1967 Evinrude 18 HP, Flywheel clicks and hard spot when twisting the tiller handle?

[FirstRealBoat]

It's me again, with this same motor as before, 18HP Evinrude 1967.

I just put new coils, condensers and points in. Along with a new water impeller and fresh LU oil. So I was ready to test and hope to get out on the lake soon, well maybe not.

This is the issue, I will explain it best I can. Pictures won't help with this, unless I need to take Flywheel off again then I can show you all the top.

When spinning the flywheel I can feel resistance only on half the spin. I figured it was the magnet that was giving me resistance, not that the top is back together and I started the motor I am not so sure. The motor will run, but takes 5-10 pulls to get it to start, then I have to have it idled higher than normal to keep it running. If I lower the idle, I can hear and see the brass fin on the distributor jump backwards and then I hear the click. Like there is something getting hung up. I looked under the flywheel and can't see any new damage. I have the coils set flush with the blocks that it sits on.

When twisting the tiller handle, when flywheel is on one side. There is little to no resistance, once the flywheel moves around 180 degrees. There is noticeable resistance and a noticeable pop or pop off point is felt.

What am I missing?

Thanks for looking

 

[racerone]

To me it sounds like the flywheel is rubbing on the coils.----Perhaps the bushing on the magplate is loose.------Move coils inward a wee bit and test again.

 

[FirstRealBoat]

To me it sounds like the flywheel is rubbing on the coils.----Perhaps the bushing on the magplate is loose.------Move coils inward a wee bit and test again.

I have the coils pushed in as far as they will go. I have take then flywheel off three or four times, put it on spin the motor and still has a spot that is rough so to speak. While spinning the flywheel by hand, the brass fin actually moves backwards. I can't push the coils an farther in......:facepalm:

 

[racerone]

Well, I have worked on these motors since about 1968 and have a few of them too.----But since I can not see , hear or feel your motor I cannot help on it.

 

[FirstRealBoat]

Well, I have worked on these motors since about 1968 and have a few of them too.----But since I can not see , hear or feel your motor I cannot help on it.

Where is the bushing? Is it on the flywheel or is on the shaft the flywheel sits on?

 

[F_R]

Your description says the magnets are touching the coil's laminated core. If you have them set properly on the armature plate, there are a couple of other possibilities. Probably too much slop & wobble in the plate. That can be a broken hub in the plate, or wear in the mounting parts, or retaining ring upside down. It goes flat side up. You don't want to hear the second possibility: Loose main bearings in the powerhead. You should not be able to move the flywheel fore and aft more than a microscopic bit. If that is the problem, it would also account for your hard starting.

 

[FirstRealBoat]

Probably too much slop & wobble in the plate. That can be a broken hub in the plate, or wear in the mounting parts, or retaining ring upside down. It goes flat side up.

Are you talking about the plate that the coil and all the parts under the flywheel mounts to?

 

[FirstRealBoat]

You don't want to hear the second possibility: Loose main bearings in the powerhead. You should not be able to move the flywheel fore and aft more than a microscopic bit. If that is the problem, it would also account for your hard starting.

How do I test this? Just grab the flywheel and try to wiggle it fore and aft?

With the manual start, pull cord cage taken off?

Thanks

 

[FirstRealBoat]

Just want to add, I have the original Service manual and an online digital service manual for this outboard. Both suck, the details are lacking and the troubleshooting and explanations that are giving are not worth the money I paid for the books. I figured the original service manual would be a nice thing to have, but it doesn't really have the details I am use to with other service manuals that I have used old and new included.

 

[F_R]

Yes, the plate that all the ignition parts are mounted on. It should not move side to side, or have excessive wobble up and down. And yes, see if you can move the flywheel fore and aft. Probably easier if you remove the recoil starter to get it out of the way. I didn't mention the possibility of the coils not being drilled correctly. But I've never seen that happen.

I have spouted off about the service manuals lots of times. The fact is, they were written for the dealer's service shop where (hopefully) the guy reading it has a basic knowledge of what he is doing and why. Actually in my opinion if he needs the stuff the book contains, he isn't qualified for the job. With the exception of the specifications, etc.

 

[FirstRealBoat]

I am making a youtube channel now and uploading videos that I have made of the motor running and the hard spot I am speaking of. Once I have them uploaded, maybe it will be a bit more clear what issues I am having with this outboard.....


Thanks

 

[FirstRealBoat]

This is the video of the hard spot.

This is the motor running really rough.

 

[racerone]

Fairly obvious from video # 1 that something is rubbing on the flywheel.------Was flywheel key replaced and if so with what ?----What kind of puller was used on the flywheel ?

 

[FirstRealBoat]

Fairly obvious from video # 1 that something is rubbing on the flywheel.------Was flywheel key replaced and if so with what ?

I didn't replace it, it looks to be what is in the expanded views that I have seen. How do I remove it to inspect it? I can order a new one from online if needed.

What concerns me is the rough running? Now I am worried I have a motor with good compression but bad parts...

 

[FirstRealBoat]

Fairly obvious from video # 1 that something is rubbing on the flywheel.------Was flywheel key replaced and if so with what ?----What kind of puller was used on the flywheel ?

I used the three hole puller. I had to go get longer screws to fit my flywheel, but just screwed it down to top of flywheel and then tightened the center screw, with a very light tape with a rubber mallet it broke free enough that I could take it off by hand.

Like I posted about the Service manuals, nothing was addressed about removing flywheel other than using the tool that I have. Hope I didn't warp it or mess it up, how do I check it?

 

[F_R]

You used the correct method. The reason the question was asked is that some people use a puller that grabs the outside rim of the flywheel, which bends or breaks it. If bent, it may rub on the coils. Consider somebody may have messed it up before you came along?

Hm.m.m, not sure about the click. The rough running is a lean sneeze, caused by fuel/air mixture being too lean. That can be a carburetor problem, or slow speed needle set too lean, or air getting into crankcase (um, I believe I suggested main bearings loose--which would leak air too).

 

[FirstRealBoat]

You used the correct method. The reason the question was asked is that some people use a puller that grabs the outside rim of the flywheel, which bends or breaks it. If bent, it may rub on the coils. Consider somebody may have messed it up before you came along?

Hm.m.m, not sure about the click. The rough running is a lean sneeze, caused by fuel/air mixture being too lean. That can be a carburetor problem, or slow speed needle set too lean, or air getting into crankcase (um, I believe I suggested main bearings loose--which would leak air too).

I'm going to hope for the best. Going to order a carb rebuild kit and start from there. I didn't take this carb apart. Just sprayed it then put it back on and wanted to test the motor before spending more on it.

On a good note, I did get the flywheel to stop rubbing. I needed to take a break and look at it with fresh eyes. There was just a little corner of the coil that was hitting, loosened and pushed all the way back and now we are good.

Thanks again for the post and replies.

This site truly is a wonderful place to learn and re-learn stuff!

 

[AlTn]

doubt you damaged the f/w at all...the ring under the armature plate that the 4 phillips head screws screw into...it's tapered...is it installed with the large end of its taper as the base ?

 

[FirstRealBoat]

doubt you damaged the f/w at all...the ring under the armature plate that the 4 phillips head screws screw into...it's tapered...is it installed with the large end of its taper as the base ?

I did notice that the base has a bit of wobble. Nothing major that I can see.

Just ordered carb kit from here and will see what It does for me when I get it on Friday. Hope this works, I would love to go fishing while the kids are at Grannies! Me time on the water, 16' jon boat with two kids under 8, that's not easy, fun, but not easy.

Thanks

 

[AlTn]

lol..understand...patience is an acquired trait