95-98 5.7l types

alldodge

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So the drive wont experience any electrolisis or galvanic corrosion if the battery is taken out?

Never leave the boat in the water without a battery in the water, it needs to be their for the bilge pump.

The plug in I'm talking about is plug into shore power. You can still have some corrosion but not near as much as if is plugged in. The main issue is the B3 drive and the large amounts of stainless steel with the two props. The B1 doesn't have near the issue as a B3.

As for how fast you will go, IMO your going to easy hit 60 mph and probably a bit more. You have a 18 footer with an 5.7, it's going to move, be careful with it especially if you get much about 60, you could start to chin walk
 

Shabah180

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Yes the guys in the mariah's owners club warned me about chine walking and its not a pleasent experience ive heard. It has trim tabs but only 60lb ers.
I heard as well, the mercathode system is standard too, im going to see how this season goes, a b3 looks good and all but maybe a b1 might be better. Its expensive to replace props, first thing im going to check once the shrink wrap comes off will be if it had the system. That boat originally had an alpha drive.

And ya i kinda walked into the bilge pump thing haha! Homer simpson " D'OH!"

Im sure she'll tote the mail boys, thanks for taking a minute to explain things.. Helps out a lot!!!! Lol
 

thumpar

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Stick with the B3. That thing will fly out of the water with it. I like the B1 over the Alpha but wouldn't mind having a B3.
 

Shabah180

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Ok so wot hole shot, lots of you guys are sporting massive motors ( with boats built to take them) where is the stress primarily? All focused on the transom? Or distributed through the transom and motor mounts?
 

Fun Times

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Do you guys know if the the 95' carbbed has a computer? Or is it only the efi's? I read somewhere you can have a ddt scan and it tells you the actual hrs on the motor, right from the motor itself.
Being a 1995 engine model, it may not read the engine hours due to it possibly being the first ignition module design.
Had it been a 1996+ then possibly yes someone with an marine scan tool and the correct adaptor harness could read engine hours on a carbureted engine.

From Rinda technologies: 1996-up Carbureted engines with Thunderbolt V ignition: All models Adapter #94020
 

Shabah180

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Being a 1995 engine model, it may not read the engine hours due to it possibly being the first ignition module design.
Had it been a 1996+ then possibly yes someone with an marine scan tool and the correct adaptor harness could read engine hours on a carbureted engine.

From Rinda technologies: 1996-up Carbureted engines with Thunderbolt V ignition: All models Adapter #94020

I just dont understand how they can tell me its a 95' with approx 130 hrs on motor. Maybe 130 out of the 230 hrs on the boat life, unless in 98' they could have gotten a brand new 95' crate motor. Or rebuilt.
Salesmen told me its an efi, the old man who did the swap tells me its a 4 barrel carb.
The joys of finding out what you needed to know after the fact huh? Haha! Wont know much until i get in there and check seriel number etc.
Thanks bud.
 

thumpar

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Take the flame arrester cover off and look to see what you have. EFI will have injectors on top of the throttle body.
 

Shabah180

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Thumpar, when i go do the run up, because i only had a quick peek at the motor when i bought it, and i do trust the dealership, they have a good name here, but i like to make sure. Is it too much to ask for a compression test? Or is this normally provided, as well, what should i visually be looking for? Some guys can just look at manifolds and risers and know they need to be changed.
What numbers am i ideally looking for in a compression test? Im assuming theres a test for the b-3 as well.
 

Shabah180

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Id like to post a pic but it says 1 picture is over 2 mb? Finally picked her up today
 

Bondo

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Id like to post a pic but it says 1 picture is over 2 mb? Finally picked her up today

Ayuh,.... I post pictures at photo hostin' sites like photobucket, 'n link 'em back to the thread,....

480x 640 displays the best on a forum,...
 

Shabah180

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Im not sure if this worked. I uploaded photo's to this flicker but maybe ill try something else. Because i dont see photos and we dont have a desktop, daughter has a laptop but im not allowed to touch it. Lol!!
 

alldodge

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Photobucket has been working pretty well for folks
You have some corrosion showing on the housing edge. Need to remove the props, clean and repaint. The carrier housing on a B3 usually needs some attention as well

Slide1.JPG

Slide2.JPG

Nice looking boat
Slide3.JPG
 

Shabah180

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Photobucket has been working pretty well for folks
You have some corrosion showing on the housing
edge. Need to remove the props, clean and repaint. The carrier housing on a B3 usually needs some attention as well





Nice looking boat

Thanks alldodge!! I noticed there was corrosion, stainless and aluminum are bad metals to combine.
Pretty simple to pull the props off a b-3?
 

alldodge

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Thanks alldodge!! I noticed there was corrosion, stainless and aluminum are bad metals to combine.
Pretty simple to pull the props off a b-3?

Yes simple, get a 2x4 to put between the cavitation plate and the prop. Need a 1 7/16 inch socket and just remove the nut, then the rear prop.
The next nut is 2 3/4, kind of big. There is a socket made by Merc and others and quite pricey. So you can use a large adjustable wrench, monkey wrench or one of these
Photo992.jpg
 

thumpar

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Make sure your Mercathode is working and anodes are good. Nice boat. I almost bought the same boat but with red gelcoat before I found my Crown.
 

Shabah180

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Awsome!! About the mercathode, the mercruiser tech of 20 yrs said that ifidont leave the boat inthe water all the time, and my anodes are kept up, and i runfreshwater, the b-3 doesnt require that system. Because i told him to put one on id pay for it. But he said dont. The b-3 has 130 hrs on it so far.
But i assure u i will be getting one installed!
These guys dont believe in topping the tanks before winterizing. Thats the first step i thought, fill and stabalize. They just stabalize whats brought in to them and thats it. Condensation may build.

Alldodge, i ran out quick but only found plastic prop wrenches. Ill have to look a bit harder when i have more time was a busy day on the boat! Lol

As always thanks for taking the time for advice, so far u guys are spot on everything! Haha!
 

thumpar

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If you don't have a mercathode that could be part of the corrosion. Most Bravos came with it. My 1996 B1 has it and looks new. You especially want it with a B3 because of all the stainless.
 
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