Converting from 60HP Remote to 40HP Tiller, Thoughts Please?

sfmeyer

Seaman
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May 28, 2012
Messages
53
Thanks for reading.

I own a 1982, 16'4" Sea Nymph by Bass Tracker.

BassTracker.jpg

Originally purchased for $500, I reconstructed the interior and the 60 HP Evinrude outboard had given me a great 6 years before I finally had some catastrophic powerhead damage last year. Finding a replacement powerhead has not been easy, and with so many 34 year old components in place (remote, steering, power trim, shift cables), I'm tired of getting nickle and dimed. I've battled fixing or replacing it.

Evinrude60HP.jpg

I'm looking to simplify things, and have a lead on a 1994 40 HP Evinrude, designed for a Tracker with the long shaft, very hard to find locally, I've not seen one for sale in Arizona ever.

Evinrude40HP1.jpg

Evinrude40HP2.jpg

My questions to you all:

1) Any opinion on the switch from remote steering to tiller steering, or from 60 - 40HP?
I do not care about speeding across the lake behind a steering wheel, I just want to reliably hunt and fish again.

2) The 40HP tiller is oil injected, the first thing I would do (after a new impeller) is bypass the VRO pump and mix my own fuel, thoughts?
The last think I want is to burn up another powerhead, period!

3) The 60 HP and 40 HP outboards both have a long shaft, is it as clean of a swap as I hope?
Both model indicate the same "L" which should be a 20" shaft length, I would assume performance would be spot on.

I also figure I can sell off all of the working parts on my current OB to pay for the tiller (lower unit, power trim which is very rare for this model, props, carbs, remote, starter, etc.)

Any other thoughts are greatly appreciated. Again, my priority is to hunt, fish, and just use the dang boat instead of having it sit on the side of the house. A new 50-60HP outboard with remote and trim etc. is just not an option, especially on a 1982 tracker. Thanks again for reading!

Shea in AZ
 

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bonz_d

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Apr 22, 2008
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My only thought would be is it going to be comfortable enough to sit at the stern and operate with that large raised deck this boat has. Don't know that I'd want to sit and steer with my legs stretched straight out. Otherwise you will see a bit of a performance drop, reduced speed, time to plane, load capability. Should bolt right on.
 

MTboatguy

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Jul 8, 2010
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Why not use the 40 as a remote steer, like you do on your 60, they are not hard to convert, I just did it with my Tohatsu, the brackets from the 60 might even fit the 40 with very little modification.
 

sfmeyer

Seaman
Joined
May 28, 2012
Messages
53
My only thought would be is it going to be comfortable enough to sit at the stern and operate with that large raised deck this boat has. Don't know that I'd want to sit and steer with my legs stretched straight out. Otherwise you will see a bit of a performance drop, reduced speed, time to plane, load capability. Should bolt right on.


I would be able to get my legs inside that back compartment and side right on the side of the raised deck pretty comfortably. The compartment deck is hinged and folds all the way down/flat onto the other side. Open it to drive the boat, close it and fish on the deck once at my destination, that's my thought anyway.

I am prepared for performance decrease and know I will need to shift some batteries and other weight more forward in the boat. It all could work out wonderfully or maybe I have to "make due" with a few things. Thank you for the reply.
 
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sfmeyer

Seaman
Joined
May 28, 2012
Messages
53
Why not use the 40 as a remote steer, like you do on your 60, they are not hard to convert, I just did it with my Tohatsu, the brackets from the 60 might even fit the 40 with very little modification.


Main reason is the power trim. Without it, I wouldn't want to be so far from adjusting the motor up and down. I spend a lot of time in ducky areas that get shallow quick, sometimes unknowingly, as well as cruising the Colorado river at Lees Ferry. I would want to be right there basically, ready to raise it when needed.

Also, the remote is getting old, the steering wheel is getting harder and harder to turn, regrease and lubrication aside, and the shift cables need replacing. Looking to simplify what can go wrong and keep the cost down in doing so.

I really appreciate both of your posts above, part of what I was hoping to hear is your description of how easily things should bolt on in place of each other. Really appreciate those and any other thoughts.
 

MTboatguy

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Jul 8, 2010
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Well as long as you can comfortably drive it by tiller, there should be no problem re powering with the 40, should a simple swap, bolt it on, hook up the fuel tank and pull on the rope, unless it is an electric start, then hook up the battery and turn the key, go fishing. Swapping motors is not a complicated matter at all, I have done it lots of times.

You might be able to adapt your power trim to the 40, I have seen bolt on bracket kits to do that on motors with out the mounts for it. If not, the cheapest I have seen a tilt system for the 60 is about $400 on ebay. That should go a long ways to paying for the new motor.
 
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sfmeyer

Seaman
Joined
May 28, 2012
Messages
53
I bought the 40 HP tiller, it was in great condition. I'm excited to remove the steering column & clutter, and remodel the boat to a more open and useful layout.

I'll post back a picture and the results once everything is swapped. Thanks for the advice fellas.
 

bonz_d

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Apr 22, 2008
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Once you have it on the water and running listen to the engine and see if it sounds like it's reaching full RPM. With that bigger/heavier boat you may need to go down a size on the prop.
 
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