Just ordered new 4.3 longblock.... now what?

[moparron]

Just ordered a new longblock today.
1) I need to figure out if I can user my engine hoist to do the job. I know I need to pull the outdrive for re-alignment, so I figure I'll pull the swim platform and HOPEFULLY be able to use my lift in the driveway (versus a tree somewhere, or paying the marina repair yard $100 twice)
2) I need to figure out what all I am pulling... just the motor? or everything?
3)Figure out what parts NEED replaced and what parts I should replace. T-Stat housing is a no brainer as it wasn't done with the last swap (70 hours ago). I can't find a pre vortec 2BBL intake that looks any better then the one I have. I am hoping that the manifolds and risers were changed last time as they "look" new, oil pan is new - what am I missing here???

4) This is a biggy (for me).... I need to figure out how to install and wire up a low oil pressure shut off switch. since I know the previous owner ran it out of oil (although he still swears he didn't), I know I ran it out once.. and in those split seconds finished the damage the previous owner started - I don't want that to ever happen again. I am also going to paint the motor somehting other than BLACK - so I can hopefully detect an oil leak earlier - I was thinking chevy orange? Thinking about going to an electric fuel pump with oil pressure cutoff? Or just install a second oil pressure switch to the coil?? And yes.. I have an oil pressure gauge that is mounted low on the dash and obscured by the wheel when your driving at 30MPH (before anyone asks why I didn't shut it down before I heard the clacking)

And finally.... I will gladly take any and all tips on how to make this project as painless as possible. I will probably be a bit slow to start since it's still in 90's most days and I have no shade around the boat :-(

TIA
~Ron

 

[Rick Stephens]

Yes, pull the leg first - have to. Not for alignment really but because it is attached directly to the engine.

Disconnect the electrical, the water hose from the transom to the oil cooler, hydraulic hoses from steering, fuel line from filter, and the shifter linkage assembly. Remove the screws holding the motor mounts to boat (or motor mounts to engine - either works) and the two rear motor mount screws on the bell housing.

After having just done a V6 motor pull, where I (wrongly) removed the hose clamps from the short exhaust hoses connecting Y pipe to riser and pulled my V6 while slipping those short rubber hoses off the Y pipe but left them on the engine - I would never ever do it that way again! A Y pipe is big bucks and fragile as can be - loosen the clamps to the hose connecting the riser to the Y pipe and then pull that riser off the manifold and remove it from the Y pipe entirely. That makes certain you won't break a Y pipe pulling the engine.

Do not under any circumstances pull the engine with your chain attached to the pick loop on top of the thermostat. That is only there to assist in doing the alignment. Use the 3/8" threaded holes on the ends of the heads and attach your chain(s) there.

Pull the whole thing as a single unit. Then you can assemble and install the whole thing as one piece.

RIck

 

[Watermann]

We recently pulled a motor out of a boat using a cherry picker that was chained and strapped down in the bed of a pickup (remove the tailgate). Once removed we pulled the coupler and put it on an engine stand and wheeled it into the garage.

It would be easier to paint the bottom of the bilge a lighter color so you can see any oil drops rather than painting the motor and having it start to flake off.

Since you're going to have to remove them anyway, I would remove the exhaust risers and manifolds before pulling the motor.

 

[Volphin]

I second the advice of pulling the manifolds first if space permits on your application. I usually just run the hoist chain to a few bolts where the manifold bolts on? or the head. Another trick is to support the trailer with a floor jack, remove the wheels, and lower it onto some 2x4s. That usually gives enough clearance on most runabouts to hoist the engine from the transom. Be aware that you may need to cradle the engine above the bilge and readjust the chain if the picker doesn't have enough lift.

 

[moparron]

I've got space to pull manifolds - so no worries with that.
Thanks for the re-position advice - That would be good to be prepared for.
Unfortunately this weekend will be spend making sure that my family and neighbors are prepared for this silly storm (Erika).

 

[Scott Danforth]

You're overthinking Erika. Unless the winds pick up significantly, its just going to rain...... Like that hasn't happened here in Florida the last few weeks.

Pull the drive, pull the Mani's, disconnect electrical and fuel. Unbolt mounts and pull motor. 1-2 hours max

 

[HT32BSX115]

4) This is a biggy (for me).... I need to figure out how to install and wire up a low oil pressure shut off switch.
~Ron

Howdy,

Well, the easiest way would be to install an oil pressure switch that is normally closed when there's pressure.

Then use that switch with a small relay that would interrupt power to your coil when the oil pressure drops below 3 psi etc.

Most oil press switches are grounded through the block so they just connect their only (1) connection to ground when the pressure exceeds some minimum level like 3-5 psi.

You would connect that point to your relay coil and the other connection of the coil to switched 12v power.

You would want the actual switched relay contacts in the power line to the coil (positive)

To give you power during starting, you would need to connect the starter solenoid power directly to the coil so this entire mess is bypassed during cranking. (One would assume that you'd get enough oil pressure during cranking probably but not initially......)


Now having said all the above, I don't think you really need to do this. The oil pump is a mechanical gear or gerotor type pump. They don't usually fall. Just make sure all the leak points are taken care of and call it good.

Newer Mercruiser engines have a simple alarm system that use switches that "ground" when the oil pressure goes below a certain pressure (3-5psi), the temp exceeds a certain temp or the drive lube monitor goes below a certain level.

The connections are all connected together and go to a buzzer that has switched 12vdc connected to it. When any one (or more) switches activates, it provides the ground to the buzzer and it sounds. When you start the engine, it buzzes until the oil pressure exceeds activation level.(almost immediately)


You could use one of these switches with a relay too but you would connect the coil power to the contacts that are normally CLOSED. (Assuming it has them) If the oil pressure dropped to zero for some reason, the contacts that are normally closed would be opened and the engine would quit.

I'm posting this from an IPAD. Looks like the paragraph breaks aren't working......


Cheers, Rick

 

[bruceb58]

I personally would not put an oil pressure switch on the ignition. Starting will be a huge issue.

I would instead connect an oil pressure switch to a warning beeper.

Best thing is just check your oil level regularly like you were supposed to be doing.

 

[sub2010ss]

I found a shop that charged me 20 to hook on and remove my 305. I was too impatient to set up a time to have the new 350 put back in so I used a cherry picker with a 6' extension. I wouldn't recommend this as it's extremely dangerous but it can be done.

 

[moparron]

You're overthinking Erika. Unless the winds pick up significantly, its just going to rain...... Like that hasn't happened here in Florida the last few weeks.

Notice.. I called it a silly storm. I was not - am not - concerned with Erika. BUT folks like my 92 year old neighbors, my mother, my aunt, etc... wanted to be prepared - just in case. It's been 10 years, and the media has been blowing this wayyyyy out of whack so I do what I need to do to keep them all happy and comfortable. If that's getting there shutters pulled out of the back of sheds, cleaning gutters, moving plants around for folks - so be it.

As for checking the oil - I do. but with an unknown leak - I had not expected all my oil to get pumped into the bilge. An Alarm might be a better idea versus all the relays and such to create a cut-off. I still have time to think this all through.

I have a few weeks before the motor comes in - so I still have time to get everything out. I am hoping that my engine hoist will be sufficient - but again I have a few weeks to worry about it still