50 hp Johnson driving me crazy

ftallen

Cadet
Joined
Mar 7, 2008
Messages
16
Here's what I have done:
1) removed the automatic oiler and replaced with an older model fuel pump
2) new carb kit in both carbs
3) replaced all gas hoses under the cowling - no leaks
Here's the ongoing problems:
1) Need starting fluid to start almost every time (hot or cold)
2) Now losing power. Need to pump up bulb then it will run fine for a few minutes, then requires pumping again.
 

gm280

Supreme Mariner
Joined
Jun 26, 2011
Messages
14,585
Well it sound like a fuel delivery problem for sure. So I would check everything from the tank itself (proper vented and clean) to the fuel line (replace if old or think it is the problem) to the primer bulb, (replace also not very expensive) to the actual fuel pump. Replace the fuel pump or rebuild it. All those things are relatively cheap and will guarantee you a new totally working fuel system. Then turn your attentions to the choke or priming system on the carb(s). It sounds like they are not working even a little bit... May be a good time for rebuilding the carb(s) also!

And for the record, stop using starter fluid to start your 2 cycle engine. Reason? It starts the engine without fuel/oil mixture, meaning it has no lubrication when starting. It also washes any oils out of the bearings and such with that type chemical which aggravates the lack of oil situation even more. So much needless wear in the engine...not good! A much better thing to use is a little bottle of 50:1 fuel/oil mixture to start it with. Just spray it into the carb like you would the starting fluid. It will work and provide oil protection as well. JMHO!
 

jakedaawg

Rear Admiral
Joined
Jun 26, 2012
Messages
4,275
Baiscs first, compression and spark test. Does sound like you have a fuel pump issue if you also replaced the hose and bulb. Can you borrow a tank and fuel line from a friend? Try that.
 

ftallen

Cadet
Joined
Mar 7, 2008
Messages
16
Thanks for all the advice.
It was either the pump bulb or connectors. I replaced everything from the tank to the motor.
Runs good at WOT now.
Just won't start after I kill it and fish awhile.
Still needs starting fluid to get it going, then it runs fine.
 

jakedaawg

Rear Admiral
Joined
Jun 26, 2012
Messages
4,275
This lack of being able to start without starting fluid is a problem. Engines can get addicted to it, right hand , true story!!!

am guessing you have an issue with (please don't get offended):

1. proper starting technique. Read "how to start my motor " in the FAQ. Its pretty good.
2. Bad choke or primer system. We need model number to help with that.

Continued use of starting fluid will cause irreparable harm to the motor.
 

ftallen

Cadet
Joined
Mar 7, 2008
Messages
16
No offense taken.
I have owned many different outboards in the last 50+ years, so I do know how to start one.
I can hear the "click" of the primer when I push in the key, but I don't know how to test the primer otherwise.
Model number is J50PLEEA
Thank you for the helpful advice.
Allen
 

racerone

Supreme Mariner
Joined
Dec 28, 2013
Messages
36,047
Remove one of the wee hoses from the primer.--Remove it at the carburetor end.---Turn the red lever 90 degrees.-----Prime the bulb.---Does fuel squirt out ?-------Turn red lever back to the run position.------------Push key in while cranking it over.-----Does fuel pulse out of that wee hose ?
 

ftallen

Cadet
Joined
Mar 7, 2008
Messages
16
Thanks Racerone,
No fuel squirt when pressing the choke key in. I hooked the primer up to a remote battery and it squirted out very well.
I understand the OMC control box is a bear to open up and replace the key starter/choke switch and I can't find any instructions on how to do it.
What I plan to do now is buy a button switch and hook it up to the primer remotely, how's that sound?
Appreciate your very sound advice to help me get to this point in solving my problem with my outboard motor.
Allen
 

tblshur

Senior Chief Petty Officer
Joined
Aug 24, 2011
Messages
688
Allan, i think there are a couple of connectors in the primer wire before it gets to the controller they may be corroded, just a thought good luck;)
 

ftallen

Cadet
Joined
Mar 7, 2008
Messages
16
I pried one of those boxes apart a few years ago and crap flew everywhere, something popped out and hit me in the head and I never did find it and don't know what the devil it was. The shifter never did work properly after I finally got it back together.
 

jakedaawg

Rear Admiral
Joined
Jun 26, 2012
Messages
4,275
I suppose it would be possible to isolate the primer circuit and ohm it with out tearing the box apart. so what you need to do: (bear with me, i am thinking while typing)

1. We know we have battery power to switch because engine starts and stops
2. We need to identify and isolate the purple wire. I believe the easiest place to do this will be at the red connector or at the deutch connector if applicable. Depends on the year.
3. Un plug connector. Useing the FAQ at the top of this forum you will find a breakdown of which terminal is the choke circuit wire (purple wire). Also identify and locate the ground terminal.
4. Place one lead of ohm meter (multi-meter set to ohm scale) on the boat side at that terminal you previously identified for the choke/enricener. Place the other lead to the ground terminal in the red plug. Have someone push in on the key, you should have continuity. If not you have a problem in the key switch or the purple wire. If you do have continuity there you have a problem in the purple wire lead to the primer solenoid or a bad solenoid or a bad ground to the solenoid. (In 16 years, while tsking care of over 100 evinscrews ayear, I have only found exactly one bad solenoid. (it was actually on my own boat).
5. As an aside thought. While squeezing the bulb observe the primer solenoid and make sure you do not have fuel leaking from the cap or the schraeder valve.
 

ftallen

Cadet
Joined
Mar 7, 2008
Messages
16
Thanks Jakedaawg,
It was my key switch.
I have it corrected now with a remote starter button hooked up to the solenoid.
Always wondered what the schraeder valve's purpose is on the choke solenoid, it's not like you are going to pump air into it?
 
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