'69 evinrude 25hp lower unit

[Cscornelius]

New member here so please take it easy lol. I have aquired a 1969 evinrude 25hp sportster. She wouldn't run when I got it and had a buddy clean the carb. While he had it he remembered he had an old Johnson on the shelf that had electric start. He robbed parts of his old one to convert mine, but that's irrelevant to my problem. I went to change the lower unit oil today and when I pulled the drain screw out all I got was milky water...boo!!! My question is how hard is it to replace the seals? And where is a good place to get parts?

 

[bonz_d]

Those seals are still available thru BRP dealers and I believe also here thru the iboats store. Not too difficult and I do also believe there is a youtube vid available for that.

BTW Welcome aboard the forum!

 

[racerone]

Take it apart to inspect gears / bearings before getting a seal kit !

 

[bonz_d]

Good advice racerone.

 

[Cscornelius]

So the difficulty is what on a scale of 1-10? My cousin has changed his (on a bigger, newer motor) and says it's a p.i.t.a.

 

[racerone]

Simple straight forward nuts and bolts work.---Nothing to it.

 

[Cscornelius]

No special tools?

 

[Sascwatch]

No special tools required, I'll be doing the lower unit on my 69 25 evinrude Sunday.

Dealer gave me a Sierra part number 18-2684 for the seal kit, looks like it's meant for several different lower units as there is 2 larger o-rings and 4 metal seals. We'll see once it's apart I guess.

 

[Cscornelius]

Keep me updated

 

[Sascwatch]

That part number is good, you will have left over seals tho as it seems like it was made for a couple different bottom ends.

I ended replacing the main spaghetti seal, the o-ring on the aluminum bearing carrier, and drive shaft seal. New nylon washers and o-ring on the bolt that holds the shifting fork. The shift rod seal is a bit harder to change so I didn't do it.

Watched a YouTube video and you have to tap the brass plug on the shift Rod seal and use a bolt to extract it. It's just an o-ring under neath and mine felt and looked good.

 

[racerone]

The shift rod o-ring is a major leak point.-----There is a special tool to knock the bushing out.-Or as you have seen you tap it with about 3 threads to pull it out.---Or I have replaced the o-ring without removing the bushing.---Note ---most folks will say that the latter method can not be done !!

 

[bonz_d]

-Or I have replaced the o-ring without removing the bushing.---Note ---most folks will say that the latter method can not be done !!

racer I think next time you do one you should video it for youtube, think it would be a smashing hit!

 

[racerone]

No----I just use " old time skills "--Skills that go way beyond changing sparkplugs.---I do not carry a cellphone and do not want to learn about posting stuff on U-tube either.

 

[Cscornelius]

So what kind of tools did it take and how long? Anyone know what size tap for that bushing?

 

[bonz_d]

No----I just use " old time skills "--Skills that go way beyond changing sparkplugs.---I do not carry a cellphone and do not want to learn about posting stuff on U-tube either.

I don't own a cell phone either so I guess I can relate. No facebook or tweets either!

 

[racerone]

5/16-NC is what I use.-Also have new bushings on hand too.

 

[Sascwatch]

If I remember correctly I used a flat head screw driver, Philips head screw drivers (one bigger and a normal sized one), couple sockets, and a socket wrench. A scraper to remover old gasket material and a sanding block to clean up the surfaces aswell.

Hardest part is removing the old seals, I used several tools including a hammer and flat head screw drivers.

You will also need some liquid gasket to re seal the lower unit, I used permatex ultra black.

 

[Cscornelius]

Thx bud. I may get to doing mine soon

 

[Cscornelius]

What did the seal kit cost?

 

[Sascwatch]

I bought mine on Amazon dot ca, $24cad so probably less than $20 in the USA.