1978 Johnson 35hp fuel problems?

duckmn56

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May 23, 2015
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This is my first time working on a marine motor this size. I have rebuilt many small engines, but am more of a hobbyist.

I have a pull start motor that fires, but one of the cylinders fills up with fuel at the reed valve after the crab. Either simultaneously the carb will end up with fuel coming out of the air inlet. I have to open coke to let it out. The cylinder that fills is on the left when facing the engine from the boat. At least that was the last time I checked. I should note that the boat was on a tilted surface so liquid would flow to that side. Ive replaced the spark plugs and have them set at 0.03, have 50:1 fresh mix. Engine starts and runs when the carb is off and most of the gas is cleared and a small amount sits on both sides.

History

I initially thought it was the carb. I cleaned and rebuild the entire carb float and all. I tried to set the float so it was parallel horizontally with the carb when upside down. I seem to have a more firm bulb. After rebuilding the carb I attempted to start the engine. It fired but stopped running after a few seconds. I realized the choke had slid in after it died. I could not get it restarted as usual with this fuel problem.

I then removed the carb and checked for fuel at the valve, and did not see any. I removed the carb because there was fuel coming out of the inlet as usual. I checked the rebuild and found I forgot the center seal. Put it all back together and I got it to fire but not start. Fuel out of inlet again and wont start. I have not removed the carb a third time since I am trying to not disturb the new seal I put on.

I do have spark but do not know compression. The engine was running during the weekend when it began refusing to start. Had a month old gas in it when we first started it at home. Started without much trouble and ran fine. Took it out fishing and began having problems. Started at the dock, but died shortly after and had a heck of time s tarting it. Once running seemed to be going good. Then it began to die after a few minutes of run time. Would start back up no problem. Figured bad gas but pressed on. Put new gas in with a 50/50 mix old/new. Now it has new gas.

The next day we could not get it to start and the work began. Found a loose bolt when the cover was taken off. Turned out to be from the head cover. There was also exhaust staining on the lower half of the engine. I ended up tightening two loose bolts on the head as well. Looked at the cylinder wall through the spark plug hole. Top cylinder seemed good but had 1 slight score mark. Bottom cylinder where the loose bolt was. Had a lot of carbon built up on the piston head and cylinder wall.

I also replaced a fuel line to the filter because it was cracked and allowed air into the line. Filter was clean. The carb was also relatively clean but the needle had a red seal looking material that was disintegrating. The new needle did not have the same feature. I will check compression tomorrow on both cylinders.
 
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gm280

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Jun 26, 2011
Messages
14,590
:welcome: aboard duckmn56. Great having you join us here on iboats...

Okay let's see if you can understand and help with your engine issues. The over abundance of fuel is the main issue I see. It sounds like your fuel pump diaphragm could have a hole in it and allowing fuel to go straight into the engine thorough that hole in the fuel pump. So I would rebuild that pump first to see if there is a hole in it. They sell fuel pump kits all over the place. If you do find such a hole, that could be your entire problem. Reinstall the rebuild carb and fuel pump and try again... You may be pleasantly surprised to see it running then... JMHO
 

duckmn56

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May 23, 2015
Messages
24
Thanks, I will check the diaphragm for the fuel pump. Originally didn't suspect it.

Sorry read through my post the morning, it's little tough to read. I was pretty frustrated when writing.
 

gm280

Supreme Mariner
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Jun 26, 2011
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14,590
Well should have checked the compression first. 90 and 70..

I still would remove and check the fuel pump. I suspect there will be a crack or hole in the pump diaphragm... Just my opinion...and I have been wrong one other time...this morning as well! :facepalm:
 

nphilbro

Petty Officer 1st Class
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Dec 19, 2011
Messages
304
Don't be surprised to find that if the fuel pump problem fixes most of the problem to see compression start to balance out too. Obviously a good decarb will be in order following that.
 

duckmn56

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May 23, 2015
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Ok checked the fuel pump. Everything looked good. No holes or anything that indicated a leak. Just bought the tester from auto zone lol. Their higher priced model with braided line. Anyway the one they rent out is the lower cost one.

I took the water head cover off bc of a suspected leak. Found a tiny leak at the bottom.

Took head off and do not see obvious gasket leak signs. Noticed some damage to both cylinders. I could feel the worked surface with my fingertip bc the finish is more polished/plowed. Adhesive wear. Could not detect much depth with fingernail. There was a lot of build up on the piston head.

I'll try to upload the pictures. With the pc.

Compression improved slightly after I pumped the bulb up again after checking the fuel pump. 95-100 and 65.
 
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duckmn56

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duckmn56

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May 23, 2015
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I was thinking there may be some broken piston rings. Does anyone know about the wear on the cylinder from the pictures? Would it be worth trying to replace the rings even if they end up not being broken or am I looking at a full rebuild?
 
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