350 Mag/Bravo 3 overheating issue

JPTL

Seaman
Joined
Sep 20, 2003
Messages
51
2002 Marada with a Bravo 3. Salt water use. Relatively low hours but only winterized annually - deferred maintenance (if anything). Appears to be a very original engine with no signs of incompetent repair/maintenance attempts.
I immediately replaced the impeller which was completely done. All fins were gone. Most pieces were jammed into the output opening of the impeller housing. I recovered (what I thought) all of the pieces of the fins and laid them out/puzzled them back to the impeller stub.
I replaced the impeller with a kit (new housing) and made sure that the impeller was properly oriented. I had tagged the upper impeller hose for reassembly with a zip tie. Unfortunately the zip tie came off while I horsed around with the hoses. I'm pretty certain that I installed the hoses correctly, per the attached diagram. The system does have what appears to be a flush attachment that teed from an open garden hose line, into the hose that I installed as the upper/intake hose. When I pulled the garden hose line from the T, I saw pink antifreeze seep out.
Put the boat in the water to test.
At idle, in the lake, temp seemed to stay at the 150 mark for a while, but as I revved the engine, it started to climb. When it approached 190, I shut the engine off.
After letting the engine cool at bit, I pulled all four hoses at the thermostat housing. All appeared to be dry. Removed the thermostat housing and the thermostat didn't appear to be stuck (retracted).
Thinking that the system could use a prime, I added fresh water to all four hoses and reattached.
Started the engine again, and once again, the temp gradually rose above 175. While the engine was running, I pulled each hose at the therm housing and there appeared to be no water flow.
I'm new to this boat, so I don't know its history. I'm also not sure about whether or not there is any kind of raw water shut off valve or seacock (are seacocks primarily used for closed systems?). I don't recall seeing any kind of open/close valve on or near the flush attachment and assumed that it was a basic one-way valve. Maybe I'm missing something.
Is there a troubleshooting process that I can take that would help me identify the issue, before going straight to the major steps like pulling the outdrive, risers, manifolds, etc.?
Thanks!
 

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Bt Doctur

Supreme Mariner
Joined
Aug 29, 2004
Messages
19,111
Sounds like a bad case of Bravoitis
20160505_131422_zpstlomk8ic.jpeg
 
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JPTL

Seaman
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Sep 20, 2003
Messages
51
Holy moly. That's ugly - whatever and where ever it is... and what is that melted blob? The engine in my boat doesn't appear to have near the corrosion that the fitting in your picture has, but that's from outward appearances, so I'm not ruling anything out. Could you explain "Bravoitis" or point me in the right direction?
 
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alldodge

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Mar 8, 2009
Messages
40,746
A fresh water boat doesn't have much of this kind of problem, but a slat water boat does. BT pic is one of the worst, most just have about a 50 to 60 % reduction. The fix is to replace the intake water hose from the bell housing to the transom plate. Merc makes a new hose which is part hard plastic and part rubber hose with some new rubber seal bushings.

I am rebuilding my Bravo on my Rinker now and installing the hose setup. New part number is 32-8M0090859 and comes as a kit. Some of the parts are in the kit are used to install the new seal bushing in the transom.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/OEM-MerCrui...-Water-Intake-Hose-32-8M0090859-/400902944040
 

JPTL

Seaman
Joined
Sep 20, 2003
Messages
51
So I'm looking at pulling the outdrive at a minimum? I've pulled an Alpha One second gen. and that's not too tough. Is pulling the Bravo 3 along the same lines or is it more involved (again, I'm new to this boat and Bravo 3's for that matter).
 

alldodge

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Staff member
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Mar 8, 2009
Messages
40,746
Same number of boats, but no need to put the shifter in forward, just leave in neutral, and don't forget to remove speed-o tube. Also the B3 weights around 150 pounds so need something to help.

To see if it's bravoits, remove the hose coming from the inside of the transom plate to the belt driven water pump. Then remove the two bolts holding the hose fitting and remove. Once the hose fitting is off, you will see the area in BT pic and it should be full open, if not you found the issue.

As for replacing boots or hoses its about the same, and there is a slight bit more room with the Bravo. The installation instructions come with the hose kit
 

thumpar

Admiral
Joined
Jun 21, 2007
Messages
6,138
It is similar to the alpha but heavier. You don't need to worry about putting it in gear but you do need to make sure the jaws unlock on the shift cable. On the starboard side you can peek in as you pull the drive off. If it doesn't automatically unlatch use a flat screwdriver. The speedo tube is just lift the tab and rotate 90*. Be ready for it. It is not a one man job like the alpha.
 

Bt Doctur

Supreme Mariner
Joined
Aug 29, 2004
Messages
19,111
Actually have one worse than that one right now , the housing is split in a Y where the bolts go.
 
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