Switching MCM 120 to a 3.0

BillysBoat1986

Seaman Apprentice
Joined
Jun 13, 2016
Messages
30
Hi all, I have a 1986 Thompson bowrider 16 ft with a 2.5 liter MCM 120. It has a loud knock so I'm debating on going the lazy way out and replacing it with a 3.0, preferably a 140hp crate. Will it fit on my existing mounts and will all my old accessories fit? Does this seem like a good idea to you all? Thanks for the help!
 

Bondo

Moderator
Staff member
Joined
Apr 17, 2002
Messages
70,524
Ayuh,.... Sure,.... It's a plug, 'n play swap,.....
 

Scott Danforth

Grumpy Vintage Moderator still playing with boats
Staff member
Joined
Jul 23, 2011
Messages
47,527
with a caveat, stick with a 1990 or older 3.0 for plug-n-play in 1991 they changed the block and crank for a 1-piece oil seal.

3.0 long-block crate motors are in the $2000 - $2800 range.
 

BillysBoat1986

Seaman Apprentice
Joined
Jun 13, 2016
Messages
30
Sweet! Thanks guys... looks like this won't be too difficult. The hardest part will be spending that 2k.
 

BillysBoat1986

Seaman Apprentice
Joined
Jun 13, 2016
Messages
30
One more question... been shopping around. Will the 2.5 liter head fit on a 3.0 short block? Looks like they use the same gasket.
 

Scott Danforth

Grumpy Vintage Moderator still playing with boats
Staff member
Joined
Jul 23, 2011
Messages
47,527
I would have your head redone if you want to reuse it, however by the time you pull it apart, have it cleaned, checked, machined, etc. and re-assembled, you can almost have a new head.

save money by eating bologna sandwiches vs skimping on motor work.
 

mickyryan

Rear Admiral
Joined
Apr 18, 2016
Messages
4,210
don't use the 120hp head on a 3.0 they are poor breathers compared to the 3.0 litre head, also best to just get long block but you will most likely need to get a new exaust/intake manifold because more then likely you have a 120 head that's got smaller exaust ports. the 3.0 has a harmonic balancer where as a 120 doesn't so make sure that's sorted out that you get a balancer on whatever engine you buy. there are flywheel differences with those older engines if i can find the info I will post here but its on the internet. only other snag you might hit is with starter there was some starter differences back then but I haven't ran into that so i cannot elaborate.
 

BillysBoat1986

Seaman Apprentice
Joined
Jun 13, 2016
Messages
30
Thanks for the input and helping me to make a decision. I'm going the long block route. It's going to cost more up front but hopefully it will give me a lot of good seasons of service. I also won't have that nagging anxiety feeling when I'm miles from the dock. Maybe I can have some mustard on my bologna sandwichs though. šŸ˜‚
 

BillysBoat1986

Seaman Apprentice
Joined
Jun 13, 2016
Messages
30
Mickyryan, if the crate has a different flywheel would there be balance issues if I installed the old flywheel? Would that even be an option?
 

mickyryan

Rear Admiral
Joined
Apr 18, 2016
Messages
4,210
Yes if crate is a 181 and you put a 153 non harmonic it would destroy engine eventually im not even sure the crank will accept hub from 120 onn181 but 18q has balancer the 120 153 cu inch dont
 

mickyryan

Rear Admiral
Joined
Apr 18, 2016
Messages
4,210
well coupler for flywheel to shaft no but harmonic balancer has its own coupler where as a 120 has a coupler then the belt pulley attaches to it
as far as flywheel and coupler to sterndrive goes you should be fine just make sure if its a 2piece or 1 piece real seal because those flywheels are different .
 

Scott06

Vice Admiral
Joined
Apr 20, 2014
Messages
5,664
FYI there's a 1989 complete 3.0 on eBay asking $800 at the moment, allegedly runs well...
 
Top