Buying used Alpha 1 Gen 2 Outdrive-​What to check?

enginesilo

Petty Officer 1st Class
Joined
Jun 9, 2008
Messages
355
I'm considering buying an Alpha 1 Gen 2 someone has for sale. I don't need it now, but figure at the right price it may be worth having a spare on hand. I think I can get it for $100 so it seems like its worth taking a chance.

What are some things I should check? I was thinking:

-Check to see if it shifts Forward/Neutral/Reverse
-Check its surface for too much pitting or neglect
-Look for oil leaks in the bottom/middle/top areas
-It was paired with a 3.0L, which I also have, so i'm guessing the gear ratio is ok?
-Check to see how the U-Joint area looks
-Will assume it will need a new water pump at the minimum
-Hoping it will not need new internal gears or internal seals and am hoping a shift test, and no visible oil leaks. If it needs shift shaft seal or any of those easily accessible seals I'd be fine, but if it needs those inner seals that require taking the entire lower apart that wouldn't be cool.

If the seller was willing I'd consider doing a pressure test, but I double he'd want me to drain it and I don't think I want to take the time. So i'll probably have to just do a visual to see if there are any leaky areas. It has sat for a while so if there are any leaks I'd think they will be visible with some leaky oil.

For the price its probably worth the chance if it shifts and there are no visible leaks.

Anything i'm missing anything?
 

Starcraft5834

Lieutenant Commander
Joined
Jun 2, 2013
Messages
1,677
pop off the top cap and look at the upper gears.. just bolted down at 4 points.. should be just oil in there... of course when you peek if there's not much oil in there u might have a problem,, drain out some of the oil from the lower screw and see what color it is...any shavings pouring out too? im assuming of course this has not been removed from the boat yet? if it has, stand it up on a bench somehow and look... general shape? skeg intact? or major dings? will tell u if prop has been whacked hard... which could damage prop shaft.. newer props can be put on to cover up such damage, skegs not so.... unless it's been welded up.... $100 bucks.. a steal!! grab it and run if ok.. be cautious of seeminly great deals.. not saying it's stolen..... just be careful,. CL for instance is full of such things
 
Last edited:

enginesilo

Petty Officer 1st Class
Joined
Jun 9, 2008
Messages
355
pop off the top cap and look at the upper gears.. just bolted down at 4 points.. should be just oil in there... of course when you peek if there's not much oil in there u might have a problem,, drain out some of the oil from the lower screw and see what color it is...any shavings pouring out too? im assuming of course this has not been removed from the boat yet? if it has, stand it up on a bench somehow and look... general shape? skeg intact? or major dings? will tell u if prop has been whacked hard... which could damage prop shaft.. newer props can be put on to cover up such damage, skegs not so.... unless it's been welded up.... $100 bucks.. a steal!! grab it and run if ok.. be cautious of seeminly great deals.. not saying it's stolen..... just be careful,. CL for instance is full of such things
So that top cap comes off to reveal 4 screws? Any gasket required or can you re-use the gasket? Good tip on draining some oil, I was planning on pulling to see what is on the end of the magnet screw, and to see if its all milky or what not. I'm assuming that if the drive was stored without a lot of oil for a prolonged period that's bad and may have internal surface rusk? Not sure if this is the case but you never know I guess if someone drained and left it.

Can't tell from the pics but it has an old prop on it I was told, and it definitely has some surface corrosion. Looks like its probably been in salt water but that doesn't scare me completely, as I've sanded and made scary looking drives look half decent with some sanding/painting. The drive looks like its been off the boat and on its side for I don't know how long. Not sure if that oil on the floor is from the drive or not....
http://imgur.com/a/O8AIB

In this case seeing in person will definitely tell its story. I can easily split the upper and lower and change out any of the inner seals there, but if it comes to needing actual internal gears or the inner seals that can't easily be reached it would be a bust for me.
 

Scott06

Vice Admiral
Joined
Apr 20, 2014
Messages
5,652
Why is it no longer attached to a working boat? If it shifts ok and passes a pressure test it would be worth it, but yes does look a little beat up by salt. Poping the top will definitely tell good info, but s lower might not be thrilled about that if they aren't knowledgeable about drives
 

Starcraft5834

Lieutenant Commander
Joined
Jun 2, 2013
Messages
1,677
top cap is 4 nuts (bolts actually), bring a small socket set with u, those nuts are 1/4 in. maybe.. since it's been on it's side, prop it up on a bench or something, or in a big vice clamp it by the skeg and open it up and look at the upper gears in there... keeping oil in it is far better than empty... water condensation will collect without oil, that can freeze if a lot of water is in there...ice is never good. unless it's a little bit of ice and has not expanded to push stuff around... check the prop shaft for damage by spinning the prop, keep your eye on the little milled hole in the center of the prop shaft, if it "wobbles" the shaft is bent.. avoid it.. if it spins and the little milled hole stays round.. little to no wobble, the shaft is ok... good luck
 

Pete104

Lieutenant
Joined
Apr 30, 2011
Messages
1,439
Why is it no longer attached to a working boat? If it shifts ok and passes a pressure test it would be worth it, but yes does look a little beat up by salt. Poping the top will definitely tell good info, but s lower might not be thrilled about that if they aren't knowledgeable about drives

Just the looks of that drive are enough for me to keep looking. And sometimes I don't care how ugly she is!
 

savetexomabeaches

Chief Petty Officer
Joined
Jul 4, 2013
Messages
420
$100 for a gen 2??? If its not cracked, or has been welded, I'd grab that sucker and run.. I wouldn't worry about the internals or gears, the housing alone is worth a pretty penny. And for it to be a 3.0, the top end should be 1.98 gear ratio.

Get it home, then let's go through it to see if its A) good to go or B) needs rebuilt lol
 
Top