Blown Head Gasket?

Acton

Petty Officer 3rd Class
Joined
Jan 15, 2015
Messages
77
Alright so I picked up a 1978 9.9 HP evinrude this past winter and when I checked it it had 100 PSI on the top cylinder and 97 on the bottom. Ran fine in a barrel. Took it out in april and it overheated, but didn't sieze up. Checked the combustion chambers and I didn't see any scoring. Rechecked the PSI it was 75 on both cylinders. Took it to a backyard mechanic since no regular mechanics in the area will work on anything older then 10 years old. He thinks 75 PSI is fine for this older motor but after getting a few second opinions I disagree. The motor runs fine in a barrel, but I don't think I'll get the horsepower I'm looking for out of it, which was why I bought it in the first place. He installed a new water pump, cleaned the carb and put a new kit in, and replaced the powerpack. He also found an issue with a rubber gromet somewhere along where the lower unit connects to the powerhead that was obstructing water flow. . . The thing starts but he thinks replacing the head gasket would be a waste of money. . . . The motor also didn't have a thermostat and he claims that I don't need it, but I've found information saying otherwise on leeroys ramblings. He thinks 75 PSI for the year is fine, and that since I've got equal PSI on both cylinders I'm fine. . . This guy is an old timer and has a lot more experience working on these motors then I do, I respect him so I didn't argue with him. He doesn't like to hear what other people say because he's the one doing the work so I can understand where he's coming from. . . . I really feel like he's cutting corners though with the thermostat and the compression issue. So I ended up paying him $240 for the work he did do, so I'll have to throw on a new head gasket myself and see what happens. . .

Alright, so I guess I'll check to see if the head needs to be resurfaced and throw on a new head gasket after that. I found some information online that says I need to remove the whole powerhead to resurface it. . . is that really the case? If so then this project isn't something I can handle then. . . The actual concept of resurfacing the head doesn't seem to bad though. I figure I can just use some grit wet sandpaper on top of a flat piece of glass. From what I've read I'm supposed to sand in a figure 8 motion until there are no gaps exceeding 0.003? Do I really need to check for warpage or can I just throw on the new head gasket and recheck the compression? What PSI should the bolts on the head be torqued too, and in what order do I do put the bolts back on? I think this is a job I might be able to handle if I don't have to actually take the whole powerhead off. . . .. The motor isn't seized and it still runs, there's no scoring in the combustion chambers. I haven't been able to take it out on the water though so I don't know what it's going to be like running under load, and what kind of speed I'm going to get out of the thing. . . Replacing the head gasket and checking to see if it needs to be resurfaced can't hurt though, I don't have a torque wrench though guess I'll just need to rent one. . . .

Here are some pictures of the what I'm looking at. . . I took the cylinder head off in late april right after the heating issue.
 
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ondarvr

Supreme Mariner
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Apr 6, 2005
Messages
11,527
Compression gauge readings can can vary a great deal, so unless the same gauge was used the difference means nothing, I'm not saying the head gasket is good, only that the difference between the two gauges may mean nothing. You can change the head gasket on that motor easily, I think I paid $9.00 for my last one. If you think it needs to be changed just do it. To resurface the block you need to remove the power head, to resurface the head you just take it off, it may not need it done though.
 

Acton

Petty Officer 3rd Class
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Jan 15, 2015
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Alright. I did check the compression with the same gauge (my buddies gauge) in april and PSI was high 60s on both cylinders, this was the same gauge that we originally used in the beginning to get the readings of 100 and 97 PSI. The guy I took it to got 75 PSI on both cylinders so I thought maybe I did it wrong. . .

Here are some pictures I took in april.

I found this video on youtube of a guy resurfacing the cylinder head and putting on a new gasket. It's a 15 HP yamaha, the same principles apply here right?

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lCH7Qf3cWwU
 

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emckelvy

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Jan 16, 2004
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I found this video on youtube of a guy resurfacing the cylinder head and putting on a new gasket. It's a 15 HP yamaha, the same principles apply here right? https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lCH7Qf3cWwU

Yup. Just surface it on a piece of glass laid flat on the workbench. Work the head until it's flat. As you're sanding the head, you'll be able to see any high or low spots. When all the low spots are gone, stop! That's enough metal removed.

You should be able to get the head off without pulling the powerhead. As I recall, you'll have to leave some of the bottom bolts in place after you've unscrewed them, since there is no room to get them in once the head is installed.

Here's an online service manual you may find useful for torques and other prodedures:

http://www.boatinfo.no/lib/evinrude/manuals/1971-1989johnsonevinrude.html#/0

HTH..............ed
 

Acton

Petty Officer 3rd Class
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Okay so this is what I found.

I'm going to torque each bolt on at 144 - 168 in lbs, and do I put the bolts back on in this order? I know it's important to do this stuff right. Just like with replacing a spare tire you have to put the bolts back on in a certain order or it's not going to go on right. .

Found some good stuff in that manual on how to torque the bolts back on! Apparently your supposed to torque each pair of bolts in 3 rounds, first to 1/2 the torque value, then to 3/4ths, then to the specifications. It's on page 87 for anyone who might see this in the future. . . .
 

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AlTn

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Mar 9, 2010
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2,813
216 - 240 in/lbs on the head screws...sequence shown and 3 stages...as emckelvy states clearance issues with lower 2 screw...remove the water cover and clean that passage < may have to replace that gasket as well >...clean any build up around the water jackets for the cylinders...you may want to replace the thermostat and seal at this time too...reinstalling..if you find you had to take the motor cover latch off to get the head off, when you reinstall the latch you may find that a screw driver blade is necessary to pop the tach screw back through as it's a close fit...those 2 lower head screws are gonna have to be a "by feel" torque setting as there's no clearance for a torque wrench and socket as I recall
 

Acton

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Jan 15, 2015
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Alright so I know how to resurface the cylinder head on a piece of glass with sand paper but what about the other mating surface? Im refering to the first picture with the cylinders. It didnt show in the youtube video. Also where can I buy plate glass from? I figured lowes or home depot would have some. Can I get away with a 2x2 piece of replacement glass from lowes? I gotta get this done by Saturday, headed away for a 8 day camping trip....
 

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OptsyEagle

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Sep 13, 2006
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Just find a really flat surface. Check the flat surface with a straight edge ruler or something and if it is flatter then the cylinder head, just use it. I think I have used a nice flat piece of MFD board wood. Another time I had a portable dishwasher that had a very flat top and I used that. Again, a nice figure 8 pattern until it is all shinny. Don't worry about resurfacing the block. 99% of any warpage will happen on the cylinder head. Just clean off the old gasket really well and torque that resurfaced head down in the sequence shown and you should be good to go.
 
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