Petty Officer 1st Class
Joined
Aug 29, 2012
Messages
351
Thanks stony. The plate Wasn't mounted by machinist , so my lifters will still need to go in then. Good to know.

I talked to shop. I'm just going to have them set motor mounts and align engine, $320 for that. That way I know it's aligned correctly not worth messing around there.

They want another $125 just to tourque down the head and nothing else to it. Valves are already set by machinist. I will have to find the right rod lengths though as you mentioned. I think my machinist is going to help me out there.

So I told marine shop I'll do it myself.
That seems very expensive considering the boat is already in the shop and being worked on. Quick Wipe down with solvent, lay down gasket, lay down freshly decked head, dope my clean bolts with sealant and tourque the sequence.

Brings up a question. Are the torque wrenches with the rod and gauge you can buy at auto parts stores ok for one time use? As opposed to the more expensive ones that click.
 

aarons 470

Petty Officer 1st Class
Joined
Aug 29, 2012
Messages
351
Shop just called me. Said the rear coupler is no good, mostly stripped. I thought it looked fine but I'm no expert. New ones are around 500. Maybe I can find a good used one. I'm out of hobby funds.
First things first I need to find the part number
 
Last edited:

alldodge

Moderator
Staff member
Joined
Mar 8, 2009
Messages
40,722
Google Mercruiser 69354A2 and look at ship wreck salvage. They have one for 150

I bought a couple pieces from them before, fast shipping. Hope the guys installing the motor won't charge you more for waiting
 

aarons 470

Petty Officer 1st Class
Joined
Aug 29, 2012
Messages
351
Google Mercruiser 69354A2 and look at ship wreck salvage. They have one for 150

I bought a couple pieces from them before, fast shipping. Hope the guys installing the motor won't charge you more for waiting

Nice thanks dodge. So they probably wouldn't sell it if it wasn't usable? My engine serial number is 6123990.
I found one you told me about, it looks different but maybe doesn't matter. Mine is more of a solid cone shape doesn't get as narrow as this one.
 
Last edited:

alldodge

Moderator
Staff member
Joined
Mar 8, 2009
Messages
40,722
They only sell what they believe are good used parts, and do believe they come with an exchange or money back. I have not had an issue with the parts, but as before only bought a few items. There are only a few types or couplers, and if that's the case you may want Mercruiser 97432A2 item 13 for the 82 thru 84 models. I thought yours was an older one

http://www.mercruiserparts.com/bam/subassembly/30930/1075/110

If that is the case then shipwreck has one for 200.
Iboats has a new one for 363
 

aarons 470

Petty Officer 1st Class
Joined
Aug 29, 2012
Messages
351
You are right Dodge, I just found out same thing.
my engine is older but my flywheel is a newer style, has bolts as opposed to studs. So coupler is different. Someone must have changed it out at some point.

I'll go for that 200 dollar one. Thanks for the help guys
 

stonyloam

Vice Admiral
Joined
Mar 13, 2009
Messages
5,827
Go with the good torque wrench Should be able to borrow one free from Autozone.
 

aarons 470

Petty Officer 1st Class
Joined
Aug 29, 2012
Messages
351
Ok. Should I be worried at all about mounting head myself? Doesn't seem like that big of deal?
Clean, lay down gasket, head, aviation seal the bolt threads and head, and torque proper sequence which you guys gave me. I'm a steam fitter so done a lot of wrench torque'n and gasket setting.

Some of the flanges on the 470 block seem very narrow?
I get my coupler middle of the week so I'll have boat back next weekend. I don't really want to cough up another $125 to have shop set it. But if it's tricky and not worth messing with I will.
 

stonyloam

Vice Admiral
Joined
Mar 13, 2009
Messages
5,827
Seems to me that there are locating pins on the block, drop the gasket over them and put the head on. The gasket should be stamped "front". The "book" says the stamp should face down, but mine faced up. Anyway front is front and the gasket only goes on one way. More info.: https://www.google.com/search?q=merc...DC04EUeeW_M%3A yup the open design can be a problem, one reason that proper torquing is necessary. If you do it correctly and NEVER let the engine overheat you should be OK for a long time.
 

aarons 470

Petty Officer 1st Class
Joined
Aug 29, 2012
Messages
351
Thanks. Hopefully this weekend the motor will be in and I can start adding to it.
Is there a list Somewhere that shows sequence of assembling stuff back to block? Bigger stuff seems pretty straight forward. Don't want to miss anything smaller.

Manual has good info but only sequences the part it's covering not entire reassembly. Unless I'm just missing it?

Question about the harmonic balancer. Should I use one from the 82 or the 88 engine? Any benefit using the newer style?
 

stonyloam

Vice Admiral
Joined
Mar 13, 2009
Messages
5,827
It is called a rotor not harmonic balancer (yeah it is a 470, they are different). You should probably use the one that came off the engine, IF it is in good shape and all of the magnets are still glued in securely. DO NOT try to drive the rotor on, it can loosen the magnets and they can be a real problem if one comes loose while the engine is running. You need to pull it on. You can use the harmonic balance puller set from Autozone but you need to make some spacers because of the depth of the face of the rotor. You can use a fine thread 1/2 inch threaded rod and a stack of washers to pull it on. Start the rotor on. Thread the rod all the way into the crank hole ( don't mar the threads). Grease a few 1/2 inch washers and slip them on, make a spacer out of a piece of pipe or a 1/2 inch drive deep socket, add another washer and thread on a 1/2 inch fine nut. Thread it up against the washer and turn it with a wrench to push (pull?) the rotor on. When done just unthread the rod and you should be good to go. If you can find a long enough bolt you can use that instead of a rod, just to put the nut, washers and spacers on first. Do not try to pull it on with the center bolt, you could strip out the threads.
 

aarons 470

Petty Officer 1st Class
Joined
Aug 29, 2012
Messages
351
Ok thanks. Now I'm wondering If I still have the center bolt.:lol: I haven't noticed any larger type bolts, Is it an odd looking bolt?

The magnets seem well attached as far as I can tell. Do you guys ever add a tad of jb weld/epoxy etc equally to the outer edge of magnets for extra protection so they wont come off to easy?

On another note. How do you get your thread to pull up with the most current page first?
 
Last edited:

aarons 470

Petty Officer 1st Class
Joined
Aug 29, 2012
Messages
351
Engine is aligned and installed. I put head on today.

Im in trouble. I need help with wiring, I'm getting a headache!

I've been looking at my engine wiring harness. Not many of the colors match up to the merc manuals schematic. A few do at least.

I believe my engine is the 485 version. Stock outdrive says 485 and engine has the larger head.

Engine has a stock voltage gauge not an amp meter.

Wire Colors aren't matching, and briefly looking at other model schematics different also.

I am going to run an alternator, so I'll need to change wiring some from stock. I know which 2 wires went to the origional voltage box, and what was marked on post. I'm also using the starter with the solenoid mounted to it. It's from my 1988 parts boat. So that may change things? Stock this 82 engine didn't have the attached solenoid on starter.

Do you guys have a preferred spot to ground to on the engine? I'd like to get those wires on before I start burying block with parts. Unfortunately I'm not even sure how many main grounds there are and where they come from. When I got boat everything was stripped or gone.

As for the harness I'll take pictures of each branch which I'll number separately with tape. maybe you guys would know the color variations?
 

alldodge

Moderator
Staff member
Joined
Mar 8, 2009
Messages
40,722
The three wire ALT wires are Output, Battery and Switched. The bat side is always hot just as the output. The switched only is only hot when the key is ON. You could install a one wire which only needs the one connection.

I would connect the main ground connection to the rear of the block on the flywheel housing

Pics of what your looking at would be good
 
Top