Skeg replacement and size

[tunaboss]

I want to repair my skeg before I reinstall the outdrive. It broke off years ago, don't even remember how. Anyway, it is an Alpha One Gen 2. What are the approximate dimensions and thickness of the skeg, I can trim it for final fit. Is there any concern that the brake is right up to the bullet/gear case other than the heat issue and the seals inside.

Thanks again.

 

[Scott Danforth]

Mercruiser part number [h=2]90185A1[/h]

 

[gm280]

I want to repair my skeg before I reinstall the outdrive. It broke off years ago, don't even remember how. Anyway, it is an Alpha One Gen 2. What are the approximate dimensions and thickness of the skeg, I can trim it for final fit. Is there any concern that the brake is right up to the bullet/gear case other than the heat issue and the seals inside.

Thanks again.

Depending how close it is to the gear case section, you will have to disassemble it to have it welded in place, if that is the way you are talking about going. Otherwise the heat could warp and melt seals and such. I had a section of my cavitation plate welded on on an outboard, but I had everything disassembled as well. JMHO!

 

[redneck joe]

for $75 i'd just do this

http://www.iboats.com/SkegGard-with...Iix5KzjYHfLvd5cThpc02rdzb5D3NQnvwmhoCBQvw_wcB

 

[tunaboss]

I pulled this off of Google Images, it's not mine but very similar. I don't think there is enough material to bolt on a Skeg Gard. I have a MIG Welder, I was thinking of buying Aluminum Wire for it. Any suggestions? or should I have the pro's do this one.

https://www.google.com/imgres?imgurl...act=mrc&uact=8

 

[achris]

I had one worse than that ^. Pulled the propshaft and bearing carrier out (left the drive shaft in) and had the new skeg welded on. Friend most happy, 5 years down the track and it still looks like new.

Chris......

 

[redneck joe]

from what i have read on this topic over the years, have a pro do it and not just a guy with a welder but someone who knows what they are doing.

 

[Scott Danforth]

I had one similar to that. marina welded it on while I was eating lunch. got back to the truck and the paint was still tacky. total time was about a half an hour

since there are companies that specialize in doing it, you couldnt get a proper whip, gas, and aluminum mig wire for what it would cost you to take it somewhere to get repaired.

 

[gm280]

I have to agree with redneck joe on this one. Have a component aluminum welder do the welding. It has to be extremely clean without and oil, greases, dirty or flaws to get a good solid joint. And professional welder know how to do that. JMHO

If you never welded on aluminum, then i say let the pros do this. That is not to say you can't prep the surfaces and even fit it to the gear case as closely as you can get it ready for welding. I did that myself when I had a cavitation plate welded on. I took some quality aluminum and made the piece to be welded on and fit it perfectly as well. The welder say he needs me to work there so I can fit things like that. I know where they welded the plate on, and I can't find it now myself after finishing the areas with primer and paint.

 

[Bondo]

Ayuh,... I agree, if ya ain't already welded a few miles of aluminum bead, that ain't the place to learn,....

Weldin' aluminum barely resembles weldin' steel,...

The local propshop cut's blanks outa 1/4" aluminum sheet, welds it on, 'n blends it out with a grinder,...
Always on an empty case though,....
Further away from bearin' 'n gasket surfaces, wet rags are used to control the heat,...

 

[tunaboss]

Thanks everybody, I've called a few places in my area So. Cal. I've been quoted as high as $600, and as low as $250-$300. Assuming I go with the shop for $250 is that a fair price. He say's he's done a lot of them. Also, said he leaves the guts in, and fills it with oil to keep the temps down. Does this sound right?

 

[gm280]

Thanks everybody, I've called a few places in my area So. Cal. I've been quoted as high as $600, and as low as $250-$300. Assuming I go with the shop for $250 is that a fair price. He say's he's done a lot of them. Also, said he leaves the guts in, and fills it with oil to keep the temps down. Does this sound right?

WOW, I have to say that seems high to me. But I don't like in that area and therefore I don't know the going prices either. When I had mine welded, it cost me $75 dollars. But I made the replacement part AND totally prepared the area for the weld. So I really can't say if that is a good price or not. Have you priced a new lower section to see what a new OR used one would cost. I'd do that and go from there to see if it is a good deal or not. JMHO

 

[Scott Danforth]

So cal is going to be higher than the midwest, however.....dang that is still high.

 

[redneck joe]

but it seems like the oil might work?

 

[achris]

Oil doesn't work. It sucks the heat out too quickly. No way around pulling the carrier and shaft out when welding right up against the bottom of the housing. Once the shaft it out, put the carrier back in (without the 'O' ring) and screw a new cover nut in. That helps stop the housing distorting with the heat. Besides, the carrier 'O' ring is too close to the outside for oil to protect it from the heat. Pull it now and get the job done properly. Or pull it later to replace a leaking 'O' ring, and also reweld the skeg, as it will have fallen off. Don't ask me how I know. :facepalm: