Mercuiser 4.3L EFI Loss of Power when warm - second opinion

mhlugar

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Aug 12, 2016
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Background: 2001 Sea Ray, owned three years, purchased used. Boat typically used very heavily in summer skiing and tubing. Summer 1, boat used most of summer then water in oil - hair line crack in block. Short block replaced. Summer 2, (after break-in period) boat used most of the summer but, motor has characteristics of water in fuel. SeaFoam and HEET used (not at the same time) to address condition. Hard to get skier out of hole, but upon reaching 2200+ rpm - runs well at or near WOT. Summer 3, Motor is running rough, stalls when idling when warmed up. Hesitates, sputters going to WOT - if I can get past 2500 rpms it runs well. Initial thoughts maybe a sensor is bad - gave up on guessing and took it to a marina to read ECM and diagnose. After replacing MAP and fuel regulator - marina is informing me that value job is needed. I have scoured this forum for similar guidance. Looking for a second opinion, based on the data I have received.

Marina comments follow:

Motor is Mercruiser 4.3L EFI with TBI (throttle body fuel injection) with 473.3 hours. Short block replaced at approx. 400 hours ( my comment). There is no way to determine from ECM info as to when engine block was replace nor does it categorize hours run by RPM as the newer MPI engines do.

Rich running condition has been caused by two issues A. Bad MAP sensor and B. Leaking intake valves which are throwing off the sensors readings that establish air/fuel mixture in engine by ECM. Unfortunately, the leaking valves and corresponding loss of compression were masked by the fact that readings are substantially different when engine is cold versus hot. The problem is with both heads as cylinders #2, #3 and #5 are all loosing compression when hot. Problems with intake valves confirmed by performing "leak down test" on all cylinders and you can hear air flowing back through intake manifold.

Series of diagnostic events to determine problem were:

A. Boat battery dead upon arrival.
B. Engine running rich.
C. Diagnostics show fault code for MAP sensor - Replaced sensor. Fault code cured but engine continues to run rich.
D. Fuel pressure is too high 33PSI and recommended by Mercury to replace fuel pressure regulator. No change in fuel pressure with new regulator.
E. Baseline compression readings with engine cold register from 160 to 175 PSI in all cylinders which are within spec. However as engine warms up compression begins to drop in #2. to 115; #3 to 110 and #5 to 135. At this point performed Leak Down Test and determined Intake valves in those cylinders leaking back into manifold when engine running warm Which causes incorrect manifold pressure and increased fuel added to engine.

At minimum engine needs a complete valve job.

At first we were chasing fault codes, now I am looking at a valve job. Plans are to take it to another marina for second opinion.
 

alldodge

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40,718
33 psi for fuel pressure is within range of a gauge (30 psi at 1800 rpm), I don't see an issue.

160 to 175 psi cold compression is high but still could be a gauge error.

Agree, need a valve job
 

mhlugar

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Aug 12, 2016
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Bt Doctur and AllDodge. Appreciate your feedback. I was not aware that you can take a warm compression test. Based on most information in these forums, there was a dry measurements and then wet.
 

hemi rt

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Jul 1, 2010
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Compression test figures are on an engine at normal operating temperatures, a dry then wet compression test usually will tell you if you have a problem with the rings or valves. From what you are describing you have some valves that are starting to burn or the seats are getting eaten away.
 

Rick Stephens

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Aug 13, 2013
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With the confidence you can have in the lower end of that engine, I would just pull the heads and have at it. Usually, when doing just the valves on an older motor, you end up finding out the rings couldn't take the newly upped compression pressures. But in your case you have a nearly new bottom end. I'd be talking with my machinist and looking forward to your engine running right again.

RIck
 

mhlugar

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Aug 12, 2016
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hemi rt and Rick. I will discuss your feedback with the mechanic. This engine is just under the two year warranty. If we have to pull the heads - I may ask to just have the engine replaced. IMHO this should not have failed.
 

hemi rt

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Jul 1, 2010
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Was a long or short block put in when the crack was found, if a short block the heads should have at least been checked over and a valve job done at that time if it was necessary, hard to tell now if the heads should have been done when the block was replaced.
 
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