Re-painting outdrive

[burtonrider11]

This winter while our boat sleeps, I'm in the process of going thru the outdrive. I have all the old anodes off and want to re-paint. I'd also like to pull the top of the upper off to inspect the gears, however, I can't seem to find a socket that fits. I have a pretty good tool set, but these look like roughly an 11mm bolt, and it appears to have a star shape. Can anyone tell me the correct tool to remove this?

Also, I'd like to get some advice on re-painting. Overall, the boat was left in the water quite a bit prior to us owning it. What I thought was dirt, I now believe to be corrosion. The good news is that this "corrosion" is on top of existing paint, so I feel confident that I can sand this down and re-paint.

My bigger concern the skeg area where I have some bare metal. I'd like some advice on a good primer for this. I am not a pro painter, not even close, however even I can understand that without a good primer that will adhere to the metal, painting will be useless.

If anyone has any info on paints to use as well, I'm open. At this point, I'd like to simply use a high gloss Rust Oleum or equivalent and I'll apply new decals when complete. Any tips/tricks/advice would be especially helpful!

 

[Bondo]

Can anyone tell me the correct tool to remove this?

Ayuh,.... A standard 7/16" 12-point socket,....

The good news is that this "corrosion" is on top of existing paint,

More likely a mineral build-up, corrosion don't happen on top of paint, only under it,....

At this point, I'd like to simply use a high gloss Rust Oleum

Then use Rustoleum's own bare aluminum primer on the bare metal, 'n Rustoleum's own primer for the painted areas,...

 

[burtonrider11]

Ayuh,.... A standard 7/16" 12-point socket,....



More likely a mineral build-up, corrosion don't happen on top of paint, only under it,....



Then use Rustoleum's own bare aluminum primer on the bare metal, 'n Rustoleum's own primer for the painted areas,...

Awesome! Thanks for the info! I think you are right on the mineral build up then. Hopefully I can get that all cleaned up and shined up like new by spring!

 

[Scott Danforth]

use kaboom toilet bowl cleaner or sno-bowl toilet bowl cleaner for the mineral buildup

 

[JASinIL2006]

CLR works great on removing the scale, too.

 

[mickyryan]

also don't over sand keep as much good paint on it as you can and use self etching primer rustolium , it worked very well for me

 

[harleyman1975]

Using a catalyzed paint and a zinc chromate primer are a must for painting a lower unit/outdrive. only certain primers will stick to aluminum (such as Zinc chromate, epoxy, self etching, ect...) and a enamel with a hardener will stand up to the water much better than a rattle can will. sounds like you want to do it the "right" way. You can do it with different /less expensive products but you will not be satisfied with the results a year from now.

 

[achris]

^^^ +1

In the past I have used 'rattle cans' to repaint oil pans, and a couple of years later they are tatty again. When I replaced the cast ali oil pan on my V6 I used a Zinc Chromate primer, then a 2 pack spray-on gloss black. Never used a spray gun before, so it was all new to me. That was about 4-1/2 years ago, still looks as good as the day I fitted it.... (and still no oil leaks :thumb

My 0.02

Chris......

 

[gm280]

The actual painting portion of the ordeal is actually the icing on the cake sort to speak. You will spend the majority of your time prepping the metal if you want it to stay on. If you seriously want a very nice glossy finish that will hold up for the long run, you have to remove the old paint, clean the metal and then use the appropriate primer followed by a capitalized paint with or without a clear coat or coats. JMHO

 

[Watermann]

I suggest you clean the OD first to see how it looks before deciding to re-paint it. If the paint is intact under the mineral build up then don't go sanding it off just to put on some spray paint.