Need a high torque starter

[alldodge]

Going to be going thru a bunch of stuff this winter and one of the items is the starter. Did all the cable checks, both ends and replaced the starter battery just in case, no change. Only thing not done is replace or bypass the battery switch, and that to is on the list. In any case I think since I'm either pulling the motor or removing a bunch of stuff to get it to the point so I can fix some stuff, think I'll just replace the starter.

Looking for a small frame high torque one. In another forum threads the API was mentioned, but the model number is no longer available. Anyone have any which would be recommended?

 

[Bt Doctur]

Arco 30470

 

[boatman37]

i had a McLeod on my race cars years ago. very compact and high torque. i joked that it spun so quick it started before i got in the car...lol. i'm not sure if there is a difference for marine applications though

https://www.summitracing.com/search...ortorder=Ascending&keyword=starter&kr=starter

https://www.summitracing.com/parts/mcl-810152

 

[alldodge]

Thanks guys, and boatman I've looked at those but they have to be marine rated to use

 

[Scott Danforth]

AD, what symptoms do you have? slow crank?

what run length and diameter of cable are you running? upping to a 0000 cable will help immensely.

Hardin sells some high-torque starters, however they are nowhere impressive with the numbers based on what one can get for a non-marine application http://www.hardin-marine.com/c-1227-starters.aspx?pagenum=1

Teague list the MSD http://teaguecustommarine.com/em0011/high-torque-starters.html however I dont see where that is J1171 compliant https://www.msdperformance.com/products/starters_and_alternators/starters/parts/5095

 

[alldodge]

The new motor cranks slow, I think part of it is from the higher compression and the other may just be an old worn starter. The first start does the grown and slow crank and after one revolution it cranks faster. The second and repeated crank doesn't even make it a 1/2 turn before it fires up.

I have several things I need to get into which will require me to disassemble part or the motor or pull it, so figured I would just replace the starter while I'm at it. Kind of peeved at the lack of attention to detail with the motor build so I need to get into this winter

 

[gm280]

AllDodge, I've seen planetary gear type high torque starters, but never one for marine applications. Hope you can locate something to work. If it does crank fairy easy, have you thought about applying 24 volts to your starter? I know that doesn't sound like a good idea, but since it is only for a extremely short time, it could work. :noidea:

 

[Scott Danforth]

AD, most of the starter cables recommended for starters are NOT what is supplied on boats. for a 3' total length, 4 gauge is what is recommended. for a 7' length 00 is recommended. I know in my boat alone, the length of cables from starter battey thru switch to starter and back is about 11 feet. I will be upping to 0000 cable with the pork chop motor

 

[alldodge]

Thanks, but don't want to go the 24V route. My issue may just be that it's an old starter. If it wasn't so hard to replace I would have done it already. The local starter rebuild place can do their thing, but they have no way to test the hp/tq output. Guess I'll probably go for the arco one unless another shows up.

On OSO BUP mentioned an API modle but this was an old thread and they no longer make the same one. Need a small frame style.

 

[alldodge]

Agree Scott most manufactures put in bare minimum, Formula uses larger cables. I installed a second ground cable a while back. Before the rebuild it would crank over fast and afterwards not so much. Some of my pats turned up missing/misplaced during the build so I'm uncertain if this was my original. It probably is, this just has some more compression and double valve springs

 

[Scott Danforth]

AD, did you look at the 1.4kw hardin units? the MSD is a 2.2kw (3hp) however the only marine site I see it on is Teague's. have you checked the OSO classifieds?

 

[alldodge]

Haven't checked the classifieds, and have looked at Teague and Hardin. Guess could call them and ask, the high output ones look kind of large and there just isn't that much room

 

[Scott Danforth]

they should be actually smaller than your current PMGR.

 

[fishrdan]

Have you checked the voltage at the starter while cranking the engine? I'd start there before taking anything apart, even if planning to replace the starter, might help to identify if there are cable or grounding issues.

 

[alldodge]

Haven't done that on this go around, motor was just installed and everything was checked during install. Did check the voltage at the battery, the starter have to hang upside down to get something on it.

 

[Baylinerchuck]

The planetary gears were all jacked up on the ARCO starter in my 4.3L. The PO paid his marina to put it on 10 years ago, as he saved the receipts. Anyway, I purchased a replacement from EMSGlobal direct on EBAY. The same high torque starter fits the 4.3L to the 8.2L and is marine coated. Under $100.00!! I installed it in July and it works great. Just another alternative.

 

[alldodge]

I'm getting a ATI HD starter with steel gears from a dealer on OSO, should have plenty of torque. Only issue with steel gears it can break the flywheel teeth if it hydrolocks (hope that never happens

 

[Rick Stephens]

If you can find a rebuild kit they do wonders to an old starter. I did my kids 300-six Ford pickup starter with a kit I picked up for $15 off Amazon. Been working perfectly for 6 months. I was skeptical of a $15 kit, but it had everything in it and of obvious good quality and fit. Beat a $100 new starter and I KNOW his current starter is going to keep right on spinning after I personally did the rebuild.

 

[alldodge]

Agree, Rick I've rebuilt them before, but don't know if there are some burn windings. The main reason is its a high compression motor and is a PITA big time to replace, so want to do it and not have to worry about it.

 

[Rick Stephens]

Agree, Rick I've rebuilt them before, but don't know if there are some burn windings. The main reason is its a high compression motor and is a PITA big time to replace, so want to do it and not have to worry about it.

That makes sense. Beats hell out of predicting when (and where) it will fail.