3.0 tks seized - ran with no oil

G_Hipster

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The machine shop prices listed seem to be in line with what I'm seeing around me for a V8 but nothing on there about head work. 3.0 would be a little less. I don't turn over my work to the lowest bidder as I'd rather have my stuff done on something other then 75 y/o machines. Just sayin' A turned main requiring a line bore/hone will add quite a bit. Run out of oil, rocker, gear, lifter bores, guides and valves etc need careful inspection for galling. I don't think you'll end up that far from a crate engine cost wise.

Only way I would buy a used engine is if I could hear it run at operating temp with cooling system filled.
 
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Scott Danforth

Grumpy Vintage Moderator still playing with boats
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So the GM181 long block is an engine manufactured by GM and was intended for various tasks (not marine specific)?
I would buy the engine before it visits the Mercury factory, where they add all the marine specific attachments, right?
In what other fields is this engine used?
Is there a good chance to buy a good used engine (long block) for less than $2000?

generators and trash pumps. the 3.0 is an industrial engine like almost every other marine engine excluding outboards. they come from the GM Industrial power train division.

the $2k price is buying it before the Mercruiser factory stuff. the price for a 3.0 bobtail (full dressed) is $5500

you can get a good used motor for much less than $2k just buy a boat that has been wrecked, however the motor is still good. you pick that up, strip out the motor, then sell the rest. you may have to look for a really long time to find one.

unfortuneatly BOAT is an acronym for Break Out Another Thousand.
 

mickyryan

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are you sure you want to take this endeavor on? I mean if you have never rebuilt a engine a 3.0 is the perfect lil engine to learn on , however in the end by the time you buy the tools and stuff needed to do it , you will probably have same amount in it as you would a long block with a warranty.
that said I personally love rebuilding engines but if you are only ever going to do one ... think long and hard because it is a investment.
 

Scott06

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I would consider the reman from Michigan Motorz although it is above slightly $2k limit with some basic tools you can swap accessories over. If you can lift it out and back in only other tool would be an engine alignment tool which is like $45

While it cost me more money when re powering last year I was happy I bought a crate engine with a warranty just finished the first season with no issues.
 

mickyryan

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yup its tons easier to just buy one when you don't know or have a network for tools and such but again if you feel you will rebuild more then one engine in your life go for it :)
 

vak

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No Title

The garage is not tall enough.
 

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mickyryan

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small block chevy
4x4 posts a must , I built mine kind of different I used 2 4x4 posts with a 2x6 mounted to each side at top to catch the 4x6 I used across as a cross beam then I used 2x6 and made a triangle at bottom to give it upright support, however the one pictured will work just as well and appears that it might be from swing set plans :)
 

mickyryan

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yup I was lazy I got electric winch :)
20160423_131555.jpg

20160424_142159.jpg
 
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mickyryan

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hahaha that was part I threw away :) oh and I removed it by myself and sat it there , made sure my daughters boyfriends watched as to clear up any doubt of my capabilities :)
 
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fishrdan

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The garage is not tall enough.

Taking the tires of the trailer will give you about 9" of additional clearance (mentioned earlier).

I pulled my engine outside with a cherry picker and jacked up the front of the trailer with a floor jack, until the rear crossmember of the trailer was touching the ground, plenty of clearance to pull the engine with the transom about a foot lower.
 
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vak

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Taking the tires of the trailer will give you about 9" of additional clearance (mentioned earlier).

I pulled my engine outside with a cherry picker and jacked up the front of the trailer with a floor jack, until the rear crossmember of the trailer was touching the ground, plenty of clearance to pull the engine with the transom about a foot lower.

But how would I move the boat then? I don't have a cherry picker.
 

Alumarine

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But how would I move the boat then? I don't have a cherry picker.

Just drag it forward. Could put some thin plywood under where it's touching so it won't scratch the floor or get scratched.
 
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fishrdan

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But how would I move the boat then? I don't have a cherry picker.

You would have to check and see if the trailer frame hangs below the axle hubs, if the hubs will sit on the ground and the frame not drag, you can roll the trailer on the axle hubs. Put some plywood, 2x4's or cardboard under the hubs so they don't get scratched up, paint get scratched off on the concrete.

Don't try to move the trailer supported by a jack (even though the jack has wheels) as this is asking for disaster. This wasn't a great suggestion on my part due the garage limitation, I just mentioned it as an option to lower the back of the boat for engine removal.
 

vak

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small block chevy
4x4 posts a must

What if I screw 2 2x4 together to make 4x4? I don't see a use for 4x4 after the project is done.

Are there any directions for dummies available somewhere about how to disconnect the outdrive?
 

Bondo

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Ayuh,.... Doubled 2x4s for the verticals would be alright, but I'd go doubled 2x6s for the horizontal,.....
Are there any directions for dummies available somewhere about how to disconnect the outdrive?

Put the controller in Forward,....
Disconnect the trim rams from the drive,...
Remove the 6 nuts holdin' it on, 'n Pull,....

It weighs 'bout 80lbs, so be ready,.....
Or what I do is jack up the front of the boat wagon, so the drive is just touchin' the ground, 'n rock the drive back, off the transom assembly,....

There's Lots, 'n Lotsa Great info in the Adults Only section at the top of the I/O forums, or in my signature,....
 

vak

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Ayuh,.... Doubled 2x4s for the verticals would be alright, but I'd go doubled 2x6s for the horizontal,.....


Put the controller in Forward,....
Disconnect the trim rams from the drive,...
Remove the 6 nuts holdin' it on, 'n Pull,....

It weighs 'bout 80lbs, so be ready,.....
Or what I do is jack up the front of the boat wagon, so the drive is just touchin' the ground, 'n rock the drive back, off the transom assembly,....

There's Lots, 'n Lotsa Great info in the Adults Only section at the top of the I/O forums, or in my signature,....

Should I drain any liquids first? Gear lube? power steering?
What are trim rams? I have the outdrive trimmed down to the ground. Should I trim it up and jack the front?
Sorry for asking questions that are obvious to most people and thank your for the replies. I really want to do it myself, but have no knowledge and no experience.
 

vak

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What are the first steps in this project besides building a gantry?
 

GA_Boater

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We can help you, but with you saying you have knowledge or experience, you should get a manual to guide you through this. It isn't hard to remove the engine, but some pictures will help a lot along with the step by step instructions.
 
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