9.9 evinrude wot no power

nphilbro

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Can you take a picture of the carb throat? It's far more likely someone tried to juice the power to a 15hp by replacing the entire carb from another motor than replace the jet. I seem to recall once having to clear out the float bowl pickup tube with a copper wire on an '87 15hp I had.

FWIW: I've got the same motor and it has absolutely been the most reliable kicker I've ever owned. I run it for many hours on end every weekend on the ocean trolling for salmon in the summer and fall. I forgot to winterize it properly this year and it sat outside through the wet Seattle winter and it still started up in 5 or 6 pulls. Keep at it, it's worth the effort.
 

nphilbro

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At least 200 hours a year for the past three years.
 

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racerone

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Not sure about the jet sizes posted in # 36 posting.-Parts book seems to say something entirely different------ # 34 is 0.034" diameter and # 54 is 0.054 " in diameter.
 
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racerone

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Have you pulled plug wires off one at a time to see what the motor does ?
 

alza

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May 22, 2015
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The jet size numbers in listings are confusing. I've been buying my carb kits/parts from marineengine and their listing for my 1986 15 hp Evinrude motor (E15RCDC) says that it takes "ORIFICE, PLUG, NO. 45. 15 MODELS ONLY," but then when you click for more info it says "ID number 56 -- Orifice size 0.056 in." To add to my confusion they give an alternate jet "for select (15hp) models only", which is #54 AND ID number 54 with orifice size 0.054 in. Go figure...

I actually bought both jets but then used only the 0.056" after I found that was the size already in the motor.

In my last posting (#36) the dia of 0.110" given by Leeroy for a 15 hp motor can't be right. It's either 0.056 or 0.054, and it's the 0.056 that has always been and still is in my motor.
 

rasteele

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Jun 20, 2014
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Just got home, sealing the carb did nothing, got the jet out and the smallest but I have in my set is 1/16 which is way too big. I'll go to homer depot tomorrow and get a small set.Thanks for the link Tim. Actually I might look here at west marine and hope they have one, just buy the right one and know it's new
 

rasteele

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There's your pic np. And yes race, I've done drop test. Each plug pulled one at a time, drops down a little, stays running for either plug pulled
 

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rasteele

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I have the jet out but I don't have a small enough drill bit to measure the orifice, smallest I have is 1/16
 

rasteele

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Also, there is a silencer on it, looks like an air breather and restricts some air. Ive been told that it won't run right without it but without it, it revved a little higher, not much though, so, runs better with more air so means to much fuel?
 

rasteele

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Nah, got out my wife's jewellers loupe, can't see it, man, was I hoping I would
 

nphilbro

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What's the part number on the carb body (if legible)? Need to confirm you have the 9.9 carb on a 9.9 motor, with the 9.9 mid section. I have two 1985 15hp I picked up cheap because the owner could never get them to run right, and neither could I. The carbs and stickers were 15hp but that was it. After pulling the heads off I discovered the mid section exhaust was actually from a 9.9. They would run...but ran like crap. It was only after I pulled the powerheads and prepped them for paint that I noticed the freeze plugs said j10. His still had the sticker from the dealer he bought them from (used) for his sailboat.
 

nphilbro

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Looks like the correct air throat size to me. What's the mating surface on the engine side look like? It's a long shot, but if ANY air get in from there it will mess things up in various ways too. Is it completely smooth? With the carb off, you can check the reeds. With a cheap plastic ballpoint pen (ink part removed) your can see if one of the reeds are stuck, gunked up, or "just don't look right." I've never had that problem on a 2 cylinder but it could be a culprit and worth checking out since you've already got the carb off. They are supposed to vaporize the fuel so it burns better.
 

alza

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May 22, 2015
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I guess what your motor should have, per the parts list, and the thread pointed out by Tim, is the orifice plug part number 324025, which is #34 plug at marineengine, which has an 0.034'' dia hole. That's assuming the carb body, etc are really a 9.9, like nphilbro says. An orifice of 0.034" is just a little bigger than 1/32" = 0.03125, in case you have that size drill or wire to check it. Good luck, rasteele.
 

alza

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May 22, 2015
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I still wonder if it's fuel-starved at high rpm, ie, running too lean due to air being sucked thru a leak, as suggested by me in post #28 and implied by Joe Reeves in #15.

What happens if you have the low-speed mixture set just right so that you have a smooth slow idle, then give it more throttle WHILE or JUST AFTER riching up the mixture a lot? Can you get to wot this way (under load, on the water)?

I could get mine to wot this way by turning out (counter clockwise) the mixture knob by a full one-half turn. On your 9.9 carb it would be more like a full turn, or more. Can you get to wot this way? If so, it suggests you could have an air leak somewhere in the carb or fuel lines or fittings. At least that was the problem I had, now fixed (post #28).
 

rasteele

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No,alza, I haven't been able to get full throttle out of it since the first day it did it no matter how much I mess with the idle screw. It only did it once awhile back. A month ago. Since then I haven't had it to wot. Someone said about a communications wire. Did you mean the copper in a tv cable wire, if so, the orifice is probably 1/4 bigger than the copper out of a normal cable
 
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