1960 super seahorse 40 ??'s

5

53'ElginCT

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May 23, 2015
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My rd 22 won't start, .. I think its a bad float, or fuel pump diaphram or something in the carb... Idk...

But I also don't know where to Start....

My starter motor kinda works if I wack it a bit, or kinda start it turning with the key turned to START but it doesn't get enough energy to turn engine, or even engage with flywheel...

Solenoid is good, battery is good, seems to b getting fuel, spark plugs seem good, ...

However the last owner said it was "bogging down". one day so he docked it, .. took it out the next day , and it picked up where they left off and continued to bog down further... So he took it ashore, fogged the engine and stored it for the winter (5-6 months) till I buy it... O and he was running 50:1 fuel mix for about a total of 25 or less hours of running time... (Entire time he owned it)


Would fuel coming to the surface of the water when I'm trying to pull start it indicate bad diaphram???


.. I know its a lot and scattered, and misspelled . But thanks for reading and any further, along with all previous help...
--Matt
 
B

boobie

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First thing to do is check the compression to see if you have anything to work with.
 
5

53'ElginCT

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May 23, 2015
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fixed the starter, ... Got it running maybe 20 seconds...at the max over two hours of fiddling with the needle valves...

What's next??...

The compression or carb? Or ??

Thanks
 
5

53'ElginCT

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May 23, 2015
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Is there an easy way to check if its the carb? ... It was supposedly just rebuilt less than a year ago
 
5

53'ElginCT

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May 23, 2015
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Ok.. I got it running good for idle and higher speeds , but it cuts out and dies on me in the lower speeds now
 
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Willyclay

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(Carburetor Adjustments - Two Adjustable N/Vs)
(J. Reeves)

Initial settings are: Bottom high speed = seat gently, then open 1 turn out. Top slow speed = seat gently, then open 1-1/2 turns.

Setting the high and low needle valves properly:

NOTE: For engines that DO NOT have a shift selection, obviously there is no NEUTRAL position. Simply lower the rpms to the lowest setting to obtain the low speed needle va /lve adjustment.

(High Speed) Start engine (it will run pretty rough), shift into forward gear, take up to full throttle. In segments of 1/8 turn, wating for the engine to respond between turns, start turning in the bottom high speed needle valve. You'll reach a point whereas the engine will either start to die out or spit back (sounds like a mild backfire). At that point, back out the needle valve 1/4 turn. Within that 1/4 turn, you'll find the smoothest setting.

(Low Speed) Slow the engine down to where it just stays running. Shift into neutral. Again in segments of 1/8 turns, start to turn the top needle valve in. Wait a few seconds for the engine to respond. As you turn the valve in, the rpms will increase. Lower the rpms again to where the engine will just stay running. Eventually you'll hit the point where the engine wants to die out or it will spit back. Again, at that point, back out the valve 1/4 turn. Within that 1/4 turn, you'll find the smoothest slow speed setting.

When you have finished the above adjustments, you will have no reason to move them again unless the carburetor fouls/gums up from sitting, in which case you would be required to remove, clean, and rebuild the carburetor anyway.
 
5

53'ElginCT

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May 23, 2015
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Sooo.. good news and bad news

The good is much better than the bad .. so ill start there

I broke the little kinda white clear ish "idle adjust" screw thingy next to the manual speed controls on the engine accidently...is that the end of the world?


Good news is I got I running good enough to leave my slip and the cove, and brave the CT river today.... I was out for a lil while but....

I couldn't go too much lower than the "start position on the throttle without engine dieing ...

O. And then the old( .. looks like copper ..). Thread connected Throtle cable stripped itself loose, from the movey-backy-forthy-cylinder-thingy that physicaly connects the remotecontrols to the engine an so i couldn't (and still can't) get it to seat again... so I had to limp back to the slip.....

But still a successful day in my book

... Any ideas what to do about any of these problems?

... O and Its still not running "great". .. but I'm taking apart and doing total rehab on carb tommorow to see if it helps....

Matt
 
F

F_R

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No Title

The idle adjust screw that you broke is part number 304573, replaced by 437966. The other moovey-thingy thing that came loose, I assume you mean the cable guide on the end of the control cable? It is held in place by two screws, opposite each other. One screw must be tightened one turn beyond contact with the wire, then the second one tightened. That puts a kink in the wire. However--if the wire wasn't annealed on the end, it will be so hard that it won't kink. If that is the case, come back for instructions on annealing.
 

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53'ElginCT

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Actually everything in the picture there is okay... But the part just before that.... Where the "brass sleave" threads into the cable... That's what stripped... Do I need a whole new cable? ... Its stripped most of the brass sleave male threads and the cables female threads
 
5

53'ElginCT

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May 23, 2015
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Cleaned carb. Had it running really well... But then


I blew a spark plug... And it took thread with it

What do I do
 
W

Willyclay

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Sep 8, 2006
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Look for a used head or cheap donor motor. Also, you can perform a Helicoil repair to the damaged head. Good luck!
 
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W

Willyclay

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It may not have the compression release valves/mechanism but the head and lots of other parts should be compatible. All the early 60's RD/RK/Big Twin/Lark models used the same head gasket, #0307069. Good luck!
 
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