Wiring question at the motor -- 94' Merc 4.3 - disconnected wires

Spiderhole

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Hello, I recently picked up a Wellcraft 196S in non-running condition. Long story short, I got it started today but it starts hard and won't stay running. It's been sitting for over a year, so I think the fuel may be a problem.

Upon further inspection, I found some disconnected wires. I am trying to determine what they are, and if the fact that they are disconnected is a problem. There are multiple other things I need to address, but I want to get the motor reliably running before I tackle some of the other problems - for example, the trim does not appear to go up, only down.

I am going to download the wiring diagram, but I would appreciate any help on understanding what these disconnected wire are, and where they need to be connected. The brown and black wire are at the back of the carb on the passenger side. The purple wire is also at the back of the carb on the drivers side.
 

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achris

More fish than mountain goat
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The purple wire near the carb is for an electric choke, you have hot-stove choke (so not used). Does the brown wire have a white stripe on it? If so, it's for the trim gauge.

Chris......
 

savetexomabeaches

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Empty old fuel, plugs, carb kit, all the tune up stuff.. drive oil, impeller, etc.. swap relays on trim pump to see if it will go down instead of up. if so, bad relay.
 

Spiderhole

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Is there a process for emptying the old fuel?

The brown wire is solid. It has a female connector. The black wire is also solid and has a male connector.

BTW - the circuit breaker next to my hand in the picture... it say's something to the effect of "push to reset" - what is the purpose of this breaker?
 

Bt Doctur

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the 50A circuit breaker is the main protection for the wiring. It supplies all the power required for all the systems
 

savetexomabeaches

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the breaker keeps the alternator and stuff from overloading. to remove old fuel, what I personally do is unhook the fuel hose going to my fuel pump and hook the line to an electrical pump with long leads on it and pump the fuel into barrels. I just had to pump out 78 gallons from a chaparral, long long process lol and Im wanting to say that brown and black wire are for the trim gauge.. are there 2 wires hanging down from the housing that you can see?
 

Spiderhole

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I stand corrected... that brown wire upon further inspection DOES have a white stripe. I assume then it is for the trim gauge. Where does these two wires connect? What is the black wire for?

I see the previous owner has crimped wires together in some places, so thing should be fun getting all the electrical straightened back out.
 

achris

More fish than mountain goat
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The brown/white and the black are the 'instrument panel' side of the circuit. The brown/white runs to the 'S' (sender) terminal at the back of the gauge, the black connects to engine/harness ground. 2 black wires come through the inner transom plate from the sender (round 'disc' thing on the starboard side of the gimbal ring) which plug into those bullet connectors. Just make sure you have the sender and not the trim limit switch wires, also black, but with a coloured sleeve on them. Nothing bad will happen if you do accidentally plug the limit switch wires into the sender wires on the harness, just the gauge will become 'digital', only full UP and full DOWN. :lol:

Chris......
 

Spiderhole

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OK cool, I will get in there and check it out

Also, how many cranking amps do I need for the battery? Is there a recommended battery? I have a captain Start brand in there with 650, but I kind of feel like it is not the right thing (as in it is a cheap battery).
 

Spiderhole

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...I will take some more pics tomorrow during the day light

Thanks for your help guys
 

achris

More fish than mountain goat
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Battery should be 'Marine' or 'RV' due to the pounding they get... 650cca is fine for that engine, but it's highly recommended you set up a dual battery system.
 

Spiderhole

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Good afternoon guys, I put my battery on the charger and got it fired up literally almost instantly. It ran for about 15 seconds then died. It seems to be able to start pretty easily but won't stay running. I think it's probably primarily from sitting for so long. I wanted to give it a little throttle, but I am not sure if the control is working as well as it should be. I assume the button that says push for throttle only disconnect the drive and when you pull the red handle and push it forward the throttle is all that should engage? The throttle on the Grady white I am used to functions similarly. It seems like that button sticks a little.

I am still failing to see where the trim wires (brown/white stripe & black) connect? I didn't a lot of time over the last two days to really tackle the problem though. Would the trim gauge actually effect the trim from working? As I stated earlier, but trim does not go up - I intent to swap the relays around and see if that identifies the problem.

After looking under the console, there is a lot of stuff I want to identify and clean up. They have disconnected the safety lanyard.

Also, the main circuit breaker where is says push to reset... it does not appear to reset when I push it? It doesn't appear to move at all? Is that because it would actually have to trip?

Here's some picks. Does anything jump out at you all?

Sorry for all my questions guys - I am new to this
 

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Fun Times

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I wanted to give it a little throttle, but I am not sure if the control is working as well as it should be. I assume the button that says push for throttle only disconnect the drive and when you pull the red handle and push it forward the throttle is all that should engage? The throttle on the Grady white I am used to functions similarly.
Correct. Just push the button inwards, lift the red handle and move forward to engage higher throttle setting/RPM. The button disconnects shifting into gear... You should hear the button pop back out with a click type sound when you bring the handle back up to the straight up neutral position.

I am still failing to see where the trim wires (brown/white stripe & black) connect?
In one of the photos where you show the back transom area behind the engine ( http://forums.iboats.com/filedata/fe...otoid=10308043 ) ...There are two sets of black wires coming from the middle transom assembly area.. One of the sets of wires are for the trim gauge and the other is for the trim limit height.. One set connects to the two wires in question which is the Tan/White and Black wires in your hand...
Plus there's another set of wires inside the boat sometimes even harder to find that connect to the other set of black wires coming from the transom assembly. On the outside of the boat mounted to the gimbal ring you should see two black round pucks that resemble these in a how to fix the trim sending units video > https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dVSNXYpWJVI

Would the trim gauge actually effect the trim from working? As I stated earlier, but trim does not go up - I intent to swap the relays around and see if that identifies the problem.
If the trim limit sending unit isn't working or adjusted correctly plus depending on what trim/trailer up button at the shift handle you are using, the trim limit sending unit could keep the drive from coming up while using the trim up button... The trailer button should be overriding a failed trim up limit sending unit though.

When the system is working correctly, The trim up button which is the up/down button at the top of the shift handle will only bring the drive roughly halfway up from a near/or full down position and automatically stop. Once you reach the up limit you have to use the rubber trailer button in order to override the trim up limit in order to bring the drive up the rest of the way... Of course bearing in mind that the trailer button will/should also work to bring the drive all the way up from any position it's in at the moment.
If the rubber trailer button isn't working then you'll need to go much further into you troubleshooting shooting diagnostics.

Most likely the trim sending units will still need to be replaced if you'd like them to work again as they tend to not last a very long time and if someone already bypassed the wiring then they likely failed on the pervious owners/s.

After looking under the console, there is a lot of stuff I want to identify and clean up. They have disconnected the safety lanyard.
As for the safety lanyard kill switch, you'll want to ohms test the switch wiring terminals to see if the switch seems to be working correctly or not since someone bypassed the switch connecting the two Purple wire together. Pretty sure new switches are still available from Mercruiser if needed. Let us know as the part number can be located online.

Also, the main circuit breaker where is says push to reset... it does not appear to reset when I push it? It doesn't appear to move at all? Is that because it would actually have to trip?
Using a multimeter on the voltage scale, test to see if 12v power is present at both wire terminals at the rear of the circuit breaker in order to know if it's working or not...If it's tripped, only one side would show 12v power. That mentioned, yes if it's tripped then it would move for a reset. Not moving should indicate it's working. But for learning purposes to get to know the wiring systems, test it anyway with a multimeter.;)

Sorry for all my questions guys - I am new to this
At times, We're all learning this together my friend.:encouragement:

PS, the white thing mounted on the rear transom is called a bilge blower to help remove gas fumes before engine start up...Safety first.:) http://www.iboats.com/Boat-Parts-Acc...Bilge%20blower

Make sure your bilge pump to remove water is working too, http://www.iboats.com/Boat-Parts-Ac...searched.1--session_id.542087146&q=Bilge pump
 
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savetexomabeaches

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Ok, are you running this thing on muffs? And is the drive down while you are starting it???? Please make sure you are doing that.
Also, see pics
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image_255516.jpg
image_255517.jpg
 

savetexomabeaches

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Most of the time, trim gauges fail and never work correctly. As for the kill switch, eh, you can fix that too. They sell them pretty cheap, just plug the purple wires onto it. But really, need to get that trim pump working so you can raise and lower the drive. Dont want to be running it with it up. Something else you can do, if you have a spare fuel tank is to unhook your main tank and hook the spare tank up to it with a hefty dose of cleaner and run the boat on that.
 

Spiderhole

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Guys, thank you both very much. This is extremely helpful. Yes, I do have the muffs and water running to it when I have started it - definitely understand the importance of this. What do you mean by the drive being down?
 

Fun Times

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What do you mean by the drive being down?
Before starting the engine, it's always best to lower the stern drive to help avoid damage to the U-joints and U-joints bellows found on the input shaft of the upper drive shaft housing and behind the bell housing assembly. Lower the drive to near level or under the trim up max limit setting usually noticed when the trim limit sending units are working correctly.

http://forums.iboats.com/forum/engin...er-alpha-drive
http://www.sterndrives.com/supplies/mdtips06.html

See item number 13, http://www.mercruiserparts.com/bam/s.../30872/2203/70
And number 12, http://www.mercruiserparts.com/bam/s.../30872/2203/60
 

savetexomabeaches

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The drive needs to be in the lower/down position while running the boat. If its raised up, you're putting the gimbal and shaft, u-joints in a bind nono.jpg

If you need to, lower the front trailer jack ALL the way down, so you can lower the drive down.. Don't let it touch the ground or anything, but get it kinda close
 
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Spiderhole

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Oh joy. So in you all's (or as we say here in Dallas "y'all's) opinion... have I done damage to my setup by running it twice with the drive not all the way down? Each time it did not run for long, certainly not long enough to get the motor hot. My concern additionally, is I know I can lower the drive down, but as we've discussed, it doesn't appear at least initially to want to go back up.

...I may also add... I did not put it in gear. Not sure if that is relevant information
 
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