Going to attempt my own bellows exchange/transom assy rebuild... ready for pointers!

[bigblock454]

Hey folks! I've posted my new purchase in my sig, and have a few other little posts floating around here, getting some good help/feedback. Sooo.... I'm getting ready to rebuild my gimbal assembly, transom assembly, whatever that whole mess is called. I got in the mail recently all the following: Transom rebuild kit from sierra, including bellows, gimbal bearing, gaskets, hoses, etc. Got a lower shift cable (with another shift cable bellow), bellows adhesive. Got QS tilt/trim send units. I also got an exhaust "tube" separate from the exhaust bellow that came with the kit. I hear they are easier to install, and I don't mind (a little) throatier of a sound, if there is indeed a difference. Got my Moellers Zinc Chromate and gloss black acrylic urethane (got the latter from Summit Racing). Got some "perfect seal". I think that's about it. Also ordered a QS water impeller kit, but that's not in yet. A buddy of mine who's expertise is boat repair, has my lower unit at this time, and is going through it to make sure she's good to go. Anyway... I'm ready to get my transom assy apart, so I can clean, strip, and repaint everything before I attempt to get her back together. I have the hinge pin removal tool (pins nicely loosened now), and the shift cable special socket. I've read quite a bit on the subject (including the factory manual), but always willing to learn from the more experienced! I will post a pic here of my transom assembly in it's current state to better show the extent of what I call "moderate" corrosion. I bought a drill mounted paint/rust stripper wheel. But figured I'd ask before using something maybe way more aggressive than needed. Thanks for any pointers, tips and help! Norm

 

[bigblock454]

My other posts mention that I BELIEVE the outdrive that came with this boat, is more than likely a 1:62:1 drive, seeing as how it came with a 5.0 from the factory. It now has a 5.7 in it. My buddy will let me know exactly what it is. I am now steering towards "just leave it". If it is a 1:62, I will just take it easy on her. I was thinking of shelling out the big bucks to either buy a new SEI 1:47:1 unit or "re-gear" my drive to a 1:47;1 ratio. But if all checks out, I may just opt to put new seals and such, and run what I got. That way I can let the boat "prove her worthiness" over the next season, and if I want (or if the outdrive can't handle it), I can re gear or replace later. Just my thoughts... for now.

Norm

 

[bigblock454]

So... what's the best way to get the "moderate" amount of fouling off my tilt cylinders and gimbal assy... is there a spray chemical... good ol' fashioned elbow grease maybe?? I guess no harm in breaking apart the hydraulic fittings and removing them to bring into the heated workshop to clean and rehab... right? Or best to leave them be and treat them where they hang? Yup... never removed tilt cylinders from my boats before... can't see why it would hurt though... yet! :facepalm:

Norm

 

[San_Diego_SeaRay]

I'm currently rebuilding a couple of mid-80s Alpha One Gen One transom assemblies myself. I'm getting mine powder coated for $150/each, which includes them blasting the previous corrosion and paint off. I provided them the gimbal housing, the gimbal ring, the transom plate, the steering arm, bell housing, and hydraulic distribution block (plugged w. bolts). Since it's being powder coated, I had to take off ALL the rubber or plastic pieces, which included the oil seals for the 3 "other" bearings (other than the Gimbal Bearing). I'm also replacing those other bearings, so mine is a pretty comprehensive rebuild.

 

[DeepBlue2010]

So... what's the best way to get the "moderate" amount of fouling off my tilt cylinders and gimbal assy... is there a spray chemical... good ol' fashioned elbow grease maybe?? I guess no harm in breaking apart the hydraulic fittings and removing them to bring into the heated workshop to clean and rehab... right? Or best to leave them be and treat them where they hang? Yup... never removed tilt cylinders from my boats before... can't see why it would hurt though... yet! :facepalm:

Norm

Take them out with a flare wrench; don't use regular open end wrench otherwise you will strip the nut. Plug the holes in the hydraulic box so they don't get dirt inside the lines. use bolts to do that.

Remove the lines from the rams and extend the arm in and out couple of times to get rid of the oil inside.. Go to the automotive store and buy 4 plugs for the rams to keep the ports plugged while you are working.
Wash well with de greaser. De wax with Acetone.
With a stainless steel wire brush on an angle grinder, get them nice and clean.. Don't insist in removing all paint to bar metal. If the factory black is good and not flaking, leave it alone. Wash again and dewax again. The same goes for all other parts. IF you are not going to replace the bushings in the ring, mask them off. next steps will depends on your desired finish. Are you painting or powder coating? [h=3][/h]

 

[JustJason]

Make sure you have a box of band aides. A box of rubber gloves. A bottle of baby powder. And rags. And pay extra attention to try to keep your hands clean. If you can do that it's al downhill from there.

 

[Mercruiser420]

IMO, rust/paint stripper or wire wheel may by too abrasive for aluminum. I'd use a brass wheel on a drill. Brass won't scratch aluminum.

As for sierra bellows, I made that mistake once and bought a Sierra kit and my experience was as follows:

1- u-joint bellows very tight/stiff, wouldn't slide on very easily and that quick drying adhesive doesn't help. If it dries before you pop it on your in trouble. You have to get it on the bellhousing first then use the bellhousing to push the other end onto the transom plate. While doing that I ended up ripping it and buying a QS one that slid on like a wet dream. Only then I learned why they stamp "Mercury precision parts" on their products.

2- the Sierra gimbal bearing inside diameter seems to be a little small as my outdrive struggles to go in with new o-rings on the input shaft.

3- if you don't have the bellows expansion tool, just put the exhaust tube on and don't even bother with the bellows; they are semi-impossible to get on without the tool unless you have all day and don't mind beating up your hands.

Now that was me. It might work better for you.

Finally, DO check your engine alignment when your all done; its EXTREMELY important. I'm guessing your buddy has all the tools needed (puller, alignment tool etc)

 

[bigblock454]

Awesome feedback, and MUCH appreciated!! DeepBlue, I will use what you wrote as a "checklist"! Just going to shoot acrylic urethane on it, as of now. I like the thought of powder coating it, but don't know if I want to tear it all down to do that. All is nice and tight at the moment. Thank you! JustJason... you know... in the past I never wore or worried about gloves. Always thought "mechanics will just have dirty hands". Not so anymore! I like the protection from the chemicals, as well as the oil/grease. Roger on the band-aids! S-T-S, sounds like you are doing it "the right way". Maybe I should consider going to that extent. Is the factory finish PC or paint?? 420, I was thinking the same thing (wheel being too aggressive), so I'm glad I asked. I hear ss brush is better for alum. Actually... I believe that's because I'm usually tig welding it. The brass tends to foul the aluminum a little bit. They recommend a ss wheel that has never been used on another type of alloy... again, that's for welding. I'm afraid of same with the sierra parts... but it was actually here, that a lot of users say lately they've had good luck with aftermarket. I hope so. The biggest reason I went with them is because most everything came in a single kit. I'm sure that's why most who choose them do. My buddy, who does this stuff everyday, was the biggest at steering me away, saying "it's up to you how you want to spend your money, but we've not had problems with aftermarket. Funny thing is... My 2052 needed a bellows and shift cable exchange last year. I paid to have it done. The marina told me exact same thing! He said "We can use the QS parts if you like... obviously the cost will be higher, but we've had no issues with sierra". So I elected for them to use the sierra parts. They feel/look good, and performed good for one busy boating season so far. Now... these guys do this everyday, and may have a better approach and more experience to deal with "non-precision" parts. I dunno. Frankly, I'm second guessing my purchase again. We'll see, and I'll report back. Yes, I will be borrowing the proper tools to do this, including an engine alignment tool. I agree, one would be foolish not to check something so important (and easy to check) as that. OR... I will take my time cleaning, painting, etc., then just ask my buddies to complete with the re-assembly. I really want to do it myself though. Always have done my own work and fabrication. Thanks to all for your posts! Anything else??

Norm

 

[998cc]

And don't forget eye protection, especially when using rotary brushes.

Typing this while looking through a 30 year-old corneal scratch in my right eye.
Russ
998cc

 

[bigblock454]

Darn decent of you to post that warning Russ... all too easy to cause damage to our bodies doing what we do. Thanks man.

Norm

 

[thumpar]

One tip I can give you for the water inlet hose is to have a pot of boiling water going. Put the end in it (not touching the bottom of the pot) and let it sit in the water for a few minutes. It will slide onto the transom side like butter. I have heard of people having problems getting it on and I had no issues doing it that way.

For the u-joint bellows get a flex shaft for your screwdriver. It makes it much easier to get to the hose clamps. They are really chap at Harbor Freight.

Make sure you use bellows adhesive. Let it set up before putting them on.

For the exhaust bellows (if not using a tube) you can make the $3 tool listed in the adults only section. That is what I used.

 

[bigblock454]

Cool beans, Thumpar!! Good tips!! Thanks a ton! Happy Thanksgiving to all fellow iBoaters and all who they love!!

Norm