B3 delayed shift

[scoflaw]

2006 drive with 600 hours. Recently started to get a delayed shift in forward maybe 1 or 2 seconds. Not sure if I should tear into it this winter or wait until it gets worst. HiPo merc fluid is always very dark after a 100 hours. Other drive is fine with same dark oil.​Assuming it's the clutch failing.

Question is can just replacing the clutch resolve my issue or will the gear need to be replaced as well? Also will it be obvious to notice a worn clutch once I have it out ?

 

[alldodge]

I would almost bet you just need to replace the lower shift cable, or just readjust it. The Bravos have a lot more tolerance for slop in the shift cable then an Alpha, Over time they do wear and also the positioning can shift.

I would check adjustment first, then drain the lube and check for metal. If no metal is found, your probably good, just need another cable and/or adjustment

 

[scoflaw]

Looked at the cable adjustments and they are exactly the same as my other motor. Looking for an explanation how that clutch works.​If I'm shifting from neutral it engages but not entirely , and when I get it to about 1100 rpm's the clutch drops in with a bang, After that everything is solid. High RPM's whatever, I can get the r's down around 700 ,in gear, throttle up no noise. Only when I drop it back to neutral, then shift up, does the bang return when I throttle up.

 

[alldodge]

The movement uses a sliding clutch, one of the best in the business. Your getting the jump in gear because either the throttle control handle is not adjusted correctly, or there is slop in the cable. The Bravo is real smooth when adjust correctly and the throttle control is moving the correct amount.

Need to measure first, it should be 3 inches from base to post.


To adjust the shifter, you need to place it in neutral. Remove top cable



Sift happens by the sliding clutch engaging with either upper or lower gear

 

[scoflaw]

Thanks for the detailed drawing, I will measure again today. This shifter has been muscled in the past when the engine shut off in gear. Heard that's not good and was curious if I bent anything. Boat will be hauled for the season in about a month and a half, and I'm sure I'm not doing this drive any favors the way it is now. Also I don't own that adjustment tool, thinking I can wing it. When I measured it was exactly the same as the other engine, but did not know about centering the shifter or that 3" distance.

 

[scoflaw]

Confirmed that all measurements are correct and lower shift cable goes full distance in both directions. So... thinking something may be bent in the drive. So...​Does anyone know what gets damaged when a Bravo is shifted with the engine off ?

 

[alldodge]

Confirmed that all measurements are correct and lower shift cable goes full distance in both directions. So... thinking something may be bent in the drive. So...​Does anyone know what gets damaged when a Bravo is shifted with the engine off ?

Don't see anything getting damaged inside the drive when shifting with motor stopped. I think its slop in the cable and jacket. The inner cable will wear a slot into the outer jacket, and the Bravo shift mechanism doesn't move much.

The only things I can see that could wear inside and cause similar issues is the bushings. If these bushings wore this would also cause the drive to start leaking lube into the shift cavity. There are screw pins which hold the shift linkage together. It would take one of these screws to break to change the shifting and then there would be other issues.

To verify, drain the drive and remove the rear cap. If the shift cavity is full of lube then the bushings and seals will ne replacing. You can also just remove the drive, and if lube comes gushing out of the cavity, this to will verify

 

[scoflaw]

Thanks for the response. Today I'm going to disconnect lower shift cable, start engine, put it in forward gear, tach it up a bit till it bangs in and see if the cable moves. Why do they say not to shift bravos with engine off ? If the clutch isn't slipping can I assume that it is a good part and to look elsewhere ?

 

[alldodge]

I don't think your going to see the cable move. A new cable has no slop, a fraction of an inch at one ends moves the other end the same amount. If the same inner core cable was inside a tube with a 1/4 ID the cable would flop inside. Another thing, new cables have a coating on them which lubes and also takes up space. When the coating is worn off, there is more slop.

When the motor is running the drive shaft is spinning both upper and lower gears in the clutch assembly. When the rpms increase the gears spin faster and that rpm allows the clutch to move a tad more. That tad more allows it to move just enough to start the engagement and bang, its in gear.

Just replaced the lower shift on my Rinker, the coating was gone off the center cable. While mine wasn't bad like yours, mine had the issue if I reved it a bit to high in throttle only mode while warming up, it would bang into gear.

You shouldn't shift the Bravo with motor off because of the helical cut gears. This doesn't hurt the gears but the gears when together need rotation to come apart easy. The best way to get it in/out of gear (if time is available) is to jump the slave solenoid to turn the engine slightly as the handle is being moved toward neutral.

Is there any issue with going into reverse. If it goes in gear with very little movement, try rotating the barrel adjustment a couple turns forward

 

[scoflaw]

Thanks for the explanation. I want to wait for the fall haul to address the issue. It's really not bad at all. Reverse is fine, I'll try a couple of turns as you suggest.

 

[alldodge]

Thanks for the explanation. I want to wait for the fall haul to address the issue. It's really not bad at all. Reverse is fine, I'll try a couple of turns as you suggest.

BTW, if it gets worst put it back and go couple turns in the other direction

 

[scoflaw]

I hear you. Tried to adjust it today. The cable is sloppy and at the end of its adjustment in the direction I want to go with the threaded section. Looks like I'll have to loosen the little square nuts or just wait till the end of the season and replace both sides

 

[alldodge]

No wrong end, don't touch the little square nuts/bolts. I'm talking about the barrel nut as in post 4, middle pic. Just slide it out and rotate it then slide back in

 

[scoflaw]

That's where I started. That barrel nut is stuck to those threads real good. There's a dimple on it as well, like it's not suppose to move. So that's when I loosened the nut that connects the inner and outer, and that was bottomed out in the direction I wanted to go. So... that barrel nut should move ..eh ?

 

[alldodge]

That is the factory line, it is preset so there is no adjusting. In that case it can be moved but hard to do, so I'm back to you need a new lower shift cable

 

[Pete104]

+ 1
The cable is 10 yrs old. And the bellows probably are also.

 

[boatguya1]

When you get done with all that the upper will most likely need to come apart. The cone clutch will probably need replaced, and the cone on the gear will probably be glazed over and need lapped with valve lapping compound.

 

[scoflaw]

​Hope not, solid now, no slipping once engaged

 

[alldodge]

glazed over and need lapped with valve lapping compound

First time to hear something like this.

 

[scoflaw]

Never heard of the damage to this gear or bringing it back from the dead ?