1997 MerCruiser 4.3LX (GEN +) (2 BBL.) GM 262 V-6
Where does +12v come from once engine is running? Generator, right?
Symptoms: Engine starts, runs for a minute then quits. Wait a minute or two and it starts and runs 10 or 15 seconds then quits.
The way I understand the system... You turn key which gets +12v from the battery and sends it to the fuel pump runs, (I can both hear and feel it running.) Continue to rotate the key and the engine starts. At this point when the key is released the +12v now comes thru the oil pressure switch (that is a normally closed, if you loose pressure the switch opens shutting the power to the fuel pump stopping engine.
If the switch was bad the engine would run till the float bowl emptied and quit, just like my symptoms. If you pulled the OP switch leads and jumped them simulating a good switch the engine should stay running if that's the problem... well it doesn't. Even replaced switch, of course to no avail.
An online tech suggested the carb needed cleaning because it was flooding the engine and stalling it. Rebuilt carb with the exception of removing the "T" keeper, spring and ball. Put everything back together and you guessed it... still the same. No water in separator or carb when puller.
What's the chances of the Generator going bad so there is no +12v at the OP switch?
Thanks for help, laughter not welcome at this point.
Where does +12v come from once engine is running? Generator, right?
Symptoms: Engine starts, runs for a minute then quits. Wait a minute or two and it starts and runs 10 or 15 seconds then quits.
The way I understand the system... You turn key which gets +12v from the battery and sends it to the fuel pump runs, (I can both hear and feel it running.) Continue to rotate the key and the engine starts. At this point when the key is released the +12v now comes thru the oil pressure switch (that is a normally closed, if you loose pressure the switch opens shutting the power to the fuel pump stopping engine.
If the switch was bad the engine would run till the float bowl emptied and quit, just like my symptoms. If you pulled the OP switch leads and jumped them simulating a good switch the engine should stay running if that's the problem... well it doesn't. Even replaced switch, of course to no avail.
An online tech suggested the carb needed cleaning because it was flooding the engine and stalling it. Rebuilt carb with the exception of removing the "T" keeper, spring and ball. Put everything back together and you guessed it... still the same. No water in separator or carb when puller.
What's the chances of the Generator going bad so there is no +12v at the OP switch?
Thanks for help, laughter not welcome at this point.