Alpha One Gen Two bellows questions

Darinus

Cadet
Joined
Jul 18, 2016
Messages
6
Hello all,

I am new here at iboats, and new to boating as well. I recently purchased a 1992 19' Centra cuddy, with a 4.3L merc and Alpha 1 Gen 2 outdrive.

After I got the engine running, and spent a few hours out on the water, I realized I needed to replace the Gimbal bearing. So I swapped it out over the weekend and now I working on the bellows.

I am using the quicksilver bellows adhesive, on both the bellow and the flanges, letting them dry and them applying another coat to slide them on. Once I clamp them down they seem to slide off a bit. I redid the fitting and it seems to hold now but I am afraid they will slip off after some use. Is this a common problem? Can they actually slip off while in use? One of the guys at the marina recommended that I used 3M automotive weatherstripping adhesive instead, and just slip them on while it is wet. Has anyone tried this? Is it a good idea?

Also, I am reading here that there is a special tool needed to install the exhaust bellows, but mine when on pretty easily. Is that normal?

On a side note, where I leave the boat docked at low tide the hull sits in the mud. So when I leave the boat I actually lift up the drive. Not sure if this is would create extra stress on the bellows or not.

Thanks for the help!
 

achris

More fish than mountain goat
Joined
May 19, 2004
Messages
27,468
A few things.

When I've done bellows (a LOT of them!) I put the adhesive on (only the Merc one) and let it get 'tacky', then put the bellows on, NEVER put another layer on. The bellows at the forward end slips into a groove, and once the clamp is on will not slip off (if done right). The aft end needs a tool to fit the locking ring. Use Merc 'power tune' to aid fitting, not anything else.

Using any other adhesive is something I've ever tried, and never will. The Merc one works. Save a couple of dollars and risk a few hunderd in exchange? Any investment advisor will tell you that's a bad investment.

The exhaust bellows special tool is easy to make yourself, plans are in the stickies section. Normally it's not so easy to put the bell housing end of the exhaust bellows on, hence the special tool. Are you sure it's on properly? (I guess you'll find out soon enough. Don't worry, nothing bad happens if it does slip off. I had to put mine back on just recently).

Leaving the drive trimmed up is not recommended (read the Mercruiser owners' manual). It does reduce the life of the bellows.

Chris......
 

Darinus

Cadet
Joined
Jul 18, 2016
Messages
6
Thanks Chris,


So I could apply the bellows adhesive to the one side, let it get tacky then install? Sounds much easier than what I was doing.

I don't remember seeing a groove on the flanges except on the ID of the u-joint bellow. The shift cable in particular was the one that slid off.

I apply the adhesive, let it tack up and then use the Power Tune to help the installation?

I saw a different posting with the tool, simple enough to make but I still don't think it's necessary.

I will head to west marine today to grab a can of the power tune and some more bellows adhesive. Ill check out to see if they have the exhaust tube as well.

If I leave the drive trimmed down and it sits in the mud, is that okay?

Thanks for the help.
 

Bondo

Moderator
Staff member
Joined
Apr 17, 2002
Messages
70,525
Ayuh,.... Power Tune is only used to insert the aluminum lock ring on the aft end of the u-joint bellows,....

The one ya don't glue,....

If the shift cable bellows is slippin',.... My guess is yer tightenin' the hose clamp too tight,....
It's just gotta be firmly snug,...
 

wahlejim

Master Chief Petty Officer
Joined
Jul 23, 2015
Messages
884
Raise your drive, don't let it sit in the mud. I would rather change the bellows more frequently than have to swap out a drive. Just my 2 cents
 

Darinus

Cadet
Joined
Jul 18, 2016
Messages
6
Thanks guys! I got it all connected the other night. Hopefully putting it back in the water this afternoon. I re-glued only the bellows at the bell housing, since the others seemed to be on pretty good. I loosened the clamp on the shift cable and the re-tightened it to what I feel is firmly snug. Raised and lowered the drive a several times in all positions and they all seemed okay. Hopefully they wont leak!

I thought the same that leaving the drive up is the better option. I may leave it not trimmed all the way up for a few days to let it settle.

Wish me luck! I will report back in a few days.

Thanks again!
 

Darinus

Cadet
Joined
Jul 18, 2016
Messages
6
Great news! I got the bellows in last week and they seem to hold water and everything works well. However, while inspecting for leaks I noticed water was dripping in at the water inlet tube, and sort of dripping onto the drive shaft gimbal bearing area. I picked up a new tube and gasket, and the bolt that holds the flange on broke.

So my next question is to extract the screws, do I need to remove the engine, or is there a way to remove the gimbal housing without pulling the engine?

I have access to a Bridgeport and a CNC Mill, so I can re-drill and tap the threads.

Thanks again for your help.
 

Darinus

Cadet
Joined
Jul 18, 2016
Messages
6
Yeah I was afraid of that. Will try one more attempt to extract the threads. How big of a job is the installing the engine? I've done several engine swaps on cars and they aren't to crazy. I know the engines need to be aligned properly but it should be pretty straight forward correct?
 

Bondo

Moderator
Staff member
Joined
Apr 17, 2002
Messages
70,525
I've done several engine swaps on cars and they aren't to crazy.

Ayuh,.... Boats are much, Much Easier, so long as the "Boat" stuff ain't in the way,...

Pull any seats 'n stuff, before ya start,....
Pull the drive,....
Pull the motor, straight up then out,....

Goin' the other way,...
Arrange the rear mount pieces(I tape it all into place with maskin' tape, the bolt pushes through easily),....
Set the motor, tighten the aft bolts, 'n check the alignment, adjust, finish boltin' in, 'n slap the drive back on,....
 
Top