First time winterizing 4.3

[bashr52]

The last two nights after work I have worked on getting my 1994 alpha drive 4.3 winterized (2 barrel version) for the first time. I've changed the oil and filter, fuel/water filter, plugs, wires, cap, and rotor. I pulled the 2 drain plugs off the exhaust manifolds and 2 lower ones off the block. I pushed a wire up inside of all 4 and found some debris in the port side block drain that allowed the water to pour out rather than trickle, the others were all clear. I want to be 100% sure all the water is out, what am I missing or what more can be done? I would imagine there is still some water inside the water circulation pump, is there a drain or do I just pull a hose? Water in the T-stat housing?

Also, leave drain plugs out and tag the ignition switch to reinstall in the spring, or put them back in? I was thinking with them out air may be able to get into the passages better and dry out and moisture and/or give a place for water to escape that may still be trapped in there when the boat is parked with the nose up for the winter....

 

[youmansjason]

One thing I like to do once I think I have all of the water drained out is pull the kill switch (or the distributor coil wire) so the engine won't actually start, and then turn the key and let the engine turn over for 2-3 seconds. That will help purge out any remaining water in the water pump.

Also, if you didn't replace the gear lube in your outdrive, you may want to consider draining and replacing that as well.

 

[bman440440]

zip tie the drain plugs to your key that way you cant forget them... and pull the big hose off the water pump and leave off... also pull the hose off your power steering cooler at the back of your engine... either side is fine but me I would pull the side that comes from the transom... doing that should get all the water out of your engine... if your really anal like me take a shop vac and put the hose on the exhaust side of the vac and the other end of it into the hose you pulled off the water pump and run the vac for 10 mins to blow out the system completely... that's my 2c take it for what its worth. op2:

 

[JASinIL2006]

The last two nights after work I have worked on getting my 1994 alpha drive 4.3 winterized (2 barrel version) for the first time. I've changed the oil and filter, fuel/water filter, plugs, wires, cap, and rotor. I pulled the 2 drain plugs off the exhaust manifolds and 2 lower ones off the block. I pushed a wire up inside of all 4 and found some debris in the port side block drain that allowed the water to pour out rather than trickle, the others were all clear. I want to be 100% sure all the water is out, what am I missing or what more can be done? I would imagine there is still some water inside the water circulation pump, is there a drain or do I just pull a hose? Water in the T-stat housing?

Also, leave drain plugs out and tag the ignition switch to reinstall in the spring, or put them back in? I was thinking with them out air may be able to get into the passages better and dry out and moisture and/or give a place for water to escape that may still be trapped in there when the boat is parked with the nose up for the winter....

I pull off the J-shaped hose that goes to the circulating pump; it can hold a lot of water.

As for the drain plugs, if you're referring to the drain plugs you pulled from the engine block and manifolds, after the water has drained, you'd be best off putting them back in. Otherwise, the threads can rust over the winter and you'll have a devil of a time getting them to go in come Spring.

The main drain plug for the boat (to drain the bilge) can be left out, of course, to allow any water that finds its way into the boat a way to exit.

Jim

 

[stonyloam]

If you do not change the outdrive oil, at least pull the bottom drain plug and drain out a little oil (an oz. or so). Check the magnet for filings. if water or milky oil comes out you will want to drain it and find out where the leak is. If the oil is clear and clean you should be OK, change it or top it off depending on how much use the boat has seen the past summer.

 

[Bt Doctur]

I pull the block drains and probe to insure a clean drain, pull the plugs or the hoses on the manifolds , remove the circ hose from the T-Stat and bend downward.Reinstall all plugs .
Then I pour the AF into the large hose untill it comes out the T stat, then reattach the hose. About 2 1/4 Gal in the engine., then approx a 1/2 gal each exaust manifold hose,
If you have the "cool fuel unit" it must be drained also

 

[bashr52]

Great, thanks, I will pull the hoses and start draining. I'm also planning on shooting some compressed air into the passages to flush any remaining out. May throw in a little antifreeze too for good measure if I'm feeling really unsure I got everything.

Outdrive is coming off so I can work on it over the winter, I have an oil leak I need to track down and fix. Doing bellows and gimbal bearing as well while it is apart.

 

[stonyloam]

If you are doing the bellows, do the lower shift cable as well (OEM) and make sure that your trim limit switch and wires are in good shape. Now is the time to do it. If your exhaust bellows are in good shape you could consider reusing it and putting the savings toward OEM driveshaft bellows.

 

[JoLin]

I pull the block drains and probe to insure a clean drain, pull the plugs or the hoses on the manifolds , remove the circ hose from the T-Stat and bend downward.Reinstall all plugs .
Then I pour the AF into the large hose untill it comes out the T stat, then reattach the hose. About 2 1/4 Gal in the engine., then approx a 1/2 gal each exaust manifold hose,
If you have the "cool fuel unit" it must be drained also

OP's boat is similar to mine (1992 carbed) so I don't think he has the cool fuel thingie. I do what BT does, plus... it's hard for me to drain my PS cooler (just can't reach down there anymore), so I pull that hose at the t-stat housing and pour 1/2 gallon of AF into it. That displaces the water. You'll see the 'pink' run out the bottom of the drive.

 

[Lou C]

I pull the block drains and probe to insure a clean drain, pull the plugs or the hoses on the manifolds , remove the circ hose from the T-Stat and bend downward.Reinstall all plugs .
Then I pour the AF into the large hose untill it comes out the T stat, then reattach the hose. About 2 1/4 Gal in the engine., then approx a 1/2 gal each exaust manifold hose,
If you have the "cool fuel unit" it must be drained also

This is exactly how I have always done it and in my OMC manuals it also lists adding AF as an optional step in the winterizing process. As an aside, you do not have to remove the 'stat if filling the engine this way, all you need to do is fill it from the top end of the big hose and as soon as AF comes out the neck of the t stat housing re-connect the top end of that hose.

Another thing is that some engines have power steering coolers on the back side of the engine (many OMCs and Volvos made during the VP/OMC joint venture era). They are in-line with the hose that comes from the transom mount to the t-stat housing. There is a drain plug on these but its pretty hard to get at. I hold the hose from the transom mount to the t-stat housing down to drain, and then with the outdrive all the way down, I fill it with -100 marine AF till it runs out the drive water intakes. This pushes water out of the p/s cooler and the impeller housing.

One last thing, if your exhaust mani drain is right above the starter, cover it with a plastic bag when draining, because while they are ignition protected they are not water proof. Keeping water out of them makes them last much longer.

 

[Rick Stephens]

.. it's hard for me to drain my PS cooler (just can't reach down there anymore

I had that problem with my newly installed 4.3. I picked up a inline drain, Merc part #861505 that Merc added to later models like the MPI 5.0L, cut the hose a couple inches transom side of the PS cooler and installed it. Now I can just pull the little blue plug (which I had to order separately) and get the Cooler and line drained in seconds. Note, the drain is made for a teensy bit bigger hose ID than the middle of the OEM water inlet hose off the 4.3 transom. I used a brand new hose and a few BTUs from a heat gun to get the hose on. Came out pretty slick though.

 

[JoLin]

Nice mod, Rick,

 

[Lou C]

I like that!

 

[JASinIL2006]

I had that problem with my newly installed 4.3. I picked up a inline drain, Merc part #861505 that Merc added to later models like the MPI 5.0L, cut the hose a couple inches transom side of the PS cooler and installed it. Now I can just pull the little blue plug (which I had to order separately) and get the Cooler and line drained in seconds. Note, the drain is made for a teensy bit bigger hose ID than the middle of the OEM water inlet hose off the 4.3 transom. I used a brand new hose and a few BTUs from a heat gun to get the hose on. Came out pretty slick though.

I'm going to do that! Wonder if that part would fit the hose on a 5.7/350 Mag?

 

[Bt Doctur]

You might want to reinstall the block drain to keep the threads from rusting up

 

[Rick Stephens]

I'm going to do that! Wonder if that part would fit the hose on a 5.7/350 Mag?

OD on the fitting is 1.25". It was a little stretch to fit my 4.3 intake line over it. A little vaseline, a heat gun and one bloody knuckle. Good thing it went on, I cut a brand new hose up without measuring first. Could a been a senior moment.

 

[bashr52]

If you are doing the bellows, do the lower shift cable as well (OEM) and make sure that your trim limit switch and wires are in good shape. Now is the time to do it. If your exhaust bellows are in good shape you could consider reusing it and putting the savings toward OEM driveshaft bellows.

I will definitely be checking the limit switch, whoever had the drive off last time (likely when the engine was changed) left the speedometer unhooked, and the trim gauge no longer works. I'm slowly diagnosing/fixing wiring issues as I go, so things like this I will be looking at for sure.

 

[Oshkosh1]

Just hibernated my boat last weekend. Took 15min or so. Pulled 4 drain plugs(2block/2manifold), disconnected the PS hose and WP hose. Left both of them disconnected. Pulled the T-Stat cover along with the hoses and cleaned up the ball check valves also. I also re-installed the drain plugs to prevent the threads from rusting. I coated the threads with a little grease prior to install as well.

Pulling the hoses is a good idea, it gives you a chance to check them out and look for any potential soft spots and ensure the clamps are still good.

 

[bspeth]

I like that Rick

 

[bashr52]

I pulled the output hose from the circulation pump last night, there was a bit of water in there. Pulled both output hoses from the t-stat housing, dumped them out and then blew compressed air into both of them to fully drain the block/hoses. There is still a little bit of water in the lower bent sections of the output hoses, but I'm not terribly concerned about that. All hose re-connected and drain plugs back in.

What about the PS cooler that is inline with the water inlet from the impeller? I'm sure there may be a bit of water left in the inlet side.