Outdrive advice...

[tonyjh63]

Ok, dropped my new-to-me boat (1999 model 4.3 Mercuriser with Alpha 1 outdrive) off at the shop today to have it thoroughly checked out. When I told them I want my gauges and tilt/trim unit working properly (some previous owner installed a plate with toggle switches to control the tilt/trim), I was told that the problem was probably the sending units,and since they would have to take the outdrive off to fix that, then I might as well have the bellows replaced while they're in there - makes sense to me - do y'all agree with this? Btw, there are no service records available, so no idea if the bellows have ever been changed. I was quoted $1000 to change out the bellows/gimbal bearing. Any advice is appreciated...

 

[tpenfield]

That's what happens when you drop off your boat to have it checked out. . .

Are you looking for guidance on the price or the scope of the work?

The prescribed method of replacing the trim senders is to remove the outdrive and bell housing. But as a D-I-Y, it can be done with the outdrive on. Removal of the bell housing is disruptive to the bellows, so a dealer/shop probably would not want to do the senders without doing the bellows.

 

[thumpar]

If that includes everything needed and completed and working it sounds right. If it is only for bellows and gimbal bearing it is way high.

 

[Scott Danforth]

Bellows and gimbal bearing service is a tad over $600 around here. So if all-in repair, $1 BOAT unit sounds right

 

[tonyjh63]

Thumpar and Scott Danforth, by "everything" and "all-in", do y'all mean, the titt/trim working, new bellows and gimbal bearing installed, and the gauges all working? With that, then $1000 sounds about right? Thanks for the advice!

 

[thumpar]

Thumpar and Scott Danforth, by "everything" and "all-in", do y'all mean, the titt/trim working, new bellows and gimbal bearing installed, and the gauges all working? With that, then $1000 sounds about right? Thanks for the advice!

Yes. With all the repairs that need to be done $1000 sounds about right.

 

[tonyjh63]

Well, heard from my boat mechanic today...not good...He tells me that the reason a previous owner had to install a metal plate on which to put toggle switches for the trim/tilt function was because they had installed a control unit from an outboard motor, one that was incompatible with the Alpha 1 in the boat. The bellows are also installed incorrectly, and the tachometer is no longer functional, so I'll need a new one (he said he believes mine are Teleflex, but I thought Bryants came with VDO gauges?) It's also missing the oil reservoir for the outdrive. So...I have the choice of running it as is (ghetto-rigged to the hilt), as it does function, or spend $2500 to get all that fixed - plus getting my interior redone. Well, since I want my boat to function as intended by the manufacturer, I told my mechanic to go ahead and get it done - OUCH! Wish me luck!

 

[thumpar]

I would go with Faria for the tach. I have heard the VDO gauges die a lot.

 

[garbageguy]

...Wish me luck!

Good luck! Sorry, couldn't resist.

Not having the time, or place, to do work I could have done, has put me at the mercy of others at times. Hopefully, you've found someone you can trust - it usually isn't the least expensive way, to start, but pays off in the long run.

 

[alldodge]

Don't see an extra 1500 for a tach and some switches, but there may be other things involved. As for Bryants and VDO's cannot say, but VDO makes some good stuff.

 

[thumpar]

Don't see an extra 1500 for a tach and some switches, but there may be other things involved. As for Bryants and VDO's cannot say, but VDO makes some good stuff.

I think some of it is the replacement of the pump since it is not the right one. They are pretty spendy.

 

[tonyjh63]

Just thought I'd give an update for any who are interested...
Here is what has been replaced:
Control box (UFlex B184)
Tach (Faria Chesapeake)
Gimbal ring (Alpha 1 Gen 2)
Trim sender unit
Outdrive gasket
Merc valve kit
Merc speedo coupling
Merc "connector" (?)
Merc "hole plug kit" (?)

It's now been winterized (kinda unfortunate, 'cause I really wouldn't mind taking her for a spin on the lake this weekend - supposed to be near 70 deg!)
I still need to get the interior redone (wondering if the black stains on the vinyl can be cleaned off real well, then have the vinyl "painted". Then have the few tears repaired?)
So...slowly but surely, I'm getting this neglected old Bryant back into good shape - should be in really good shape by the time spring rolls around!

 

[tonyjh63]

Got another question. Looking around on the sterndrive, it has "2.00R" and "OM413039" on the port side. I believe the "2.00R" indicates that the drive ratio is 2.00:1, correct? However, according to what I've read on the 'net, my 4.3 shouldn't have been mated to such a high drive ratio. So what gives? Is this normal, or has that drive been replaced sometime in the past? (1999 Bryant 182 Limited, 4.3 Mercruiser with Alpha One Gen II).
The reason I'm even looking at this is to gather as much info as I can, just in case I have questions/problems later, such as prop advice in the future. Thanks again for any advice.
P.S. Also, exactly what does the 2.00:1 ratio mean? Is it 2 revolutions of the drive shaft per 1 revolution of the prop, or the other way around? (I'm thinking it's the former, since I've read that the smaller engines, i.e., 3.0 and 4.3, use the higher ratios - I figure the smaller engines, with less torque, need the lower gearing?).

 

[alldodge]

Serial number is 1998 and up Gen 2
Ratio is 2.0:1 = two engine revs to one prop rev
The 2.0 will increase the torque to the prop. The low the number the faster the prop spins and the lower the pitch prop needs to be unless HP/Torque increases based on the boat weight. So if you currently have 19 to 21 pitch prop now, you still have room to change if needed. If your turning a 28 pitch (high) or 15 (low there is not so much room for change if needed.

 

[tonyjh63]

Hey AllDodge, thanks for the response! So, do the boat manufacturers simply adjust what prop they install on a boat, depending on what drive they receive/order from Mercury/Volvo, size/weight of the boat, etc., and therefore there is no reason to think that my boat wouldn't/couldn't have come from the factory with a 2.00R drive? And, all else being equal, would a slower turning, but higher pitch prop be more efficient (less slip) than one with a lower pitch that has to turn faster to get the same boat speed and engine RPM? Thanks!

 

[alldodge]

The manufactures during design they test various ratios and determine what is best. Examples: My 4800 lb Rinker came with a 1.50 drive and 7.4 motor. The same boat with a 5.7 gets a 1.65. Think of it like the motor needs to be geared down as power is reduced.

As for efficiency slower or faster prop turn does not increase or decrease efficiency, lugging a motor will decrease efficiency. If the motor can reach max WOT this is the pitch prop which should be used for best results IMO. If you can only reach 3500 rpm at WOT, but can curse at 2000 rpm this can sound good. The motor is turning slower at cruise speed, but in actuality the motor is drinking a lot of fuel just to keep the engine going. Get the cruise rpm up to 2800 rpm and the motor now burns less fuel because it's not working as hard

 

[thumpar]

The 4.3l would not have mated to a 2.0:1 drive. You may want to check to see that it is the real ratio. You can turn the motor by hand to calculate how many revolution it takes to turn the prop 1 time.

 

[muc]

The drive S/N OM413039 was built and sold Jan 2002. It was never registered so no further info is available on it. It?s not the original drive.
If you post your engine or transom S/N, I might be able to tell you what came with the boat from the factory.
One possible reason for a 4.3L to have a 2.00 : 1 ratio is if the boat was going to be used a high altitudes.
Just because the driveshaft housing has 2.00 stamped in doesn?t mean for sure the drive is a 2.00. it?s possible the gears have been replaced and the housing didn?t get restamped.
There are 2 ways to be sure what ratio you have. 1 count the drive shaft revolutions vs the prop shaft revolutions or 2 remove the top cap and count the teeth of the drive gear and driven gear.

 

[tonyjh63]

^^^Hey Muc, is either option above "doable" in the backyard someone who is not mechanically inclined? How difficult is either procedure? I'll look for the transom S/N tomorrow (I don't think I can get the engine S/N - I"ve looked before, and the sticker thingie on the breather is all jacked up. Is there somewhere else to look for it?) Thanks!

 

[muc]

You could try Thumpar's suggestion of rotating the engine while counting prop revolutions. Be sure to disconnect the battery and remove all the spark plugs before attempting.

The serial number might be on a plate that is attached to the engine block a little above and aft of where the starter bolts on. Hint: if your head won't fit back there, use a camera to take a picture of it.