95-98 5.7l types

alldodge

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A 27 pitch set would bring it down, the issue is they don't make a 3x3 set at 27 pitch. You could take your props and have a bit of cup added. The Bravo 3XR props are done in one inch steps but they are a 4 blade in front and 3 blade in rear. So you would stick with just the 26 pitch. Down side of getting into 4 blades is your going to get more lift, and I don't think you should do that

Reaching the speed your getting you in the area where hydraulic steering may be a safety change. One thing about the B3 it will turn on a dime and if your going fast enough have been able to throw a person out of their seat
 

Shabah180

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A 27 pitch set would bring it down, the issue is they don't make a 3x3 set at 27 pitch. You could take your props and have a bit of cup added. The Bravo 3XR props are done in one inch steps but they are a 4 blade in front and 3 blade in rear. So you would stick with just the 26 pitch. Down side of getting into 4 blades is your going to get more lift, and I don't think you should do that

Reaching the speed your getting you in the area where hydraulic steering may be a safety change. One thing about the B3 it will turn on a dime and if your going fast enough have been able to throw a person out of their seat

Yes you're right i felt that. The hull design on mariah's naturally the boat likes to lean into the turns, the smart tabs help that, and it bites into corners.
Its all about respecting the boat, i dont let just anyone drive it. Big step up from the 3.0 i had before. Haha!
 

alldodge

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What is a b-3 xr? I noticed you have one on your formula?

The B3-XR is the Bravo 1 XR upper, and the standard B3 lower. All the torque is applied in the upper section of the drive. My 502 is pushing 530HP and over 600 ft lb of torque. I need something that would stay together with the power.

The Bravo drive has a standard, X and XR and it will mate with all of the lowers (B1, B2, B3). Now the B1XR can also have the IMCO and sport master lower installed on them, but I'm getting way off your topic
 

Shabah180

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Thanks! Im not trying to disrespect the forum, by asking different questions so if im out of line just say.
For my year (1995) style of 5.7 would you think a b-3 and 26p is to much for that motor? It runs really well, smooth and idles perfect, throttle reacts quicker than id imagined for being carbureted.
And just so i know when i do decide to get an extra set of b-3 props if the 350 is skimming 5000 rpm would you fella's think a 27p is worth a shot? It only seems to hit 5000 at the cusp of trimming up too much, but ideal is 4400-4800. Next time its in id like to make sure my rpm gauge is calibrated.
Heading out to falcon lake again next weekend!
 

alldodge

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If your tach is accurate IMO your right where you want to be. Hitting 5K as the prop starts to ventilate tells me your their

Oh and you can go off topic, its your thread, I just shouldn't do it on my own
 

Shabah180

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If your tach is accurate IMO your right where you want to be. Hitting 5K as the prop starts to ventilate tells me your their

Oh and you can go off topic, its your thread, I just shouldn't do it on my own

Exactly, prop ventilation was the word i was looking for that means im over trimming and putting the rpm's high on my own. Ill have more time to play around on it next weekend,
600lbs of torque on your 502, that is insane! Haha!
So, in your experience, if it accidentally touches 5k a few times here and there does that run the risk of hurting the motor? I made myself dizzy first top speed run, eyes on tach, eyes on water, eyes on tach, eyes on water, i run on a quiet lake in the whiteshell in manitoba, once i become confident on it ill run a bigger lake, b-3 makes it easy to maneuver at slow speeds, doesnt take much on the throttle to hop her up on plane.
I cant imagine what a 502 is like to drive, must be ridiculous amounts of power. Double the horsepower of a 350. Crazy!
 

alldodge

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Don't let it stay there long and try to keep it away from it, you never know when something may happen.

My boat weights around 11K loaded, so that much power only gets me to 47mph, but I also have more then 20 percent prop slip, this is what I'm working on
 

Shabah180

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Don't let it stay there long and try to keep it away from it, you never know when something may happen.

My boat weights around 11K loaded, so that much power only gets me to 47mph, but I also have more then 20 percent prop slip, this is what I'm working on

Thats a whole new ball game for me! Lol how do you know or calculate prop slip?
 

Shabah180

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I use bblades
http://bblades.com/propeller-slip-calculator/

But there are others just search prop slip calculator. Bbaldes allows you to either any of the fields and then select calculate on the one you want.

Alldodge, whats the purpose of a "drive shower" i seen one on a boat recently, with pistons on borh sides of the drive attached to the transom. Assuming it was for steering,
And when or why would you need a drive shower?
Thanks for any insight!
 

thumpar

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A drive shower covers the drive with water as it goes down the lake. It keeps the drive cooler and helps with the calcium film. What you saw sounds like external hydraulic steering. It is usually used in high horsepower speedboats. I know a guy with twin 6.2ls and bravo 1 drives that has it.
 

alldodge

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A drive shower can help any boater, but mostly high performance boats. The showers are needed with boats that do a lot of high speed running, and have high HP. If your tubing, short runs (5 miles), and then your sitting, there is little if any benefit. Anything that is kept cooler can increase longevity.

Most showers require to drill a hole in the cav plate and run a hose up. There is one shower which no holes are needed. Just google outdrive shower, there are many to choose from
 

Shabah180

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Was just curious when i saw a b-1 that looked like it got assimilated by the borg off star trek or something. Pretty cool idea though!
I wonder if this is approved by mercruiser? Does it void the warranty on new drives?
 

alldodge

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Can not say if it would void or not. In my opinion, if it failed internally and it had a holes in the cav plate they could say you owe the cost of the lower housing. Would they do that, don't know
 

thumpar

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You could get the type that uses the trim ram to mount to. There is no modification needed and could be taken off without anyone knowing.
 

Shabah180

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Well, its been a great season on the water!!
Unfortunately due to work, and minor engine issues ( belt shavings in bilge) under the power steering pulley, my seasons almost over.
One thing im curious of, after taking out my bench seat and the 2 pieces on either side of the motor i was able to get a real close look. Directly underneath the carb, on top of the block, ( port and starboard) theres 2 spots that seem to be prone to rusting. Small angled squared spots. The rest of the motor is rust free, except these 2 small areas, no water seems to be pooling.
I know it may be hard to envision, seems like id have to take the entire carb assembly off and this small area is part of a large piece on the top of the block.
Id like to take care of this before it becomes a real issue.
Any thoughts? Hope the explanation makes sense.. Haha!
 

Bondo

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Directly underneath the carb, on top of the block, ( port and starboard) theres 2 spots that seem to be prone to rusting. Small angled squared spots. The rest of the motor is rust free, except these 2 small areas, no water seems to be pooling.

Ayuh,.... Ya mean on the intake manifold,..??

That's where the exhaust cross-over is, it heats the fuel charge under the carb,....
They always rust there from the extra heat,....
 
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