mercruiser 898 check

laki101

Seaman Apprentice
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Jun 17, 2009
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Looking into buying a glastron v184 with a pre alpha drive and a mercruiser 898 engine, first of all any expirience with the combo ? And the reason I am writing is that I will go to check the thing out in 2 days and need some info what to check, I guess compresion, spark, any other thing that needs attention ? The thing does look in rough shape in the photos but since the price is ridicilous I just think it would work

P.s. the owner claims its al 1985 but as far as I have seen both the 898 and the pre alpha stoped producing a few years before that am I wrong ?
 

Oshkosh1

Ensign
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Jun 8, 2009
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Ensure they have it hooked up and ready to start. Check to see if the owner warmed it up prior and if they did, ask them why. Most people don't haul around compression testers and you really don't need to either. Pull a plug on each side and have a look to see their condition. Ensure it starts, idles, and has no obvious issues from the beginning. Take a close look at the hoses and general cleanliness. As with almost anything mechanical, the condition on the outside will probably be a good indication of what it looks like on the inside.

Don't expect a diamond in the rough...doesn't happen. If it looks like it's in "rough shape" it probably is. If the "price is ridiculous" more than likely so is the mechanical condition.
 

achris

More fish than mountain goat
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May 19, 2004
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27,468
Merc never made a 'pre-alpha' drive. Call it by what it is, a 'Mercruiser-1' drive (MC-1 for short). Short of pulling the drive off (which I have done before buying a boat), check the gear oil. Just crack the bottom fill plug and let a drop of oil out. If it's new and pristine clean, be very suspicious. If it's pure water or water emulsified oil, run like heII, or be prepared to put another drive on.

The last year of the '898' was 1984, so the boat could be 1985. Look at the drive, if it has a lifting 'eye' on the top cap, it's 1982 or earlier. If the top cap of the drive is flat, it's 1983 or 1984 ('R' drive). Also see if the engine has points or electronic ignition. Points puts it before 1983. And the year of the hull and the year of the engine can be the same, slightly different, or vastly different (look at my boat :D).

Do take some tools with you. Pull the prop off and inspect the shaft, look for lateral movement (there should be none), longitudinal (in/out) movement, about 1/4". When the engine is running (with the water hose), turn the steering full port, then full starboard and listen for a clicking or knocking, it could indicate unis or the gimbal bearing. Also ask for reciepts from the last service. See what was done. No reciepts, assume it needs a full service of everything! (HERE is the quick list :D)

Another thing to consider. You are buying a boat with an engine, not the other way around. If the hull is good and the motor is crap, but the price is right, grab it. You can always replace engines, drives and transom housings, but the hull is forever. Even the trailer can be easily replaced or repaired. But you should be concentrating your inspection on the hull. If you like the hull (and it's in good condition), but there are problems with the engine/drive, use that as a negotiating tool, not a deal-killer.

Chris........
 

laki101

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Jun 17, 2009
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Sorry for the mc-1 thing, I knew that but just seen everybody call it a pre alpha so went with the flow
Thanks for the tips, will check it

Now for the just replace engine and service recieps part I need to inform you a bit where I live:
Any registered official inboard/outboard garage-does not exist
Any trained mechanic-does not exist
Spare parts in my country - does not exist (US ebay or some sites + 7-14 days of waiting +20% on customs tax)
Spare engine for sale - once a year at a price the same as a boat with that engine, sometimes even more
And the final thing, maintinence habbits of owners - if it runs its good, fix when it wont start anymore

So basicly what I buy is what I am stuck with, and since I fell in love with the hull shape and look, I would love to see the engine good enough so that with a set of new belts,oil,cables,sparks it would be good
 

achris

More fish than mountain goat
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May 19, 2004
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I see your problems. Then you need to go through the engine and drive quite thoroughly. Pay my flights to Europe and I'll come and check it out with you. :rofl:
 

laki101

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Jun 17, 2009
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I see your problems. Then you need to go through the engine and drive quite thoroughly. Pay my flights to Europe and I'll come and check it out with you. :rofl:


bring one working engine spare with you and we have a deal :lol:
 

laki101

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guys is this the 898 at all ? looking now at the parts list and this kind of exhaust was at the 350 260 engine only, the 898 has the riser in the midle ? this is just what I see from the parts diagrams so correct me if wrong
 

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achris

More fish than mountain goat
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Yes that could be an 898. The centre rise exhaust manifold began in 1983, the 898 started quite a few years earlier. Prior to 1983, all the V8s has 'log' manifold. The 2bbl carb on that engine also adds weight to it being an 898.

Chris.....
 

laki101

Seaman Apprentice
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Jun 17, 2009
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guys one quick question , what should be the compression ratings on this motor ?
 

hemi rt

Petty Officer 1st Class
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Jul 1, 2010
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Decent condition - 125 PSI and up, anything below that and the engine is getting lazy, below 100 PSI and it is just about worn out
 

achris

More fish than mountain goat
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Decent condition - 125 PSI and up, anything below that and the engine is getting lazy, below 100 PSI and it is just about worn out

And all cylinders within 10%. ie, maximum variation on 130 would be 13psi.
 

hemi rt

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And all cylinders within 10%. ie, maximum variation on 130 would be 13psi.


True but you can't just use the 10% variation or an engine with 72 - 80 PSI on all cylinders would be good to go, an engine that has between 100 -125 PSI is getting lazy ( for a better word ) and under 100 PSI is just about worn out.
 

achris

More fish than mountain goat
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True but you can't just use the 10% variation or an engine with 72 - 80 PSI on all cylinders would be good to go, an engine that has between 100 -125 PSI is getting lazy ( for a better word ) and under 100 PSI is just about worn out.

That's why I said "and" at the beginning of the text. :D
 

laki101

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Jun 17, 2009
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Saw the thing today, and it was sad, just sad. The exhaust was "fixed" with some plastic silicone something, the block has got a nasty overheat white look , the water hoses are filled with rust, and the compression gauge showed 90psi on one , and 50 on other cylinder and on top of that the sterdrive is falling apart also , so sadly nothing this time :(
 
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