Evinrude Mate 2hp 2202m high end issues

Odessious

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May 24, 2015
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I recently purchased an old Evinrude Mate 2 hp 2202m. It is in very nice condition. The guy I bought it from started it for me in a barrel. It would only run at full throttle and choked, but the engine itself sounded healthy so I bought it figuring a good cleaning and rebuild kit would do the trick, which it did. I also put the right plug in and set the plug gap properly. I can tune and use the low end, but when I open up the top end it starts to pick up for a couple seconds then boggs way down and will run that way until the high jet is opened too far, the choke is touched, or you try turning it back to the the slow side, they all cause it to die. Everything under the flywheel looks to be in very clean condition, but have a Nova II ordered just because I hate points. The impeller is still soft and kicks water fine so I don't think it is heat related. Could it maybe be an issue with the reeds? I'm just glad I got it fairly cheap. lol
 

twocyclemania

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I can't figure the relationship you describe with the high speed jet and the choke (being touched). I looked at my two similar motors and the choke lever and the high speed jet are a space away. I know you said you rebuilt the carb but if I had a motor running as yours is I'd first suspect the carburetor jet packings. Did you replace them (should be two on each jet). Sounds like it's not getting enough fuel when you open it up.
 

Odessious

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image_221546.jpg When it should be running at full throttle but is bogged down, if you pull the choke out at all, it just dies. If you turn it down to where it should be running off the slow side of the carb it dies, but runs at the slow side just fine until you open it to where it needs the high side. The tank line seems to gravity feed just fine, and I just can't imagine that the carb would demand any more fuel than what comes out. I attached a pic of the carb kit I used. I found the home for everything according to the diagram, not sure what the technical name is on everything yet. And I'm new to this and I hope this isn't a stupid question but is exhaust suppose to only vent from the 4 holes, or from those slots where the lower unit bolts on as well?
 

twocyclemania

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As for the exhaust: Exhaust out the holes is normal. You'll probably have a wet spray along with the exhaust. As long as the head is not overheating you're okay. I can't think of much more for the running but do you have the float in the correction position; not upside down? It appears that it's not getting enough fuel. The only thing I can think of at this point is opening the high speed jet very gradually and see if performance improves. Hopefully someone else has some suggestions beyond mine.
 

twocyclemania

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Just an afterthought. Those motors had metal tanks and tended to rust inside. Could be blocking flow from the tank and also add particles to the carb. There should be a filter inside the tank. I added a small in-line filter in my motors just to be on the safe side and on one I coated the tank with a tank sealer. Also, I found that if the tank on gravity flow motors has just a little bit of gas you may not get adequate flow. Make sure it has adequate fuel.
 

Odessious

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I have the engine pulled apart on the dining room table.Glad the wife doesn't mind the smell of gasoline. lol. The tank believe it or not is very clean and has no rust. I drained the tank and pulled the pitcock and the screen and valve are clean as well. I pulled the retainer clip off of the gas cap breather screw and made sure it was clean, not sure what kind of air flow it is suppose to have. I pulled the carb off and popped it open, everything seems to be in the right place. Checked that new tap in plug on the carb for air leaks and it seems tight. I pulled off the intake to look at the reeds and one side doesn't seem to quite be sealing tight. It isn't resting flush like the other side, but I don't know if it would be enough to matter. Inside of the block walls is redish brown, but crank shaft and piston rod are oily, clean, and in great shape.
 

Odessious

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Upon further inspection, these stupid packing washers for the needle adjustments might be the issue. think they may have been causing the needle screw to bind and not fully seat. Is it possible to just upgrade these with rubber o-rings?
 

twocyclemania

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Packing washers should not cause the needle screw to bind. The needle screw has to be opened; start out (seat gently and than back off) with 3/4 turn out for the high speed and 1 1/4 turn for the low speed and adjust from there. To make it easier to 'feel' where the needle is and when it seats you need to back off on the nut that tightens the packings. Once you have it adjusted and running as it should you can tighten the nuts a little more (gently please). You do not need rubber o-rings. Also try running the motor with the gas cap loose or off just in case the top vent is plugged. As for the reeds I would ask as a separate question and get someone (other than me) who really knows the deal with the reeds.
 

twocyclemania

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Thought of one more thing. This motor is pretty old and I'm wondering about the coil. A bad coil on occasion will let you start and than it will crap out when under load. Try to get an idea (what color is it) of how old the coil is. If it's original I'd replace it. A bad coil can mimic many problems. They're cheap ($20) and readily available.
 

Odessious

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The insulated part of the coil is brown plastic, and the metal plate pack is green. There is a tad of rust on the bottom corners, but other than that, it is extremely clean. It very may well be the original but maybe its newer than I think. I adjusted and cleaned the points and am getting a nice strong spark when I spin the flywheel with a ratchet. I took fishing line and ran it between the reeds and intake to make sure there isn't something compromising the seal. I blew out the carb again just to assure it is clean and clear. I removed the 2 packing washers on each jet and put in rubber o-rings, and it is a must-do in my opinion. The needles are nice and tight, but they adjust way smoother now. I also inspected the gear box and was very happy to see it had no water contamination. The fluid needed to be changed badly. It was black and thinner than I expected, I filled it up with 80-90, which I'm assuming is the correct thing to use. I'll let you know what happens, but if it doesn't work, I'm done until my ignition module shows up. lol.
 

Odessious

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I ended up flipping the reeds just to be on the safe side and they appear to seal better now. I started it, the low side seems to run well, but the high side still has issues. It seems to be getting too much fuel now. I adjusted the float a little to make it shut off sooner but it had no effect. I closed off the fuel supply most of the way and it ran up to full throttle. Am I getting too much fuel "jetting issue" or is my spark not hot enough to fully detonate the fuel at high rpms?
 

twocyclemania

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Not sure of the age of the coil but from what I can see it looks visibly okay. When you shut off the fuel and it started to wind up (as they all do those last few seconds as the fuel runs out - they're is a reason why but it escapes me) I would think that is an indicator that the coil is okay. I doubt if your spark is not hot enough to burn fuel. I'm inclined to think it's something with the carburetor or the adjustments. When you turn the high speed knob do you do it in small increments and allow time for the adjustment to stabilize?
 

Odessious

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Not sure of the age of the coil but from what I can see it looks visibly okay. When you shut off the fuel and it started to wind up (as they all do those last few seconds as the fuel runs out - they're is a reason why but it escapes me) I would think that is an indicator that the coil is okay. I doubt if your spark is not hot enough to burn fuel. I'm inclined to think it's something with the carburetor or the adjustments. When you turn the high speed knob do you do it in small increments and allow time for the adjustment to stabilize?

I've done everything by the book as far as tuning the high and low needles, the low runs just fine but the high side seems to be getting too much fuel. I can find a happy point by almost shutting off the fuel where the top end revs up like it should and runs like that aside from a little surging, but it stalls out when it is turned back past where it switches back to the low end. Not sure what it means, but I just took apart the carb, readjusted the float, and inspected float needle and seat. It seems like it is sealing better "fingers crossed" and I also installed a Nova II internally under the flywheel in a location that should be safe from any thermal issues. I will be testing it tomorrow and we'll see what happens.
 
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rasteele

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Jun 20, 2014
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Check your high speed orifice size, last owner mIght have wallered it out while cleaning. Just went through the same issue
 

Odessious

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Well I just took the carb apart to inspect the jet nozzle, it looks fine, but in doing so I believe I finally did find my issue. In the diagram it appears there is a gasket that seals the bowl to the jet internally "boss ring?", but it was missing from the carb when I bought it, and a new one didn't come with my carb kit. :/ Any idea how thick of a o-ring I would need to make it work? I'd prefer to avoid paying $6 for something I should be able to get at the hardware store for 30 cents. Thank you all for the help! :)
 

rasteele

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The one on mine is about an 1/8 inch thick and the color of cardboard
 
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