Bayliner leaking :(

ilove2fixx

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Feb 13, 2016
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Hi guys my 03 bayliner 175 3.0 mercury is leaking i believe its the shift cable boot its all ripped up, can i replace just the boot without taking the whole drive off ?
2nd issue is it wont start , sometimes it does for a split second or 2 and cuts off a couple times it did for 10 seconds and when i go give it throtlle itll cut off unless i give it a lot of throttle.. seems like a feul issue or carb issue right ?
 

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Bt Doctur

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No, drive comes off , shift cable removed, boot replaced, install shift cable, install drive
 

Bondo

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Ayuh,.... If the shift cable bellows is ripped, ALL the bellows need changin',.... They'll rip, 'n tear soon,...

'n a new shift cable, yer's got water in it, causin' it to drag, killin' yer motor,....

Both yer problems point to a need to rebuild the transom assembly,....
 

ilove2fixx

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Ayuh,.... If the shift cable bellows is ripped, ALL the bellows need changin',.... They'll rip, 'n tear soon,...

'n a new shift cable, yer's got water in it, causin' it to drag, killin' yer motor,....

Both yer problems point to a need to rebuild the transom assembly,....

All that work for that little boot ? The other rubbers look good and not dry at all..looks like new in there no rust no damage no nothing just that boot ripped , maybe by someone or something i bet ..
But if you guys say so ill take your advice..
So what do i have to order now ?
 

ilove2fixx

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Feb 13, 2016
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And you said a transom rebuild becuase of that little bellow ripped ? You said that is the cause of the engine not wanting to run? I have a feeling it s. A fuel issue.m the fuel was sittig for many months and i added new fuel and seafoam , which is probably made it worse
 

denhajm

Seaman
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Nov 24, 2012
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The leaking 'boot' (shift cable bellows) and any other leaking items can sink you boat. Not fun and not safe. If there is water in the shift bellows, you're shift cable is likely corroded and not moving smoothly. Read again what Bondo said a couple of times. I've had experience with a bad/old/worn shift cable. It will cut out/kill your engine when you're trying to shift in/out of gear because there is an engine interrupt switch built into the system to help facilitate gear shifting--but this system only works with a properly lubed/functioning/adjusted shift cable. They are finicky. But a new one is sooo nice!
 

Bondo

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The other rubbers look good and not dry at all..

Ayuh,.... The bellows are a 5 year service life parts,....

No matter how ya do the math, yer's are probably well over-due,....

With some close pokin', There'll be dry rot crackin' in the drive bellows, the most important one, shift cable is 2nd, exhaust ain't so critical,....
 

Newbie@boats

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Apr 6, 2010
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536
My boat had the same issue as yours without the stalling issue, I thought I could do one bellow and be done but yes you have to remove the outdrive which is a piece of cake, just do all your bellows now and not worry about it for another 5 years like stated....once I started poking around I replaced the water intake hose as well and the oil line for the gear oil res
 

Newbie@boats

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Apr 6, 2010
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I am sure that kit will work perfectly fine for you boat, when I did mine I popped the out drive off and my bearing looked brand new, I re applied grease to it and have had no issues with it......worst case save that bearing if you don't change it now....eventually you may
 

Rick Stephens

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Aug 13, 2013
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You'll have a hard time getting anyone who has done a lot of bellows installs, or hung out on this forum very long, to comment positively about aftermarket bellows kits. Pretty much none of us will use em any longer. They are a lot harder to install than OEM, and while they cost a lot less, they also don't last nearly as well - IMHO. And as far as commenting on eBay sources, you are on the iBoats Forum - run by a company that sells these items at a decent price AND offers support and service to go with. Nothing wrong with picking your path here. Just know that it is hard to make a lot of positive comments since most of us won't go that route. The kits linked will work fine in your boat. No idea how easy they will be to install or how long they will last.

Rick
 

Benny67

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Apr 21, 2015
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571
Go with all quicksilver parts....GLM stuff is okay..but nothing beats OEM parts

Change all bellows,shift cable,gimble bearing,change drive oil and pressure test drive for leaks( after you drain the old oil of course) probably wouldnt be a bad idea to split the drive and do a check on the water impeller as well.

This way there is no guessing and you are not tearing it apart again in another year or two.Do all of this and you should be good for at least 3 seasons....2 seasons on the water pump.

Gimble bearing is not a mandatory...I always change it when I'm doing boots.I'd rather just not guess and have all of the stuff fresh and new so I can enjoy the season. It's worth the extra time and money to me so I have one less thing to worry about.
 

Benny67

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Apr 21, 2015
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Rick is right as far as sending business the way of iboats.

I am fairly new to boating and I have found that this forum that is hosted by iboats is by far the best infomation on boat repair on the internet today. It would be nice to support them.

There prices are reasonable too
 

Newbie@boats

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I would say use OEM parts on this job as well once you start to take it all apart you will shortly see why wouldn't want to cheap out on parts...iBoats is a great source as well, I ordered my prop, spark plugs, oil, etc from there super fast shipping much faster then waiting for the seller to ship something off eBay
 

ilove2fixx

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Feb 13, 2016
Messages
501
Yeah i get you guys.. ill compare prices of oem mercury /quicksilver kits and see whos cheaper..

I did replace the impeller and All oils last month..

I think ill go ahead and replace the gimbal bearing since it comes with it.. and how about alignment ? Its like the more i ask the more stuff i end up doing lol.. before you know it ill be out $500 in parts lol
 
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