Mercruiser 4.3 Temperature Fluctuations

Eloctox

Recruit
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Dec 3, 2016
Messages
2
Hi guys,

I'm new to the forums as I haven't owned a boat in years but picked up a nice clean circa 2001 19' bowrider with a 4.3 Mercruiser EFI and A1G2 outdrive a couple of weeks ago. This is a raw water cooled boat and has been used primarily in fresh water but occasionally in salt. From the outward appearance, it's been meticulously maintained - the engine looks like new, has new manifolds and risers, new hoses etc. It does not smoke, starts immediately, everything works.

On our first outing, I noticed that after about 5 minutes running, the temperature was up at around 160f according the gauge. A minute later, I looked again and it was back at 0 where it remained. I assumed a fault with the gauge but headed back to the ramp at idle speed anyway. I contacted the previous owner who said he'd had no such issues but it had been about 6 months since the boat had been on the water fro a decent run.

Once home, I read numerous articles on this forum where similar issues had arisen. I tested the gauge by grounding the signal wire and it "pegged full" and stayed there. I tested the sender, it was reading a resistance around 600 ohms as it should.

I then ran it up to temperature with ears and the hose while on the trailer. When reading the ~160f on the gauge, the thermostat housing was giving 100f (38c) via a laser thermometer, the front ends of the manifolds were reading 133f (56c) and the top of the risers were reading 122f (50c). The gauge then did the same thing, dropped to 0. I allowed it to idle for another minute or so and the recorded temperatures at the various locations remained the same, maybe 1-2 degree fluctuations. I then shut it down and ordered a new (160f) thermostat.

I replaced the thermostat last night - the old one was looking pretty sorry but not the worst I've seen however I doubt it was functioning properly. I replaced the gaskets in the housing as well and made sure to install it the right way round per the manual.

I ran the boat up to temperature today. The gauge went up to the usual 160f and stayed there for a bit. I thought I was free and clear but after a couple of minutes it dropped back down to about 100f - not 0 as it did before. I took some temperature readings at various spots on the engine again, the top of the thermostat housing, manifolds and top of the risers were reading the same as before. I took readings on the front of the heads at both sides and these were both 180f-200f (82-93c) between several readings over a minute or so but were going up and down. I shut everything down at this point.

I realised I had no "normal" reading for comparison. Wondering if anyone's taken readings from similar points on a "known good" 4.3 and whether the gauge moving up to 160 from cold and then dropping back to 100 might be considered normal for a raw water cooled unit. Ie the temperature drop is once the thermostat opens.

It's taken me about 15 years to convince SWMBO to allow me to buy a boat, if I destroy the engine within a month, I'll be in all sorts of trouble...

​Cheers!
 

Scott Danforth

Grumpy Vintage Moderator still playing with boats
Staff member
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Jul 23, 2011
Messages
47,496
since this is a new to you boat, you should have replaced the impeller, thermostat and all other maintenance items (oil, filter, wires, cap, rotor, plugs, gear lube, gimbal bearing grease)

I would start there.

the temp swings would indicate a bad t-stat or a lack of water flow
the readings on the heads of 180+ would indicate lack of water flow
 

alldodge

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Mar 8, 2009
Messages
40,718
I tested the sender, it was reading a resistance around 600 ohms as it should.


Shouldn't be reading resistance that high. Should check it out of the block and to get full range check in a pan of water on the stove with a thermometer.


Water Temperature
Ohms Reading
140 F121-147
194 F47-55
212 F36-41
 

tpenfield

Moderator
Staff member
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Jul 18, 2011
Messages
17,696
Might also have a bad/loose connection

+1 on the faulty wiring/connections. That would be my first guess. Check them at the gauge as well as the sender. Also the thermostat housings on many of the Merc's have to be grounded through the gasket. so that can also be an issue if the wiring does not resolve the issue.
 

Eloctox

Recruit
Joined
Dec 3, 2016
Messages
2
Thanks guys,

I have already changed the oil and filter in the engine and I bought the oil and impeller/gaskets to do the outdrive but the orange "quad ring" thing to seal the oilway between the upper and lower housings wasn't in the pack. I'm not sure if I should try and re-use the old one, I'll hopefully be able to pick a new one up later today.

I've got the grease for the splines etc but I don't think this is the same as the gimbal and hinge grease and was going to ask if anyone knew of a cheaper alternative for the gimbal/hinge grease or at least a way of purchasing where you don't need to buy 3 packs at a time... I hadn't thought about the distributor parts and leads but good point.

When I replaced the thermostat, I replaced the gasket - it had the four brass studs that maintain electrical continuity between the block and the thermostat housing so there's a good ground - 0 Ohms between the body of the sender and the negative terminal on the battery. I tested continuity between there and the ground at the gauge with a digital multimeter and a long piece of wire with alligator clips. I left it connected and gave the wiring harness a good shake over the motor, behind the motor and where it comes back out of the hull and goes to the gauges. No change. Did the same for the brown signal wire at the sender to the signal peg on the back of the gauge. Again no change.

The resistance of ~600 Ohms was measured before I started the engine - my saying it was what I should expect was based on Faria's (This boat has Faria gauges) testing document: http://fariabeede.com/site_manuals/IS0345A.pdf and it being roughly 71f (22c) when I did this test. I didn't get a chance to test it when the gauge was reading ~160f but when it had dropped to 100f yesterday, I stopped the engine and measured 422 Ohms across the sender and rising fairly quickly (the water from the hose was still on). At this point the outside of the housing was still roughly 93f (34c) and remained fairly steady for the 20 seconds or so that I watched the resistance rise.

Anyway, I'll change out the impeller and see if that makes a difference but I'll also try and get that resistance reading when the gauge is 160. Just not sure the readings will be right with the gauge in the circuit - the sensor resistance readings I've taken to this point have been between the output pin and body of the sensor with the brown wire disconnected. Don't really want to do any of this with the thing running due to proximity to the serpentine belt at the front of the engine. I'll also disconnect and reconnect all the gauge connectors.

Thanks again for all your help.
 

tpenfield

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Jul 18, 2011
Messages
17,696
I'd check all the wiring connections first. Also wondering if you can check the resistance and voltage at the sender wire if/when it drops to '0' again.
 

JoLin

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Joined
Aug 18, 2007
Messages
5,146
I've got the grease for the splines etc but I don't think this is the same as the gimbal and hinge grease and was going to ask if anyone knew of a cheaper alternative for the gimbal/hinge grease or at least a way of purchasing where you don't need to buy 3 packs at a time... I hadn't thought about the distributor parts and leads but good point..

I'm using the new Quicksilver Extreme grease, part # 8M0071841 for everything on the boat now. Makes life simpler. Available at iboats.

My .02
 
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