'97 4.3LX New Cap, Rotor, Plugs, Wires - but now weird starting problem

jkimball

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I need help! Sorry in advance for the long post, but I wanted to give as much info as possible.

I have a '97 Regal with a 4.3LX, 2bbl.

The boat was running fairly well, and starting as normal but I was having some slight hesitation when accelerating after prolonged idle and the number one suggestion was to check plugs, wires etc. (which that combined with a faulty elec. choke - which I replaced hopefully addressed the issue will find out tomorrow)

So I figured that since I've owned the boat since late August and I'm getting it ready for the summer anyhow I may as well do a tune up on it since parts are cheap and it's relatively easy to do.

All went well, some of the plugs are a pain to get to reaching over and under manifolds, but not that bad.

And I'm glad I did change them, because though they were in good shape (Gaps close to spec.) the plugs were carbon fouled (likely due to stuck choke) and the terminals on the inside of the cap were rusted and the rotor was worn & rusted as well.

So I changed plugs and wires first - yes one by one so as to not cross plug wires. Then I changed the cap and rotor - removing/replacing the wires again one by one and putting them on the corresponding new terminal on the new cap.

I didn't change the orientation of the distributor at all.

So I go to start the boat, and after about 2-3 revolutions I get a "clank" (for a lack of better terms) and it seems as if the motor tried to start, but stopped all the sudden. As if the timing was off I would think.

after it doing this maybe twice, it fires right up - runs beautifully with no hesitation or missing etc. and it starts 100% normal after that, normally if I just bump the key.

After reading other posts with similar issues - but not exact (they didn't replace ign. components and were usually underway when it happened) the number one gremlin seemed to be Hydrolock... which I didn't think was my case since the plugs I replaced were perfectly dry/free of rust and the boat hadn't been in the water or run recently.

So, I ran it on muffs for a few mins last night - making sure new choke worked. and let her sit overnight, today to hopefully rule out hydrolock (thinking if manifolds etc. were leaking they would do so overnight) - I decided I'd pull the "Kill Switch" to kill power to the ignition, and turn it over a few times (on muffs to not burn up impeller) to see if I still had the problem with no spark

I don't. It turned over beautifully with no hiccups.

So I replaced the switch to turn it over with full spark and start it up and it does it again - this time only once before she fires off, running beautifully and starting with a bump of the key thereafter....

so - what's going on? Is there something I missed in replacing the ign. components? Do I need to set the TB Ign. system in some learning mode? I'm kind of lost.
I don't think I crossed a wire somehow, because if I had wouldn't it run like crud?

Long story short -

1. Started fine with old ign. stuff but "needed" tune up due to rusty cap/rotor, carbon fouled plugs & hesitation
2. New Ign. Stuff, New Choke - Didn't touch timing
3. Go to start - turn, turn, turn, CLANK!!! (maybe twice) - turn, turn, Vroom!!!!
4. Runs beautifully here on out
5. Starts fine each time after initial issue above...

Help!!!
 

jkimball

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is this a round or flat dist cap


The top is somewhat rounded
here is the kit I got. It looked identical to the one it replaced.

Sierra International 18-5274 Tune Up Kit for Mercury Thunderbolt HEI V-6


Z
 
Last edited:

jkimball

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Ok standard cap, recheck the plug firing order


Thanks, so it sounds to you as if there may be a wire misplaced?
Even so, wouldn't it run rough once started?

Do you have a plug wire diagram for this engine?
 

jkimball

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Next question, what if the wires were touching each other/ laying over each other? Would that be a potential problem even though the wires are brand new and insulation is in good shape?
I know on SBC V8's this can be a problem if #5 & #7 are touching and one can energize the other via induction, but... I don't have a #7 cylinder to worry about...
 

Bt Doctur

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if something worked before somebody worked on it and now it dosent you can be sure the "fixer" missed something or did something wrong
Firing order is the easiest this to get wrong even moving the wires one by one.1,6,5,4,3,2
6 5
4 3
2 1
 

jkimball

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if something worked before somebody worked on it and now it doesn't you can be sure the "fixer" missed something or did something wrong
Firing order is the easiest this to get wrong even moving the wires one by one.1,6,5,4,3,2
6 5
4 3
2 1



Thank you, I think this will help.
On another note, just so I can make sure I have everything right. on the cap, for each terminal there are 2 sets of numbers stamped for which cylinder they correspond to, should I wire by using the first/ Inner (closest to coil/high tension terminal) or the second/ outer (closest to the outside of cap) set of numbers?

I will double check everything when I get home today to make sure it's right.
 

jkimball

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No Title

dist cap rotation is clockwise



So judging by the firing order, & Dist Rotation, the wiring should look like what I attached then right?
 

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jkimball

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Again, I replaced the cap in the EXACT orientation as it was removed and to the best that my memory serves me without being present to look at it right now, this is how it came off.
 

Bt Doctur

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I know all about it, I said the same thing hundreds of times and still got it wrong.
Staring with the #1 spark plug wire trace it back to the cap and then follow the firing order
Did you buy the tune-up package as a kit or individual parts. some have been known to have a v8 trigger wheel and not a v6 trigger wheel
 

jkimball

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I bought the kit, it came with all the components.
From the pic I uploaded did that look about right?
 

jkimball

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Ok. Just making sure. All the google images I can find show #1 Cyl closest to the front of the engine, but my original cap was oriented with #1 closest to the rear. So this is correct right?
#1 to the rear
 

Bondo

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Ok. Just making sure. All the google images I can find show #1 Cyl closest to the front of the engine, but my original cap was oriented with #1 closest to the rear. So this is correct right?
#1 to the rear

Ayuh,.... #1 is wherever the rotor is pointin' when the distributor is dropped in, when the motor is at TDC, #1,....

It Can be anywhere on the cap, the timin' indicator can tell ya more than a picture in a book,....
Once around, 'n it's either TDC or top of the exhaust stroke, 2nd time around will be the opposite,....
 

jkimball

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So I've checked the wiring order and it's correct, at least based off of the original cap and the firing order.
I'm still getting maybe a revolution or two then what seems to be a backfire (loud clank and plume of smoke through the carb. Then the next time cranking it'll fire right up and run great. Unless I let it sit a few mins then it'll repeat this.
I'm a little lost
I tried uploading a video but had no luck
 

Bt Doctur

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can you determine #1TDC compression, if not can you put the timing mark at 0 degrees .The rotor should be pointing to #1 in the cap. There are only 2 choices
being correct or being 180 degrees out of whack.
Set the timing mark at 0, where the rotor is pointing call #1 and place the plugs wires in a clockwise direction according to the firing order runs or dosent
If not running , set the timing mark at 0 again and see where the rotor is pointing. If in the same spot where you started with #! rotate the balancer 1 turn clockwise.
Now where the rotor is pointing call that #1 and do the plug wires clockwise again, runs or it dosent
 

flipbro

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You have two sets of numbers on the cap. Be sure you are going with the standard rotation. The ones closest to the plug terminals. The other are for counter rotation engine's.
 
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