Where Can I Find Tools Necessary For Gimble Bearing Repair in Salt Lake City?

itsmetibbs

Seaman
Joined
May 24, 2016
Messages
50
I've got to replace my lower shift cable, so I'm attacking the bellows, gimble bearing, gaskets, water pump and other stuff while I have the outdrive off. Will my local marine shop have tools to loan me like autozone would, or will I need to buy the tools necessary for the job myself?
 

Doneysitdown

Seaman Apprentice
Joined
Jul 5, 2011
Messages
49
I just did what you are about to do. I did it on a alpha 1 gen 1 To get my gimbal out I used a slide hammer and an axel bearing removal set (27033 slide hammer 27129 axel bearing removal set). Those are the autozone part numbers.
To drive the new bearing in I used the race for the old bearing mounted on a 2x4. I also have heard that 3" schedule 40 pvc works as well. Just gotta make sure it seats all the way in. When I pulled the gimbal I ended pulling the seal behind it. Depending on what type of bearing you get. (Permaseal or greaseable) You can just leave it out if it's a permaseal. I drove mine back in with a 36mm socket. You will need a 1/2 Allen head to get the hinge pins out. Might need to heat them up if they are stuck. They are usually loctited in. You will need an alignment tool to verify the alignment is good between the drive and the engine. I would think a marine shop would let you borrow theirs. For the shift cable I was able to use a 1/2 drive deep well socket. Not sure what you have but it worked for me. I would get a flexible shaft driver to get to to all the hose clamps. Also order some bellows adhesive with your bellows kit. A little heat helped me to get the bellows a bit more pliable. Other than that a case of beer and no where be for the next 6 hours you are good to go! Hope this helped and good luck!!
 

JASinIL2006

Vice Admiral
Joined
Feb 10, 2012
Messages
5,548
Make sure you leave the shift cable core behind as a guide for the new shift cable sleeve. If you just pull the shift cable out entirely (sleeve and core together) as the manual instructs, you will have an unpleasant task ahead of you. Leave the old core in there, and when it is time to feed the new shift cable sleeve in thru the transom, just slide it over the old core, which will guide the sleeve along the orrect path.
 

poconojoe

Lieutenant Commander
Joined
Sep 10, 2010
Messages
1,966
If you have a remote drive oil reservoir, be very careful of the fitting that goes through the transom. It is made of plastic and breaks very easily. It is almost impossible to replace it with your engine in the way. I managed to contort myself into my engine bay and feel back there and by a miracle get it done. Mine is a 4.3L in a 2003 185 Bayliner.
 

itsmetibbs

Seaman
Joined
May 24, 2016
Messages
50
I just did what you are about to do. I did it on a alpha 1 gen 1 To get my gimbal out I used a slide hammer and an axel bearing removal set (27033 slide hammer 27129 axel bearing removal set). Those are the autozone part numbers.
To drive the new bearing in I used the race for the old bearing mounted on a 2x4. I also have heard that 3" schedule 40 pvc works as well. Just gotta make sure it seats all the way in. When I pulled the gimbal I ended pulling the seal behind it. Depending on what type of bearing you get. (Permaseal or greaseable) You can just leave it out if it's a permaseal. I drove mine back in with a 36mm socket. You will need a 1/2 Allen head to get the hinge pins out. Might need to heat them up if they are stuck. They are usually loctited in. You will need an alignment tool to verify the alignment is good between the drive and the engine. I would think a marine shop would let you borrow theirs. For the shift cable I was able to use a 1/2 drive deep well socket. Not sure what you have but it worked for me. I would get a flexible shaft driver to get to to all the hose clamps. Also order some bellows adhesive with your bellows kit. A little heat helped me to get the bellows a bit more pliable. Other than that a case of beer and no where be for the next 6 hours you are good to go! Hope this helped and good luck!!


I just tried to take the drive off, but my boat is stuck in neutral, and won't go into forward because the shift cable is broken. Any ideas on how to get the drive off? I was thinking about taking the lower unit off, but I'm not sure that will work. Any ideas?
 

Doneysitdown

Seaman Apprentice
Joined
Jul 5, 2011
Messages
49
What kinda out drive you working on? When you pulled the bolts that connect the drive to bell housing was the drive loose? You should be able to separate the lower unit and turn the intermediate shift shaft parallel with boat and that will be forward gear
 

itsmetibbs

Seaman
Joined
May 24, 2016
Messages
50
What kinda out drive you working on? When you pulled the bolts that connect the drive to bell housing was the drive loose? You should be able to separate the lower unit and turn the intermediate shift shaft parallel with boat and that will be forward gear
I have an Alpha One Gen II on a 1991 Monterey 189 SCR. I just found this page that shows how I can do it http://forums.iboats.com/showthread.php?t=386100, but I wasn't sure it would work because the thread is about a Gen I. Don mentioned they changed the shift shafts on Gen IIs.
 

Doneysitdown

Seaman Apprentice
Joined
Jul 5, 2011
Messages
49
From what I can tell the concept between the gen ones and the twos are the same. Looks like the styles changed. If that doesn't work maybe start a new thread with this topic. I'm just starting out on my boating journey. As you can see by my post count.šŸ˜€. But I'll do my best to help out my fellow boater
 

itsmetibbs

Seaman
Joined
May 24, 2016
Messages
50
I finished up the project Last Tuesday and I've had the boat on the lake 2 times since then. I recorded the entire process, so I'll post a link to the videos when I have them uploaded. For now, here is a video of me discussing the challenges and problems I encountered. Any thoughts are appreciated. https://youtu.be/hHZOO8lcbuw
 
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