Is this sterndrive worth a 2 hour drive?

jimrockireland

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I've been communicating with a craigslist seller who has a never used SEI sterndrive for sale at $550. He ordered it for a 1979 boat with a 228 HP Mercruiser motor and found out his transom was rotten so has never used it. I have a 1983 MCM228R (serial #6285627 ) with an "R" drive (serial #6289715). The pictures he has sent me look likes it's a match for what I presently have. I asked him for a serial number, but he claims they never sent him one. My gear ratio is 1.50:1 so I can rotate my present sterndrive (which is off the boat) and measure the prop rotation, I could do the same for his sterndrive to see if they match. Does this sound like something I should drive 2 hours to check out?
 

Scott Danforth

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I drove 15 hours for Pizza, I would already be in the car with sandwiches and a cooler of mountain dew to take a look

In short..... Yes.....now get going
 

wrench 3

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If he got an Alpha One drive to replace his older one, then yes. But I wouldn't downgrade yours to the older style.
 

jimrockireland

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I did get some more info. He ordered it in 2013 and never used it. The gear ration is 1.47:1 and is good for years 1978-1982. My gear ratio is 1.50:1 and a 1983. How much difference ( other than gear ratio) is there between these years?
 

jimrockireland

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Another question. I was reading some forum topics and found one that said one of the differences between a "R" drive and earlier drives was the length of the splined yoke. The "R" drive has a 9 and 9/16" length and earlier drives have a 8 and 1/8" length - not compatible. Is this correct?:
 

Bondo

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Ayuh,.... The MC-1 drives used with the in-line GM motors are the only ones with the shorter input shaft,....
 

wrench 3

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A .03 difference in the ratio probably wouldn't make a noticeable difference in the performance. However, you serial number matches up to an Alpha One drive. 1982 and prior was using a 1-R drive. The main internal difference in the drives was a larger bearing and shaft diameter at the bottom of the vertical shaft in the Alpha One. This was done to solve the problem that the 1-R drives had of breaking the pinion gear off of the bottom of the vertical shaft.
 

jimrockireland

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I was told I had an "R" drive by someone on this website, but I really don't know myself. So it sounds like this drive I am considering buying is possibly an "R" drive. I'm going up Sunday to look at it and if everything matches up externally I'll buy it. Thanks to all for your input. .
 

Scott Danforth

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You sure someone else is not already in the car to look at it
 

jimbo_jwc

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No Title

photo255969.jpg
 

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wrench 3

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Item #3 in jimbo's picture is for an Alpha drive. The one for the R drive had a large ring cast into it, like a lift eye.
 

jimrockireland

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Item #3 in jimbo's picture #1 is exactly what I have. It has the lift eye cast into it, but it is square - not a ring. Looking at the serial #'s in picture #2 it is impossible to distinguish between an R, MR or alpha1. My drive was from a 1983 boat. I bought it in 2012 and someone on this forum gave me the serial # that I'm guessing matched my engine. All the original identifiers are not visible anymore.. The serial # I was told was 6289715. Based on picture @2 for years 1983-1990 and serial #'s 6225577-0D469828 it could be an R, MR, or alpha1.
 

jimbo_jwc

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photo256017.jpg My old one was the 228 w 5.0L w lift rig 15X15 prop and the SEI 106 is what I replaced it with .
 
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jimrockireland

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This is what I have and it is different.
 

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jimrockireland

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When I first bought this boat the bearing in the upper unit drive shaft was broken. I bought a bearing and had it pressed on the shaft but had to have a marine mechanic set up the shimming under the top plate because I didn't have the tools or know how to properly shim it. I was told by the mechanic it failed the pressure test when he completed his work. At the time I was swapping out the engine and was just looking for a functioning sterndrive to verify the engine was functioning I didn't ask where the pressure was being lost. I also noted the top drive shaft gear had a nick in it.My sterndrive fails the pressure test - has water in the oil - is not pumping water properly - a d has a nick in the upper unit drive gear.
 

jimrockireland

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Ignore my previous post. I hit the wrong button before I had finished it. My present sterndrive fails the pressure test - has a nick in the top driveshaft gear - has water in the oil - has oil leaking out of the upper unit through the yoke assembly - is not pumping sufficient water. I was reading up on replacing seals and gaskets and am not sure I have the skills and/or tools to do the job. Checking around, the estimate I got to go through the sterndrive and fix what was needed was $800. I could buy a rebuilt drive with a 90 day warranty for $800. I could go the SEI route for a 3 year warranty and $1300. I thought this drive on craigslist for $550 was my best option. I have an appointment with the owner Sunday to take a look at it and make a decision. If it is a match I'll buy it. Additionalyy I plan to dig into my old drive and if possible fix what I can and use it as a back-up.
 

wrench 3

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If the $800 includes new gears and the guy knows what he's doing I'd go with that. Then again I'd fix it myself, but that's beside the point.
If the $550 unit is a 1-R I'd forget about it and spend the extra bucks to stay with the stronger drive.

BTW if there is a problem with one of your posts you can click on "edit" at the bottom of the post and you can change whatever you want, or just continue from were you left off.
 
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