1958 Evinrude Fastwin 18hp Restoration Project - Need Your Help

pro-crastinator

Chief Petty Officer
Joined
Dec 12, 2013
Messages
453
Fine looking motor. Great project. I know you are/will continue to have fun with it.
Edit your location on the info page. People are wondering where in SC you are located.
You never know what kind of help is nearby. (we got a place in Walhalla)
best o luck


 

Yanibm1

Seaman Apprentice
Joined
Jun 1, 2015
Messages
38
Got all the parts ordered and working on the motor a little here and there as they come. I'm having to piece together basically the whole motor with ordered parts but it's been a great learning experience so far and cheaper than buying a motor locally. Here's some pictures of a little progress:

Got the powerhead assembled with the intake manifold from the old powerhead since the new one broke in transit.



A lot of crud:


So used a bit of a gasket scraper:



Cleaned right up.
Hope to get this thing running by the end of next week.

I'm also going to convert to a fuel pump and am planning on taping the intake port here with 1/8 NPT since the little hole there measures 11/32" which I think will work for that size tap.



I read this is the best place to do it and works better than capping one of the intake reed valve ports, although some say it works fine.
 

Yanibm1

Seaman Apprentice
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Jun 1, 2015
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38
Some exciting progress tonight:











One question though: the armature support plate ? is it a self centering mechanism or do I somehow have to ensure it is perfectly centered before putting on the armature with the ignition components on top?
 

Yanibm1

Seaman Apprentice
Joined
Jun 1, 2015
Messages
38
Tapped the intake port - the opening was 1/8" NPT and I used an 11/32 drill to match the opening all the way through, just I case someone else comes across this:





Attached a great looking lower unit that came with a new-looking driveshaft along with a propellor. I'll have to paint it but it came out being a much better deal than piecing together the parts I needed for the lower unit:



Also painted some old metal fuel cans. It was the first time I used an HVLP I got for sale at harbor freight so the paint quality is ok but turned out great in a few places. It's just a fuel tank so I'm not too worried about it. Used Valspar hardener along with Rustoleum "safety red" oil based enamel:



Today I hope to move on to the ignition and the flywheel rope starter.
 

Yanibm1

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Jun 1, 2015
Messages
38
I can't find find anywhere in the manual which coil is designated for which cylinder? Could someone please clarify?
 

Yanibm1

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Jun 1, 2015
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Ok thanks! Is there any way to verify or check ? some designation or mark or anything? It seems strange I can't find anything listed in the manual about it.
 

racerone

Supreme Mariner
Joined
Dec 28, 2013
Messages
36,043
The magneto you are working on was first used in about 1950.-Was used on motors from 1-1/2 hp to 40 hp untill about 1986 or later.-I have worked on more than a few of them.-So you yourself need to satisfy and see which set of points opens when you put top piston to TDC.
 
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Yanibm1

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Jun 1, 2015
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38
Ok so I've hit a snag and need some help. I have figured out the corresponding coils to cylinders and and pretty sure I have set the points correctly. I'm not getting spark however and upon checking for continuity between the spark plug boot to the corresponding coil, I get continuity on both of the coil's grounds for ONE spark plug boot. Meaning, when I attach aead to the bottom spark plug boot I get a continuity reading on the bottom coil's ground wire that sits on top and I get continuity on the top cylinder's ground. Does this indicate I have a short somewhere? But on second thought both coils would technically share a ground I guess so maybe that doesn't indicate an issue. Could someone guide me through diagnosing this issue please??

Further, I was able to get a spark once or twice but in about 10-15 pulls and no spark the rest of the time.
 

AlTn

Commander
Joined
Mar 9, 2010
Messages
2,813
beginning of the forums...highlighted in yellow is the Sticky..Top Secret Files..scroll down to Universal Magneto Troubleshooting...lot of info is given that will help your understanding I think
 

Yanibm1

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Jun 1, 2015
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Ok thanks, I'll check that out tonight and hopefully figure out what's going on.
 

Yanibm1

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Jun 1, 2015
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I've read through the sticky, watched a few videos and read some articles but seem to have done everything as stated. I set the points by aligning the flywheel mark in between the two vertical lines on the magneto, making sure the points opened then between the two lines. I did this by setting aligning the mark, lifting the flywheel off, and turning the adjustment screw until there was no continuity between the points at that exact instant. I need some more advanced help with what may be going wrong. The coils do not seem to be touching the flywheel and I can't seem to locate a short anywhere. What could be wrong?
 

AlTn

Commander
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Mar 9, 2010
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2,813
not sure I understand what you mean by "aligning mark on the flywheel"? you may be using a point setting method which requires a " timing fixture" ( F_R makes these btw )...if no timing fixture...with both crankshaft cam and points installed...sparkplugs removed...cw rotation of the crankshaft...bring the cam to a position so the rubbing block of the movable points is at the highest point on the cam lobe (the o in TOP ,if this is on your cam } use a feeler gauge and adjust the points to .020 then tighten the anchor screw...rotate the crankshaft 180 degrees and set the other set of points the same way....put the flywheel back on < no need to torque it down yet > replace starter, plugs out...do you have a 1/4" spark now?..
 

Yanibm1

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Jun 1, 2015
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Ok I readjusted the points and seem to have consistent spark from both plugs. The engine however is making no indication of wanting to start, not even a little growl. Also the points seem just a hair misaligned. Do they need to be perfectly square? If so how do I adjust for that?

Also there seems to fuel flowing through the motor since the water has some oil/fuel swirling through it.
 

AlTn

Commander
Joined
Mar 9, 2010
Messages
2,813
bend the stationary side of the points so that have a flush contact with each other..forget the start position indicator...in neutral ,advance the throttle to the stop..full choke...motor should attempt to fire in 4 or so pulls...if and when it does, go to 1/2 choke and it should fire and run...after a few seconds, push the choke off completely... make certain you have water coming from the exhaust relief ports on the rear of the exhaust housing...adjust the idle as best you can and let it run for a while ..pay attention to the head and block temps...
 

Yanibm1

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Jun 1, 2015
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38
Ok I was able to crank it finally after attaching my drill to the crankshaft with a socket and simulating an electric start, without the choke engaged. It seems I have no water from the exhaust though so I'll open up the impeller housing and see what going on there. I'll keep you posted and thanks so much for the help guys!! I hope I can get it cranked and running for this weekend.
 

Yanibm1

Seaman Apprentice
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Jun 1, 2015
Messages
38
It's cranking now and there's water flowing from the exhaust! However, it seems like it idling a little rough and coughs and tries to die. I may need to re look the carb as there is some fuel leaking from the high speed jet. I would appreciate any other suggestions as well.
 

geoffwga1

Petty Officer 1st Class
Joined
Aug 8, 2010
Messages
394
What do you mean by :high speed jet", that is inside the float bowl and you couldn't see it.If you mean the nut at the bottom of the float bowl you need a new washer or it needs tightening.
 
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