Shift cable kickin' my behind! - need help

[Zoomer]

Having trouble installing a new shift cable kit and have now ruined 2 outer sheaths. This is getting expensive, time consuming and very frustrating. The first one we kinked while removing it (bellows install got out of order, long story). The cable inside the boat didn't rotate freely enough so the outer cable kinked. Bought new cable kit and have it installed correctly I think. I am trying to install the little spiral wrap on plastic protection section on and am assuming it needs to go down where the cable passes through the transom. There is no way to get to it. In the process, I find I've damaged the black outer sheath of my new cable. I have searched the forum and I think I have the proper cable routing. I just now found a video saying the spiral wrap on plastic protector is only supposed to be where the cable goes between the exhaust manifold / starter / transom assembly basketry. So I'm asking for some advice as to how to get the right parts, get them in the right place, and not damage anything in the process again. This is getting very frustrating and expensive (OEM parts as kits)!

Got a few questions (1987 4.3l Alpha One Gen 1, I have the manual but it isn't clear on these things as far as I can find):

1. Can you buy just the outer sheath of the cable or do you have to buy a kit?
2. Should I be able to remove / install the cable at the bell housing and have the cable inside the boat rotate freely enough to not kink the cable sheath?
3. Will the shift bellows rotate on the cable enough to not damage the shift bellows while removing old and installing a new cable?
4. Where exactly does that spiral wrap on plastic protector go and how do you get it there?
5. How compressed or expanded should the shift bellows be when you crimp or zip tie the shift bellows to the cable.
6. Is the cable supposed to route through the transom, then just above the manifold and behind the starter and under the transom bracket protrusions, then around manifold, behind steering cable and up top on the engine?

To top it all off, I wasn't having any shifting problems when I started all this work. I was just following the advice or replacing it while I have everything apart for a bellows replacement.

I would appreciate some help.

 

[achris]

Got a few questions (1987 4.3l Alpha One Gen 1, I have the manual but it isn't clear on these things as far as I can find):

1. Can you buy just the outer sheath of the cable or do you have to buy a kit?
2. Should I be able to remove / install the cable at the bell housing and have the cable inside the boat rotate freely enough to not kink the cable sheath?
3. Will the shift bellows rotate on the cable enough to not damage the shift bellows while removing old and installing a new cable?
4. Where exactly does that spiral wrap on plastic protector go and how do you get it there?
5. How compressed or expanded should the shift bellows be when you crimp or zip tie the shift bellows to the cable.
6. Is the cable supposed to route through the transom, then just above the manifold and behind the starter and under the transom bracket protrusions, then around manifold, behind steering cable and up top on the engine?

To top it all off, I wasn't having any shifting problems when I started all this work. I was just following the advice or replacing it while I have everything apart for a bellows replacement.

I would appreciate some help.

1. No, as a kit only.
2. Yes, but it may need someone in the boat helping rotate the cable.
3. Yes. Add a bit of dishwashing liquid if you're uncertain.
4. Push the spiral wrap down as far as you can. Ideally, around the area the cable passes around the exhaust pipe.
5. I turn the drive fully to port to expose the bellows, then pull it to fully expanded (but don't stretch) and zip tie it. I double the zip tie (or use an outboard fuel line cable tie for extra water tightness (sic).
6. I have attached the Merc recommended way to run the cable. Usually I tie a pull-line to the old cable before I pull it out. I use that to pull the new one in, and it will naturally follow the old path.



Chris...

 

[Rick Stephens]

I always looked at that Mercruiser drawing as somewhat diabolical :^) When I recently routed my shift cable for the 4.3L, I did it with the motor out, which is kind of cheating as you can do it yourself, from scratch, no pull cable needed, without any difficulties at all. However, once I had the motor in, the cable ends up not routed below the rear motor mount, but more next to it, which is a much tighter 'busier' space. It looks wide open in the drawing down under the motor mount, if the cable only ended up there. Slipping the protector on and in was not hard when done with the cable laying out straight alongside the front motor mount before threading the cable up around the Y pipe through the steering to the linkage plate.

I have never tried to leave the cable bellows attached to the transom while I installed the cable. I have always used silicon spray on the cable housing and slid the bellows along it as the cable housing was inserted. Chris's thoughts on using dish soap (and everything else) is without doubt from a more experienced hand than anything I could add. I just note where I saw some differences when I recently did one.

Rick

 

[bspeth]

cool set up,i love my R but id love to have a 4.3 instead of a 3.8.

 

[Zoomer]

Ordered a new shift cable set yesterday morning. I pulled the cable out last night to inspect it and it looks like I damaged the outer plastic sheathing for about 3/4 inch, about 1/3 of the way around the cable, but the internal metal (now showing) doesn't appear kinked or damaged. I ran my plastic string trimmer string though it and it passed that area smoothly. The thought crossed my mind that I could use some heat shrink and a little silicone to seal the heat shrink to the casing and repair the one I have. With the work that's involved to install though, I think I'll wait for the new one to arrive and install it.

 

[achris]

Use adhesive lined heat shrink. Much easier.