I should just stick to doing what I know how to do, but....

glennj3

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After spending a lot of money, lots of time working on my own boat, progress just sucks!
So now I got more tools in, checked the inch lbs on my ujoint bearing. I can not tighten it enough to go over 2.2 inch lbs. I checked the torque reading at this point and it reads 80 ft lbs.
I can still turn the bearings by hand but they are a little stiff. I take them off, oil them all and turn them, repeat the steps, I can not get over 2.2 inch lbs with the me holding the outside of the bearings.
What is wrong, besides I need to do something else!
 

tpenfield

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Maybe you should post a picture to show better what you are doing. Usually the issue is over tightening vs under.
 

alldodge

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Are you talking about bearing preload and measuring rolling torque?
 

glennj3

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I am, but after taking the bearing apart completely for the first time, it looks like I was confused regarding if it has a small spacer or not. I guess it does have the small spacer. I thought that was a washer.
It fits around the shaft and up against the gear.
So I torqued the nut down to 85 ft lbs. I can turn the bearings by hand using a cloth to hold them. I had previously tightened the nut to 90 ft lbs and the rolling torque was only 2.2 inch lbs. I was very frustrated and hot!
Still waiting for my shim tools and shims to come in for measuring the heights.
I don't know how to up load pictures!
 

tpenfield

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Not sure this will help, but here is a link to the drive shaft work I did on my Bravo and setting the rolling torque . . . a fair number of pictures.

http://forums.iboats.com/forum/engi...648571-some-milky-oil-from-the-outdrive/page4

The Alpha drive shaft looks to have quite a few parts as opposed to the Bravo, but the bearings should 'squish' together as you tighten the nut at the end of the drive shaft, and it should not take much to increase the rolling torque.

So, maybe you have not assembled the driveshaft parts together properly :noidea: If you are having to torque the nut a fair amount and not getting the bearings to bind, then something is amiss.
 

glennj3

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Nice job, so neat and orderly! Per the book, if the gear has the small spacer ( I am assuming mine does) just torque it at 85 Ft lbs and turn the bearings to check freedom. That is why I am getting just over 2 inch lb reading for old bearings. I only put one new bearing in the driven, top part.
There were no shims in the driven side, the book states do not use shims if they were not already there. My drive side had 3 piston shims. When I replaced the bearings into the yoke side and tightened the 3 inch nut, the yoke does not turn smoothly anymore. Got to measure the gears when my instruments come in.
Also the bearings are not pressed on, I can take them all apart by hand including the gear shaft.
 
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achris

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The small spacer refered to (if you have one) is on the shaft of the yoke, between the bearings. It acts as a 'stop' between the INNER races of the bearings. In the same place will be the large spacer (all units have), which is between the OUTER races of the bearings. ALL units will have a small WASHER under the nut that goes on the drive gear at the end of the yoke. That is the nut you tighten to increase the preload. You don't need to use a torque wrench on the nut, just do it as pre the video.

Click the link at the bottom right of my signature for my videos. ;)

Chris......
 

Fishermark

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Here's a video I did of mine where I wasn't sure what I had... it shows the spacer that determines if you have the style that requires the rolling torque or not.

 

glennj3

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Mine looks like yours ! Thanks so much for answering nagging question!
I have watched Chris's video so many times, the one he does looks like mine on the outside, but I can't see the inside. The part that actually verifies there is a small spacer (requiring inch lb settings) or just the spacer that requires 80 ft lbs!
He does a great job though!
 
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glennj3

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I got several tools in, the alignment tool, (checked that right away and it was smooth and easy) a gimbal bearing puller and one shim tool, the driver gear one,91-60523. I could not even get the feeler gauge in! No wonder it was turning rough. It has 3 shims in it now, two thicker and one very thin (piston shims). I may have them in the mail today.
The driven gear has no shims in it.
Just an update.
 

achris

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I've just watched my video again. Something I didn't mention or show too well was the fact that I am holding the bearing outer races as I turn the nut with the torque indictaor.
 

glennj3

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That is what I was trying to see, one part looked like you did, others I could not tell. I assumed I would have to hold it. You make it look so easy!
 

achris

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That's because it is easy. Don't over think it.
 

glennj3

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Placing a shim in the upper housing cap

Again, I get to the point of thinking I am wrapping this up, A through G and I see I did not read everything well enough, again! I did not realize I would have to remove the upper bearing race to place a shim. At this point I have no idea if there is a shim there.
So tomorrow I will find a gear driver hammer and remove the bearing race, it needs a shim because the rolling torque on the upper bearing was 2 inch lbs. New bearing. My shim pack came in today but I don't know which one to use. I don't want to put one in and have to remove the race again and again in order to get the rolling torque correct.
Any advice on which one to use?
Thanks,
 

alldodge

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Its in the Merc section but have no idea what your working on other then to look what you posted previously, and I don't plan to do that
 

glennj3

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Bt Doctur, Per the merc manual, it looks like I do that after I set the rolling torque by placing a shim in the cap. I did measure the vertical shaft and it was high, I placed a .025 and a .010 feeler gauge for a smooth fit.
I did not remove the lower bearing or race so I don't know if there is a shim there?
 

glennj3

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I wish I could delete my posting above. I need to start over with the measurements because I did not use the shim tool correctly as stated in the manual!
 
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