These holes look important......are these important?

Mrcleaningguys

Seaman Apprentice
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Aug 7, 2015
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46
Almost seems as though a hose could be ran from the carb to the block. I noticed some smoke coming from the lower hole. Not much and could be oil burning off, not sure. Boat hasn't ran in 3 years. Could that have anything to do with it? Fired right up though! Ran until I put it in gear. Then stalled. Smoke kind of made me paraboid so haven't tried since....
 

biggjimm

Chief Petty Officer
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Jul 15, 2015
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403
I can't tell what holes your talking about in the photo, I can't see them. But it looks like the choke heater tube is gone. What engine is this? 3.0L? That threaded nipple on the choke housing should have a piece of tubing that threads onto it & pushes into a hole in the manifold down below the choke. That sends warm air to the choke so it will open as your engine warms up.
 

ziggy

Admiral
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Jun 30, 2004
Messages
7,473
i agree w/biggmimm.
the stove pipe to the manifold is missing. it transfers hot air to a coil sping in the auto choke. the warmer the spring is, the more it unwinds the spring thus opening the choke.


the pic is of a '75 165 L6. the cloth covering is oem. heat trapping cloth, i don't know. other than a cloth covered pipe. it's just a pipe that slides down in between the manifold and the block. the cloth stops where it disappears manifold.
 
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Mrcleaningguys

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Aug 7, 2015
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Hey jim. I think its a 4.1 but not positive. Mercruiser 165 inline 6. That threaded nipple on the carburetor and the small unthreaded nipple on the exhaust manifold are the ones i was talking about. Good picture Ziggy. Know where I can get that cloth covered pipe?
 

ziggy

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Jun 30, 2004
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I think its a 4.1 but not positive. Mercruiser 165 inline 6
yep, a chevy 250 cid. which is 4.1 liters.
Know where I can get that cloth covered pipe?
nope, my guess would be it's nla. however. ya might be able to make one. i've had two boats, both with 165 mercruisers. my first one that stove pipe had rusted away. if i remember right, i used some brake line to make one. that worked ok but i had the nut that threaded onto the choke and was able to reuse that part. you don't have the nut, imho, that would be the obstical. if ya can find a nut, the tube would be the easy part.
here's where that pipe leads off to.

hopefully that will help ya out.
 

fishrdan

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Jan 25, 2008
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6,989
I suppose I'll have to change that. The main line from the tank to the pump is solid. I assume the PO used this tubing to make the electric fuel pump fit.

Looks like the PO caused some serious safety issues....

- The fuel pump to carb should be solid metal line (IE: brake line) as Thumper said. Supported in the middle with a clip.
- The use of an electric fuel pump also requires an additional oil pressure switch wired into the electrical circuit, was this done?
- The fuel line from the tank to pump should NOT be solid, it should be rubber "A1" marine fuel hose.
- All rubber hoses should be double-clamped (not a single over-sized clamp as shown in the pic)
 

Mrcleaningguys

Seaman Apprentice
Joined
Aug 7, 2015
Messages
46
I wired the oil pressure safety switch in myself. I had to redo most of the original wiring as there was multiple colors, splices, loose ends everywhere. PO had the fuel pump ran to a toggle switch on the dash. I fixed it. Need to fix fuel lines now. I adjusted the shift cables and got the boat running and shifting like it just came off the lot in 1979 though! I'm excited.....few more things and she's water ready
 

Bondo

Moderator
Staff member
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Apr 17, 2002
Messages
70,514
Need to fix fuel lines now.

Ayuh,.... If it ain't already got a canister type fuel filter, ya really oughta add one, 'tween the tank, 'n fuel pump,....
 
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